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Repetier,
Thanks for that. I tried it last night.
I very much prefer Repetier to RepSnapper - so, good stuff!
However, I had a couple of problems (which I suspect is down to me not understanding the implications of all the settings, so down to me not the software?).
I quick experiment showed that it was moving my extruder much faster than I was comfortable with.
So, I changed quite a few sett
by
Flackster
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
Ah! - I see now! - that's what an stl file looks like (I assumed it was OpenScad code - stupid Flackster!)
I tried to use OpenScad on them and that didn't work - now I understand why.
Thanks so much for the help.
BTW - What's the 'felt' branch?
Cheers
Pete
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Flackster
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General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the further helps guys
Trying that now (though GEN6 firmware upload problem is delaying things - )
DeuxVis - I just measure the wall width with electronic callipers & then divide by layer height. In fact, that made me think I'd better be sure about my layer height (I just divided by 0.4 - now I will measure it, divide by number of layers and use that as 'layer height'). That may
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Flackster
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Skeinforge
Hi,
I seem to have developed an odd firmware upload problem.
Until recently it was fine. I would change things (E_STEPS_PER_MM, Z_STEPS_PER_MM) and the behaviour changed as it should do.
But now, when I make a change and upload it has no affect.
I verify it in Arduino with no errors
I upload it and the little debug light flashes to show communication
I push the reset button and close Arduino a
by
Flackster
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Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hi,
I've recently got my Mendel working (Hooray!). I'm busy calibrating to get reasonable quality and am almost at the stage where I can start printing 'real parts'. I thought I'd get going on some Prusa parts since I fancy giving that a shot.
The Prusa Wiki Entry (http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel#Printing_a_Prusa_on_anything_else) states that
"…..all the .stl files necessary to print a Pr
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Flackster
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General Mendel Topics
Hi,
Many thinks for all the advice so far – it's really making a difference. I tried new settings and have had good results. Main items of interest (to me
1) I still can't beat my 'Can't get single thickness walls problem' but have had no luck apart from a 20 mm cuboid but not the 40mm one)
(this issue is better described here - )
2) My 'Layers/Perimeter width over thickness (ratio)' is 2.25
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Flackster
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Skeinforge
DeuxVis
I've had the same problem as you (though I didn't recognise it at the time).
See my thread about infill problems here:
I printed the 2 cuboids you provided (thanks for that – very useful) and had precisely the same results. The 2 cm cuboid printed with a single thickness wall, the 4cm cuboid with double thickness.
Very odd
Interestingly (possibly) when I printed with this 2cm cuboid
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Flackster
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Skeinforge
Thanks for all the advice chaps,
I'll have to wait till next mid-week to try them but will report back when I've tried new settings.
I do like having a very slow first layer for sticking and 'phew, it's all going ok' purposes.
I did have a thought (when I woke up at 4am this morning so no tests yet that my 'too much' infill problem may be because when I tried to change:
Fill/Feed rate (mm/s)
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Flackster
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Skeinforge
Hi Sublime,
Yea, I did that and checked it (twice). When I ask for 10 steps in RepSnapper my extruder draws in in 10mm of filament.
Below is my full list of my Skeinforge 43 settings
(well, probably almost full
Thanks again
Pete
**********************************
Full list of my Skeinforge 43 settings
Here's my main sources of inspiration. Huge thanks to:
and a multitude of other posts
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Flackster
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Skeinforge
Sadly, my extra shells values are all set to zero.
I wouldn't worry but from the previous 20 by 20 solid 'cube', and from my prints so far in general I can see it's 'overfilling' my objects too much. Not massively but enough that after a few layers the extruder can be heard clicking as it crosses the top of the layer. I'm scared I'll break my extruder (again).
It's not the Z_STEPS_PER_MM settin
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Flackster
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Skeinforge
Dave,
Cheers for that. I printed and it was (extremely close to) 20mm by 20mm - so, that's OK
So, I moved onto the 20 by 20 cube with a 0.5mm thickness wall.
The wall is 1.6mm wide ,which seems more than just down to tweaking:
- carve/carve/perimeter width over thickness (ratio) which is currently 1.8.
- fill/ Infill width over thickness (ratio) is also 1.8.
Watching as it prints I can see t
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Flackster
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Skeinforge
Hi,
I recently starting using Skeinforge and a fine tool it is too. I really improved my prints.
However, I thought I'd better start calibrating it properly before really getting going.
I tried to print a solid 20 by 20 box (from this thingiverse page ). But the resulting skeinforge statistics tell me I'm getting something much bigger than 20mm square.
With carve/perimeter width over thickness
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Flackster
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Skeinforge
Hi,
I recently got my mendel printing and started printing some of the calibration items that are available. I found when printing objects that are tall (40 or 50mm) with a small surface area (10mm by 10mm) my printer started having trouble. The extruded filament starts to get clogged up on the end of the nozzle. Also, the print quality of that part of my object is poor. I initially thought my z
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Flackster
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Skeinforge
Hi,
Thanks for the suggestion. I solved the problem (though I'm not exactly sure of the real cause)
I went back to the original firmware and applied all the changes I'd made again (I did file comparison to check I caught everything)
Now it works fine (notwithstanding some thermister/heating resister temperamental wiring that also obscured the problem). I think it must have been:
1) removalof
by
Flackster
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General
Hi,
Until recently my extruder heater was working just fine (and has been for ages)
In the last week or so, I made a new extruder heater using a different thermister (which I have, what I believe, the correct lookup table for). I changed Temparature.h (and Configuration.h for other reasons) to add the new lookup tables.
