Thanks for the answers. Also, thank you for that article. I will read it carefully. For now, I have solved the problem: I replaced the voltage regulator in the arduino board. And now the arduino is powered through the ramps as was before the VR was fried. And magic! no more spikes, temp reading are super stable again and I can even see the difference now: when PSU is on, the arduino get its powerby Tinchus - General
HI. This was my initial setup: mega 2560 rev3, ramps 1.4 and a reprapdiscount lcd controller all was working ok. I decided to add a raspberry pi3 to the set up. I assembly all and it seemed to work, but while routing cables, I conected in a wrong way 1 of the endstops... So at the moment it trigered, it seems the voltage regulator of the arduino was fried. i say this because if the blackberry isby Tinchus - General
Hi. Im haveing this issue: I have my 3d printer (prusa i3) with a reprapdicont lcd controller. It is independent from my PC computer (or it was). I print from the SD card in the controller. All worked ok, till I decided an upgrade: to add a rapberry pi3 so I has online capabilities to monitor the prints. So I added the raspberry pi3, also at the same time, I modified the cable lenght of the rerapby Tinchus - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks all for the comments: useing a PTFE heatbreak is not a good option for this range of etmperatures. PTFE starts to break at those temperatures and releases toxic fumes in the process. The link:by Tinchus - Printing
Hi all! I have this filament, a kind of PET. It is really driving me crazy. It is really a good material, really strong, almost like naylon, but cheaper. It is really dificult to print with it but I cant figure it out what the problem is exactly. Reccomended temperature: 230/250 The print starts and sometimes it clogs very quickly, other times it takes minutes, sometimes the print completes withby Tinchus - Printing
My frame is made of steelby Tinchus - Printing
Hi all. I have this prusa i3. It is calibated, really well calibrated. The only issue I have had is this (now I know what it is) z ribbing. For a long time I suposed it was a problem related to filament quality, extrusion problems, layer shifting, and other theories. In the atached picture, it really looks worse of what it is. This "banding" is really small, you can see it more when white plasticby Tinchus - Printing
Did you checked that backlash in your belts? I did (for 100 times jajaj) but the bnding is still there. I did some other tweaks to the printer and now I can say 100% sure that thet problem is not related any kind od z banding/ribbing because I completly separated the X axis from the threaded rods, and the banding is there... Im printing now, a rounded/sqare abject, it si medium. Im printing a slby Tinchus - Printing
Well... that might be because EA is actually not really good for polishing PLAby Tinchus - Printing
Thank all for the information and feedback. So far I have: a good USB hub with, I dont rememeber the name of, a kind of overpower protection. And I will continue useing the printer through the LCD controller... and keep the conection to the laptop more restrained. Thanks all of you!by Tinchus - General
I could also discard the Z axis of this problem and I think you have the same problem than me. The Z axis is is not, at least mine, the problem: at the microscope I can perfectly see that there is a missalignment, either in the X or Y axis (cant say wich one yet, but think it is in the X), it is not an over or under extrusion due to failure in the Z. If you can take a photo with high augmentationby Tinchus - Printing
Your X axis movement seem to be wrong, it is going in the oposite direction. If you do a homeing, it goes to the right side? then it is wrong. To solve this just invert the cable of that motor coneccted in the ramp board, just conecte it in the oposite way.by Tinchus - Printing
Apart from being a shinny blue PLA, I cn see the bandng is still there right? I have been doin some more tests and I might have something: Im my previous post it looked like my banding desapeared. Well, it dindt: the object I used to do the test may be is too small and useing also a rounded shape, helpd to "hide" the problem I think Today I finished a couple of prints and studied them realy cloby Tinchus - Printing
Hi all. Today was... BAD day. I was finishing a print, and exactly when the print was finished I was looking how the extruder was homeing the X axis and at the end I heard (I think it was) a littel bump or may be was the sound of short curcuit or something, the printer LCD went completly "iluminated" (actually I discovered later that the screen brithness went to 100% and I just fixed from the coby Tinchus - General
Your noozle tip has a big flat area indeed, now I understand better your good results beyond the 1.7 rule. I would like to see if it is posible another test: Overhangs. The reason of haveing small flat areas around the hole, not my knowledge but what I read in the net, is that that is the way to reduce heat radiation to the plastic lines in the neighbour perimeter. Can you make and overhang testby Tinchus - Printing
I had some interesting results today. I was following the reading here: and here I printed a cube, later a cilinder, both solid. The really small banding was there, on both of them (3 perimeters, 100% infill). When I say small, it is really small much much smaller now that I removed the springs of my heated bed. In fact I noticed that the bands look bigger than they really are, is like a visualby Tinchus - Printing
