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Will this help you get your build height back (and then some) with the E3D hotend?
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:189393
(I don't know if mashing the hotend tip into the build plate as a Z-probe is going to have any effect on the orifice size over time, but it is an interesting concept that I just stumbled on for the first time today.)
Out of curiosity, have you had any problems with the E3D
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vreihen
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Delta Machines
Feel free to take it for a test drive:
http://www.repetier.com/firmware/v091/
Not promoting one firmware over another, just pointing out that the Repetier web config tool does take your current config file as a base for building a new one.....
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General
Quotebobc
The idea of writing a super new firmware that works for any type of non-cartesian kinematics, and takes advantage of the ARM processors is still a good one I think.
I'd just settle for any electronics board and firmware that labels the steppers A/B/C instead of X/Y/Z for a Delta printer! With both Cartesian and Delta settings in one config file, it gets confusing real quick when you'r
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Delta Machines
Did you try changing the horizontal radius setting? Check for any mechanical bindings in the effector plate rod linkages?
I'm at the exact same stage as you are with my self-designed Delta, and was having similar problems with the pencil getting higher as the effector moved away from the center at a constant Z. I don't have the end stops installed yet, so I am manually setting the carriages at
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Repetier
Quotejzatopa
It would be nice if someone wrote a program that stored your basic printer settings and modified the firmware for you.
Do you mean something like the Repetier 0.91 auto-configuration web tool, where you can upload your last configuration.h file as a base for your new build?????
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General
When I read the above wiki page, I think of it more as a historical reference roadmap for future Delta development than a current to-do list. Marlin and Repetier are two firmware branches that I know of with Delta support included, and there are probably others in this list that are light years ahead of Grbl in terms of feature support (and unfortunately resources consumed):
http://reprap.org/w
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Delta Machines
Here are two threads discussing the CPU impact:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?267,240739,282856#msg-282856
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?267,287460,294457#msg-294457
There is also a picture of Repetier's GLCD main screen in the first thread, which may help you to decide whether the two extra text lines on the GLCD are worth the performance hit. Marlin uses a completely different layou
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vreihen
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RAMPS Electronics
There is a thread on this site from the time that the graphic LCD (12864) was being added to Repetier firmware, and it discusses the performance issues. I believe that they ultimately decided to leave all of the animations off, because the 16Mhz processors were wasting too many CPU cycles with graphics. Feel free to search for the thread.....
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RAMPS Electronics
I waited patiently to see if anyone else had an opinion, and suspect that the silence speaks volumes about the lack of interest in yet another custom extrusion system that has no use outside of a delta printer/CNC/robot. 80/20 already makes a 60-degree extrusion, and I am wondering if it would be cheaper in the long run to buy that and blind rivet some OpenRail to the inside edge of that for the
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
My $0.02 is that the economy of scale will not support mass production at a reasonable price point of an extrusion that is only useful for a DIY delta printer. If it could be used for CNC machines, making cabinets, and store display or office cubicle walls, it would be a different story.
The biggest eyesore to me is that you made no effort to cap the ends of the rectangular cross bars where the
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
From looking at the sample print, my eye is immediately drawn to the top right corner, right where the flat edge ends and the curve begins:
It looks to me like the printer put down a continuous yarn/string winding of CF and sandwiched it between a printed nylon core and printed nylon outer skin, and the spot that I'm seeing is the point where the yarn ended in the winding process. Perhaps the
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General
Quotegmh39
That's awesome! I would totally buy that. I wonder how he prints the CF, since typically it needs to be soaked with some kind of epoxy then vacuum sealed.
In mass production settings, carbon fiber comes in "prepreg" weave, where the manufacturer soaks the material in a special epoxy formulation that doesn't harden until heated in an autoclave (under vacuum) per a specified ramp temp
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General
QuoteCanCakesAlthough the board itself says v1.1, the page on thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4971) is titled "Mechanical Endstop 1.2. And on the board, it says to refer to "wiki.makerbot.com/me1" for instructions. (I think the site doesn't exist anymore, is it down for everyone or just me?)
