Your last pictre, that is definitly a case of Z banding. I have a similar issue to yours (not the z banding like you have now, but some of my prints lookes exactly like the first pictures you posted). So far, i have tried everything: my extrusion calibration is perfect, all oX and Y movements are calibrated. Today, I have 1 fianl conclusion: first, in some point I will get rid of the spring suppoby Tinchus - Printing
Hi. I really would like this kind of module in slic3r. I downloaded the script from here. Also I have python27 installed, win 10 64 b. When I execute the script, I get this: Traceback (most recent call last): File "F:\wood.py", line 196, in main(sys.argv[1:]) File "F:\wood.py", line 168, in main temps.append(minTemp + (maxTemp - minTemp) * nn) TypeError: unsupported operand type(s)by Tinchus - Slic3r
I had problem with humedity. After a lot of research and thinking, I came to this: (see in the middle of post) My dryer lets me dry many rolls at the time and also print with the roll inside, so it is always dry. Regarding times, I had problem with hig temepratures: for some reason some filaments change something in their composition. Also, the roll itself sometimed deforms. Better results for aby Tinchus - General
I made this, and works really good!by Tinchus - Reprappers
Well, yes, it is somehow big. But I made it exactly for storeing some rolls at the time. And has the same size as my printer enclosure: 50X45X50 cms. I think we can discuss a lot abot drying filament, but for sure we will not discover anuthing new or something that has not been discussed in the forum. I searched a lot of info, looked for already available comercial products, talk to people in forby Tinchus - Printing
Mongrel Shark: interesting info, actually what you are talking about reminds me one thing I didnt mentioned: the last drying session I did, I actually increased the temperature from 40 to 50 degrees, and time was also longer like 5 to 6 hs... may be was too much... And also I noticed that increasing temperature helped me in this problem but it still feels dificult to extrude. Before this, extrudeby Tinchus - Printing
Hi. Where I live we usually have at least 70% of air humidity. It makes reaaly dificult to have your filament dry enough to get good prints. Till now I have been drying my rolls in the oven... a bad way to do it in my opinion, if you are not reaaly takeing care of it you will end up ruining a complete roll, bending your rolls, etc. In conclusion, a very unconfortable way to do it specially becauby Tinchus - Printing
I print ABS like 90% of my time. NAd believe me: there is no way or anything you tell me to make me believe that the radial fan you have is not afecting your ABS prints. First, I have to say that your print temp is way too high, I think your temp reading are not accurate or if you really have thant temperature, you should have runid the thermistor by now. "common" thermistor tolerated till 250 C,by Tinchus - Printing
Hi all! I have been haveing this problem with this particular material, it is a kind of PET. The problem is that despite it is a really good material, strong, nice, I have many noozle clogs. Kind of a ramdom issue. I though temperature was the problem. It is not. I thought noozle was clogged. I clened it, I replaced it. Not the problem. I thought I had some thermal issue in the heatbreak. That wby Tinchus - Printing
The picture is really bad to say something more accuarete but all looks like you have an overhang problem. Either way, that overhang is not really bad, so that leads me to say that you problem might be related to: calibration of your X/Y steps (if your movements are not accurate, overhang layers will definitly not be where they are suposed to be, some sagging will occur) or/and extrusion calibratby Tinchus - Printing
Ok, thanks for the feedback!!! I really preciated it. I tried both advices and printed a test: 1 useing a 0.1 mm layer, and the other one useing 0.3mm layer (is this the max layer height for a 0.4 noozle?) The results: the 0.1 test failed again, the 0.3 is a winner... that overhang not only printed... it printed really well and I measured it: it is a 25 degrees overhang. I was expecting the contby Tinchus - Printing
Hi. Im really haveing troubles with this model... I have tries a lot of things. The problem is the area (look pictures). It is an overhang of 30 degrees. Im useing PLA. Calibration is perfect, extrusion is perfect. Printing speed is 30 mm/s (I should try slower? but at 30 mm/s printing time is 20 hs aprox...). Temp:180 The problem is that overhang area, it starts printing but the border starts toby Tinchus - Printing
Thanks for the help. I googled it. I really dont know if they are in series or parallel... Anyway, I looked infor how to set it up in seris: I found this: The problem is that I really dont know much about electronics... If they are in paralel and they are lack of power, can I solve it by increasing a little power from the pololu? I will see if I can find somebody who can tell me if they areby Tinchus - Mechanics