Evitloy, any update? Today I finally gor rid of the springs in my heated bed and made it rock solid. I have been printing all day: really good results, most banding desapeared in 90%. There is still some miinor banding, and there is nothing else I can check by now. The only thing left would be drivers, but I really know nothing about the issue. Also, this banding... is really small, I think it coby Tinchus - Printing
I think those are really good results...by Tinchus - Printing
Very interesting. I really want to know more about it, also hear the explanation from other people baout tech issues here. My knowledge is restricted to what I have learnt on the net reading tech articles and from printing experience. Since now the max (safe) width for an extrusion should be noozle size X 1.7, so for a 0.4 noozle we should print at a max of 0.68. Going beyond that should take usby Tinchus - Printing
But I never said is a hard limit (may be excuse me but english is not my mother language so...), as I said, max width is the RECOMENDED limit you should not go over it for aceptable predictable results. Talking about noozle geometry is going inside an issue wich ahs been discused somehow on the net, mainly regarding heating issues. And from the point of view of an end user, geometry of the noozlby Tinchus - Printing
0.68 is the max width for an extrusion to be made with a 0.4 noozle. You can actually extrude more than 0.68 but not in a predictable and controlled manner. So, the formula noozle size X 1.7 is what you use to calculate the max width of extrusion for certain noozle. For a 0.4 is 0.68, for a 0.3 is 0.51 and so on. In some slicer you are goin to se that number (assuming you have a 0.4 noozle) forby Tinchus - Printing
Well, I really think I have the explanantion to your speed / temp problems. Because it was something I had and took me a lot to really discover what was going on. In the begining I could perfectly print with some filaments, mainly ABS. One day I tried PLA and PET. Complete failure, both of tehm in some point gave me clogs... After a lot of test and checks, I discovered that I could print PLA andby Tinchus - Printing
Forget about pressure settings, still experimental and you need to have volumentric extrusion set I think. Regarding accel setting, it wont break anything: in default extrusion set the value you have in your firmware, set the desired value in the bridge section, and all other set them to 0 (cero mean default, so all values with a cero value will use the defaul, and since the default is the same aby Tinchus - Printing
MCcarman, you are somehow wrong: With a 0.4 noozle, you can print fine details upto 0.4 wich s the noozle size. 0.68 is the MAX width you can extrude witha 0.4 noozle (in fact you can extrude more, but not in a consistent way) Going back to you Gary, I dont understand what you mean with the fan being part of your head. You have to have 2 fans in your extruder: the cold end fan, and the layers fby Tinchus - Printing
Why dont you try my exact settings and test that? 50mm/s speed , fan at 100%, bridges accel 200, flow 1/0.95 It is really important the fan shroud, to me, once I got it running, I can print 15 cms long bridges, with no saggying If you look for a food shroud, look at this: . I have a prusa I3 and I could adapt it to me wade extruder. It works GREAT for bridgingby Tinchus - Printing
When somebody with more experience shares knowledge with you, and you answer back "any other idea?" Do you think people will feel like helping you???? If you know that much and dont want to hear from the ones with more experience... what are you doing here. With only 2 months of printing and not being able to print a brindge you shluld hear more carefully. 10mm/s for a bridge is a joke. You needby Tinchus - Printing
You have an over heatng problem there, or, to say it better, you are printing faster than the plastic can cool before the next hot layer is put on top of it. If you are useing PLA (I guess for your temperature), you need to use a more agressive layer cooling. Put you fan at 100% and if that is not enough... you need a better fan system or as previously stated: print more than 1 object so each laby Tinchus - Printing
This is a know issue with slic3r 1.2.9. To solve this, set gap fill speed to 0. Or get the 1.3.0 DEV version (is more stable than 1.2.9 actually) regarding 0.67 extrusions. Well, for a 0.4 noozle, the max extrusion width is 0.68 because of 0.4 X 1.7. This formule give what is calculated to be the necesary amount of extruded plastic with a given speed that minimize lateral forces when being extrudby Tinchus - Printing
I had the same issue. You need to tune the extrusion rate of the bridge, speed and the acceleration, of those 3, most important is extrusion rate / speed. I use slicer and my setting is: bridge speed 50 mm/s, extrusion 1 / 0.95 depending on the filament I use. And of course an excelent cooling, 100% for bridges (and I have a beatiful cobra fan shroud witha radial fan, that thing really blows airby Tinchus - Printing
Yhis is a different picture. O your previous one, definitly there was a pattern. In this one... you have some banding, and look exactly like what I have. As I said before, I cant help you here, in fact I will be waitching this post since I have the same issue. So far I have checked everything: belts, motors, axis aligments, step calibration, extrusion calibration. The only things left to try forby Tinchus - Printing