However, now my GEN6 electronics seems to be acting oddly. The heating res
by
Flackster
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General
I've been having trouble with my extruder/hot end occasionally jamming. I believe this is because the temperature inside my PTFE barrier is too high, the PLA undergoes 'glass transition' and expands causing it to jam.
So, I thought I'd try to measure the temperature inside my hot end using a thermocouple thermometer.
My understanding is that PLA undergoes 'glass transition' at about 60deg C. So,
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Flackster
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Hi,
As was not completely unexpected, the fault lay with me
I'd connected the wires into my Molex connector incorrectly. Where I shoud have have the leads from the thermistor I had the ones from the heating resistor and vice versa. A quick swap and everything works again
Pete
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Flackster
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General Mendel Topics
Hi,
I'm having problems with my thermistor and RepSnapper. I recently broke the thermistor so I put a new one on my heating block. I connected it all up and started RepSnapper.
I knew I needed to edit the thermistor table information to match the new thermistor, so I did that and compiled and reloaded the firmware.
However, the" current temp" box on the RepSnapper Print tab doesn't show the te
by
Flackster
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General Mendel Topics
Hi,
I just got my printer working about 30 mins ago!
To get the right (ish) amount of PLA to be extruded I played with the RepSanapper 'Downstream Extrusion Multiplier' bar on the Print tab. So far 2.5 seems about right.
What is that multiplier really doing?
Is it purely saying 'squit out 2.5 times as much stuff as the firmware and/or gcode settings tell you to'?
Or something more subtle that
by
Flackster
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RepSnapper
Hooray!
After working on and off at this since xmas I have my first proper prints! (M8 washer, bag clip & a 10 mm test cube)
So, of course now I wantto print everything I can!
I'd be interested if anyone has any tips on changing filiment
Should I let it run out completely and then try to put in new lengths?
Should I try to follow the existing piece of filiment down the hole and hope my (Wa
by
Flackster
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General Mendel Topics
OK,
Will start with 2.5 mm
Stupid question: If I use a 2.5mm drill doesn't that mean it'll be too tight to even get the 3mm screws in at all? That's why I assumed I should start with a 3mm drill. I guess not
I like the idea of the M4 set screws too but am a tad worried about ruining the holes if I get it wrong
Cheers
Pete
by
Flackster
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Of course - obvious now I see what you say
I think that I assumed I couldn't touch the PTFE barrier at all but of course there 6.5mm plastic each side of the 3mm central hole to play with.
I expect I'll drill a 3mm hole and go with that
Cheers
Pete
by
Flackster
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
I was just putting my hot end onto my new Wades extruder when I realised I can't see how
I can see that there are some holes that can take M3(+) screws (leading to the large hole that will take the 16mm PTFE barrier).
The wiki page (http://reprap.org/wiki/Wade%27s_Geared_Extruder#The_Hot_End_...) says "Attach a length of 16 mm OD PTFE using the two M bolts to pin it in place. I pre-drilled the
by
Flackster
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Gary,
Cheers for that. I did really mean cm (not mm). I'm interested to know if general expectation is that 'falling' 0.5 cm will cause it enough to solidify. I imagine so, but want to check my assumptions. But 'waaay too high' answers that I guess.
So, my hieght (right on bed) is OK - good!
Gunk in nozzle is probably a problem - will give it a scrub (and that wire is a god idea)
Sounds like I
by
Flackster
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
I wish I did have a thermocouple probe. All I have is a thermometer that can measure to 300 deg C, but I need to stick its probe into the hot end while disassembled (it's to wide to fit down a 3mm PTFE barrier).
I quite fancy building a thermocouple probe, though. I'll do some googling at some point......
Cheers
Pete
by
Flackster
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General Mendel Topics
Hi,
My Mendel progress is plodding forward but I've reached a stage where I can't quite work out what my main hurdle(s) are.
My extruder works (when I'm not jamming it) and extrudes PLA. However, it's not sticking to the print bed at all. I've a few thoughts on possible causes and related questions. Any help very much appreciated. I feel I'm soooooo close!
BTW - My print bed in heated (seemed
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Flackster
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Excellent! Thanks for that
(and obvious now that I see my post)
I'll give it a try later
Cheers
Pete
by
Flackster
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Controllers
I was using the wrong thermistor table.
I think I now know how to work out a new one, using the reprap wiki thermistor page details. Next time I need to take my hot end apart (not long I expect , I'll try and update it, recalibate and see how things stand
Thanks to everyone for their input.
Cheers
Pete
by
Flackster
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General Mendel Topics
Hi,
I'm trying using a thermistor not on the list normally used (here: )
I have the data sheet (http://reprap.org/wiki/Thermistor). ) and know the beta value to be 4267
I'm an absolute python newbie. I downloaded it and got it to run but when I run the thermistor table calculator script the output I get implies I'm not kicking off the command properly. (Script is here: )
I'm typing in:
"creat
by
Flackster
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Controllers
Hi,
I've just started getting my very first prints going.
I've jammed my extruder nozzle a couple of times and am interested to know the best ways to clean it when I need to.
I know that ABS will disolve in acetone (and that helped clear my nozzle nicely).
I've switched to PLA for now (since that seemed easier to work with for now - though I'm less convinced than I was). I'm also interested t
by
Flackster
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Page 3 of 4
Pages: 1234