Hi. I have a prusa I3. Everything seems to be working ok, but yesterday I print a tall piece (185mm tall, like a tower). Actually the piece is even taller, 30cms tall, so I split the piece in 2 for gluing them later. At them moment of joining both pice they didnt match... Looking for the problem, the tallest piece, the 185mm tall piece, seemed to be like "twisted" : one side of the piece was tallby Tinchus - Mechanics
Ok. All of you are talking about general curling and delamination but that is not my problem. I print big ABS pieces with no delamination and perfect first layers. I print very nice PLA pieces too. The problem is very specific to certain parts of certain models, like the one I posted in the pictures, the curling happens only in the section while being printed. If I slow down the print there, it iby Tinchus - Printing
Hi. I have this issue: When printing some border of an object, close to be name overhang, the borders curl up, no matter if the material is ABS or PLA, so I can say is not a material issue? I have tried printing this parts useing more perimeter, less perimeters, it doesnt help. Any suggestions about how to avoid this? the probem is that one that section is curled, when the noozle pass over it, itby Tinchus - Printing
Check this: Those builds are made from the dev version of Alexby Tinchus - Slic3r
Check all points mentioned. Also, I print useing hair spray and lately im printing over kapton tape only, with really perfect results. What I have found is that I see the problem you have after some prints. The solution to me was cleaning the kapton surface before starting useing acetone, thta leaves a perfect clean surfece and I can tell the different right away. Sometime Im lazy... and after 2by Tinchus - Slic3r
Are you sure about this? becasue the setting in slic3r would override the setting of the printer if this wuld be case.by Tinchus - Slic3r
I had that problem, but not that serious. I found that the cables going to the X stepper motor, were very close to other cables and according a and electronic engineer I have as a friend, this could cause "parasitic current" into the cable. I isoleted those cables, and the problem desapeared.by Tinchus - Printing
You have couple of posibilities here: 1.- you extruding is not completely calibrated. If you didnt, follow calibration steps detailed by tomas in youtube (2 videos, 1 general calibration and 1 detailed calibration) 2- there is a know bug in the official latest release of slic3r, wich will over extrude gap fills. Check in your configuration and put gap fill speed to CERO, that will diseble gap fby Tinchus - Slic3r
Hi. I cant see your configuration, but, looking at the pictures, the cause is 1 of 2 posibilities: 1- check your design, that kind of gaps are made when the wall is too thin for your noozle. 2- If you didnt do it ignore this, but, in slic3r you can set different layers hights. If you did this and have a gap, that means you misscalculated the height of each section and actually there is a portionby Tinchus - Slic3r
I would cut that piece in 2 and then glue both parts. That woulld let you have a goot osition and aliminate a lot of required supportby Tinchus - Printing
DC42, I preciate your feedback but you are not focuseing on my question. And regarding heatbrak... no, there is no way you can make the heatbreak be below 70 degrees if you print at 260 degrees. My fan is a 120 mm radial fan, way way more powerfull and gives like 100 time more air flow than a 40 mm fan. And as I said, e3d support has confirmed that 70 degrees on the heatbreak is the expected ifby Tinchus - Mechanics
Im useing a genuine e3dv5. And yes, it has been confirmed by e3d support that if the hotend is at 250/260 I can perfectly expect that the heatbreak will be at something around 70 degrees, and that would be perfectly "normal" . If you print PLA at 190/200 degrees, the heatbreak will be much cooler of course. But as I said, this particular material behaves like PLA and ABS: it softens at 70 and melby Tinchus - Mechanics
Hi. I hoe this is the correct section of the forum for this question; I have this "issue": I have a filament,a sort of pet wich is really sensible to temperature. It melts at 240 degrees but starts to soften at 70!!! So is is quite dificult no to have a jam. So basically I need to jeep the filament flooding somehow quick to avoid a jam. Right now Im useing a 0.4 noozle and my minimun print speedby Tinchus - Mechanics
Tabs are a great add-on to the prints: who prints with ABS and says that never has a print warp... well, he is not saying completly the true... warping in abs is a big issue specially when the contact surface is big and also is affected by the kind and amount of infill. Tab, and circular tabs added to the corners are almost a must for some particular abs prints. You can use brim... yes, but the wby Tinchus - Printing
Also make sure your hotend is properly assembled: check that the hotend is very straight mounted on the extruder.by Tinchus - General Mendel Topics
I checked: no, it is already in -1by Tinchus - Firmware - mainstream and related support