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QuoteDavid JIt doesn't help that I am unfamiliar with the way that a Delta printer works - the Prusa i3 is self-evident once you've got the configuration right, but I don't know what to expect from a Delta. For example, if you send a 'home' command, where does the effector go? Down to the print surface, or up to the limit switches? Is there any general information on-line to help me? (not nece
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Delta Machines
Jameco has 24V Mean Well 600W and 750W supplies that run from 120VAC. My SE-600-24 set me back $90, and you can also find used/pull bargains for the SP-750-24 on eBay from time to time.
In any case, I think that you may want to check your math about the maximum capacity of the RAMPS heatbed MOSFET. You should probably be using an external SSR/heat sink to control a large heatbed.....
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Developers
Quotedc42So I have it in mind to design and manufacture a board that mounts on the hot end and does all the hot end temperature control. It would need 2 thick wires for +12V and ground, and about 3 thin wires e.g. for transmit, receive, and signal ground. The main printer electronics would transmit the required temperatures and occasionally thermistor and PID parameters to the board, and the boar
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Delta Machines
This stepper motor cable thread from a few days ago in the general forum may be enlightening:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,489928
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Delta Machines
Mine is set for 6.5mm @ 100mm/second with a long Bowden tube and geared stepper motor extruder, and yes, I upped the acceleration settings.
Are you sure that the bumps are not from water absorbed in your filament?????
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Delta Machines
@jmf - My response was to them in response to them asking for someone else's Repetier EEPROM settings, *not* a criticism of anything you posted.....
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Delta Machines
QuotebigfilsingThe heat transition/conduction up the hot-end is stopped by the finned barrel with a fan blowing on it.
E3D hotend science (voodoo) wants to keep the melt zone as short as possible inside the hotend. The longer the melt zone gets, the more the filament swells out in its rubbery semi-melted state and causes increased friction/jamming.
The heat break is made out of stainless steel
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Delta Machines
QuotebigfilsingAndy ..surely the plumbers tape insulates the threaded tube ( heat break) from the alu fin barrel reducing functionality ??
That's a GOOD thing...hence why they call the stainless tube a heat BREAK.....
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Delta Machines
Borrowing someone else's settings is pointless. Even if you both built the same exact machine from a kit, it will need to be calibrated. In this case, I would start with steps/mm on your motors, make sure that you have all of the micro-step jumpers installed if your board uses them, etc. Then, go through the rest of the procedure to find the proper Delta radius so that your print head doesn't
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Delta Machines
I would have Repetier on it yesterday if I were you. They even have a web-based configuration builder, where you answer questions and at the end it gives you an archive file to download that's ready for you to compile and upload onto your board.
Before you do that, humor me for a moment and open up this file in notepad or wordpad:
C:\Users\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Marlin-master\dogm_font_da
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Delta Machines
I don't use Marlin, but this sounds from an old configuration.h file I have laying around that you may be running the heated bed in bang-bang mode with BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING defined to enable hysteresis.....
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Delta Machines
QuoteDark SkunkNOTE: In relation to the electronics: I did by a relatively inexpensive package from Sintron off Amazon. I think it was under $60 shipped. I'm pretty happy with that. It came in a professional package, with both boards, a usb cable and 5 steppers. Jumpers were already installed. I figured I would give them the plug...
Speaking of plugs for Sintron, you might want to check th
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Delta Machines
QuotebigfilsingFirmware that is set up for LCD use works fine even when there isnt an LCD attached.
I disagree with this statement. We all know that Marlin already has serious performance issues running a graphical LCD and doing Delta math at the same time. The GLCD code is wasting resources regardless if there's one connected, and should be removed.
OP - The line that you need to comment out
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Delta Machines
http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Rampswire14.svg
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Delta Machines
I assume that you are feeding 12V power from your power supply to both the 5A input (logic/heaters/steppers) and 11A input (heated bed).....
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Delta Machines
Just swap the X and Y stepper motor and endstop connectors. No reason to over-think it any deeper. Been there, done that, printed reverse threads on several parts before I caught the mistake.....
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Delta Machines
While you're at it, incorporate multiple thermistors to provide per-zone temperature regulation for higher accuracy.....
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General
Quotemikes3dsAny advice before I start buying parts, and 3d printing parts?
The best advice that I can offer -- there is a fine line between hobby and mental obsession. This should be included on every 3D printer part as a legal disclaimer.....
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Delta Machines
Your hotend shroud is made of PEEK, like a genuine J-head. It does not require a fan.
However, some of the J-head clones have been reported to omit the teflon liner inside that runs through the PEEK and down to the heater block. There's a web page that I saw with different J-head clones and their differences from the real part, and it had several pictures you might want to reference.....
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Delta Machines
Did you read the wiki entry for ATX power supplies?
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/ATX#Technical_Details
Sounds like a balanced load issue.....
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RAMPS Electronics
Silly question - did you confirm that the thermistor in the hotend matches what you have set in firmware? Are the heater and thermistor firmly attached to the hotend block? Just trying to confirm that the indicated 225C is really 225C, because that should be enough to melt PLA...unless your filament is really ABS.....
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Delta Machines
They are calling it the "Red Rabbit" board:
http://www.3dxmy.com/?p=822
No sense of how they stand on open-source, but a huge concern that the firmware was apparently developed in-house and obviously has a lot of custom code to run the color touchscreen. On the plus side, the top-of-the-line board with a larger touchscreen and dual hotends is under $73 at today's exchange rate.....
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Controllers
QuoteDavid J
Not quite a Lotus 7...
Locost
Even better! A racing friend of mine has a Caterham 7, which are not really common on this side of the pond. I've been building an open-wheel "special" race car for hillclimbs and driving skill events for about 10 years now, and might even have something to push out of the garage in a few more years at the pace I'm moving.....
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Delta Machines
You will need to check Marlin and see how it is configured. I have seen the button on a genuine RRD GLCD used as a "back" button in the LCD menus on other firmware, and some of the RRD clones have two buttons each configured to do different things.....
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Controllers
Nice Lotus Seven sketch behind the printer.....
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Delta Machines
Isn't that what it is supposed to do...immediately stop all processing/movements, power down the heaters, and wait for you to push the reset button?????
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Controllers
QuoteSupraGuybut if torque really is a problem, then it is so much better to go with a geared down extruder and just be done with it.
Because they have 8mm shafts and you need to buy a bigger hob?????
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Reprappers
Quotedc42Normally, the extruder motor skips steps rather than forcing the tube out. So the pneumatic connector (or whatever else is holding the end of the Bowden tube) may need to be replaced, to hold the tube more securely.
Many people consider the Bowden tube pneumatic connectors to be consumables, like filament, kapton/blue tape, and glue sticks. If they will no longer hold the tube inside,
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Delta Machines
Can you also include the use of round glass mirrors in this discussion? They are available for peanuts in dollar stores as party/home decoration supplies, being used as center pieces for table ornaments, candle holders, etc:
http://www.amazon.com/Set-10-Diameter-Mirrors-Centerpieces/dp/B001E00IKM/ref=sr_1_29
I've seen several Delta printer owners using them as build surfaces...both with and wi
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Safety & Best Practices
M119 is your friend for troubleshooting endstops.....
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General