It's not just you. I tried the Internet WayBack Machine, and it only had one archived copy
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RAMPS Electronics
QuoteCanCakes
Ah. I just found this:
The picture of the green circuit board on a blue background shows VCC, GND, and SIG pins are actually congruent with the FIRST picture that kenwilliams posted.
I think this might be the answer. Thoughts?
I don't know the revision history, but find it interesting that there are V1.0, V1.1, and V1.2 parts out there. The bare green board on the wiki link a
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RAMPS Electronics
I found answers to my questions. In case anyone runs across the "Retry: 1" loop in the future, the cause is that the serial monitor isn't sending line terminators with the commands when you click the send button.
The bigger problem is that the #ifdef structure in ui.h only has the Megatronics 2.0 display/key pins assigned for display type 6, and not also type 11. I am not familiar enough with
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Repetier
Another observation/question - Is your RAMPS card missing the Arduino Mega 2960 processor board?????
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General
Maybe I'm mis-reading it, but the money column appears to be in Euros and not US Dollars. That puts your parts list at least $50 more than the $299 Printrbot Simple kit on Amazon, which is probably the benchmark for lowest cost 3D printer at the moment from what I've seen. (Edit: I see that you did correct the money, but not the column label.)
There are two popular types of "print head" mecha
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General
The endstop end looks correct to me. I'm using a Megatronics 2.0 board and not RAMPS, so I can't comment on the pin locations except to say that the switches are working for me when wired to the pins with the same label on my board.
When you get done with this, can you please also update the RepRap wiki with a bold-texted warning to others about pin #1 being at the bottom of these switches? It
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RAMPS Electronics
Ken,
I looked closer at my endstop board. Pin #1 is at the *bottom* in the orientation of the switch from your sketch above. Sainsmart did print a tiny circle on the PCB near the bottom pin to designate pin #1, which I missed at first expecting to see a "1" somewhere.
When the correct pin numbering scheme is used, the board matches the V1.0 endstop schematics and works when wired as per the
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RAMPS Electronics
QuotemrPrik
Blew up my arduino mega yesterday. bought some sainsmart mech endstops , four pin. Not much online about pin out but i decided from reading around it was 1 VCC 2 + 3 GND 4 SIG. taped back one 'gnd' and stuck the others into my ramps 1.4. did not check with a multimeter first. switch it on - nothing. no led light. I paused, switch in hand. hmm, should I click.. yeah I'm curious. BANG
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RAMPS Electronics
I ran the web configuration tool in newbie mode for firmware 0.91, selecting Megatronics 2.0 with an RRD Graphics LCD and a delta printer config. Since the card isn't hooked up to a printer yet, I left all of the printer measurements and other settings at default.
The resulting firmware compiles clean on Arduino V1.05r2 and uploads without issue to my Megatronics V2.0 clone. The serial monitor
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Repetier
I recently bought the exact same bundle, and it came with zero documentation. I have already popped the +5V on-board power regulator, thanks to one of the two display ribbon cable ends being crimped on backwards and my own stupidity for not checking the stripe on the cable since the connectors were keyed. (Not that I could have identified pin 1 on half of the connectors anyway without silk-scr
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Controllers
Andy,
Since you cherry picked several good ideas from other designs, I'm curious about your opinion on the spherical ball setup used on the SpiderBot effector plate. Instead of 6 spherical magnets, they used only three spherical steel balls, with rods from two neighboring risers both sharing a ball at the effector end. They embedded cylindrical magnets into the rods themselves, and it appears
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Delta Machines
QuoteTheTechnicalNoob
I had the idea to put electrical heatshrink around the bearings. I found one case were a person tried it, they said the issue was that the shrink moved around on the bearing as his shrink wasn't wider than the bearing so the plastic didn't go around the edges of the bearings and didn't holding them in place.
I have a dumb question for my first post on this forum. Instead o
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Delta Machines