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These are my new kossel motor frames, effectors, etc. These are printed on the same machine as the failed prints. Only difference is I switched back to the MK-8 print head the one on the left and not the knock off V6:
And these are the ones with the knock off V6:
So what it came down to is the knock off V6 would not print well on larger prints. On smaller prints it look great.I also tr
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Prusa i3 and variants
So after spending some time on IRC and learning about my "metal j-head v6" i pulled my printer apart and put the mk-8 head back in retried the print and it came out almost perfect couple very small separations so I will try another at a little higher temp. So maybe the thermo reading is off on my "j-head" or the fact of it being a knock off J-head is the blame.
Can I measure the ohms of my the
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Prusa i3 and variants
The prusaprinters.org site gave me 1600 and it is at 1585 now, I still have this odd print separation issue though in abs on taller printers. 1585 was the z-steps i need. and the print separation was from my knock off V6.
If this is seen by a ADMIN please mark as solved.
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Prusa i3 and variants
Is there a binding issue? with the printer unpluged and not hooked to usb if you slowly push the bed and x-carriage back and forth see if there is any tight spots.
Is the print still stuck firmly to the bed is it coming loose? Are any wires hanging down bumping it? How tight are the belts and is the motor hot after being in use a few minutes (I saw you said these were good but I added adjuster
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I'm at 1559 now on this print of a 20x20x20 cube 400 caused the head to stick in the last layer 1000 gave me a 13mm cube i tried at 1235 which is what I messured the movement of the carriage at and got 17 so now I am trying 1559. Also looks like I am under extruding so dropped from 95 step to 90. 10 minutes till i can check.
I bought different rods mine were 400 mm and seems the thread pitch
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Prusa i3 and variants
Tom's videos have been a HUGE help. I am printing ABS with 235 at the nozzle and 110 on the bed. Belt tension is a HUGE issue. I printed my way up so to speak. I printed my first set of upgrades (belt tension adjusters) that looked like crap installed them printed a new set which looked great and so on. I use hair spray on my bed tried glues stick and the acetone trick but hair spray works gre
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteifrisbie
Hi Everyone. I am returning to a project from over a year ago I had to abandon due to RL. Last I was working on my Prusa (I guess you call it an i2 now) I had the PCB Heated Bed MK1 with glass mounted to it with clips and the thermistor taped to the edge of the top surface of the glass using kapton tape.
My goal was to print with ABS (which I never accomplished since I didn't hav
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Prusa i3 and variants
I have been trying to print some kossel motor frames and the prints always fails I just noticed though they have always failed in the same spot!! I have tried enclosing to avoid drafts, raised the hot end temp up to 235 and the bed to 110. I have tried adding a skirt and also printing a brim (though only 12 layers high). I have changed the infill percent down as low as %10 and kept my walls to
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Prusa i3 and variants
Checked the glass on my bed with my laser thermo it would show from 2-5 degrees of my thermistor reading in repetier!!! Since this is on the glass I'll take it!! I guess I'll stick with profile 1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts
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Quotetherippa
QuoteLagomorph
Quotetherippa
QuoteBert3D
So I upgraded to the latest marlin code posted earlier in this topic, and now by bed won't go much above 85 or 90 degrees, and takes much longer than before. Has anyone fixed this? What's the trick?
Also, is the throat on the extruder a 26mm or a 30mm?
Re-run the PID autotune for the bed.
I had th
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quote
therippa
Quote
Lagomorph
Quote
therippa
Quote
Bert3D
So I upgraded to the latest marlin code posted earlier in this topic, and now by bed won't go much above 85 or 90 degrees, and takes much longer than before. Has anyone fixed this? What's the trick?
Also, is the throat on the extruder a 26mm or a 30mm?
Re-run the PID autotune for the bed.
I had the same problem until I changed the ther
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa
QuoteLagomorph
Quotetherippa
QuoteBert3D
So I upgraded to the latest marlin code posted earlier in this topic, and now by bed won't go much above 85 or 90 degrees, and takes much longer than before. Has anyone fixed this? What's the trick?
Also, is the throat on the extruder a 26mm or a 30mm?
Re-run the PID autotune for the bed.
I had the same problem until I changed the thermi
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa
QuoteLagomorph
Quotetherippa
QuoteBert3D
So I upgraded to the latest marlin code posted earlier in this topic, and now by bed won't go much above 85 or 90 degrees, and takes much longer than before. Has anyone fixed this? What's the trick?
Also, is the throat on the extruder a 26mm or a 30mm?
Re-run the PID autotune for the bed.
I had the same problem until I changed the thermi
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Prusa i3 and variants
I tried
kp 10.00
ki .023
kd 305.4
Could not get the bed over 85 degrees.
So frustrated I ordered a new PCB heater in hopes it was my fault and I damaged the bed trying to unsolder the wires when i flipped it.
I have seen people with this issue change the thermistor from table 6 to table 1 will try it.
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Prusa i3 and variants
My heated bed WAS working ok just took forever to reach temp (25 minutes). So when I overhauled my I3-2020 I flipped my heater over so grid side was up added a piece of cardboard between aluminum plate and PCB, then ran PID autotune with plugging the new values in my firmware. Well now I can not get the bed to 100 degrees by itself. If I use a heat gun to get it up to temp then the temp will not
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Any thoughts on this? stepper skip, bad stl file? bad slice?
Maybe I should mention I was blasting my build plate with a heat gun to get it up to temperature just before the print started so maybe those are thermal induced?
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Ever since i flipped my bed I can not get the temp over 90 uhg time to trouble shoot.
Looks like I loaded my PLA profile and not my ABS so bed was doing as it should!! Changed back and looks good.
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16
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Quotezarnold16
Okay, Ive had some great prints but now the bed it unleveled and when I go to level it, it won't level. If I tighten the thumb screws all the way the back and the front have a difference of about .5 cm. Im trying to get my printer back to printing but now it wont. Here is a print I made before this.
Check that your bearings are seated
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Prusa i3 and variants
Current state of the printer. I still need to add the adjustable Z-endstop, level the bed, and tidy up some wires. to tired to do it tonight though. May not show well in the photos but I also flipped over the bed heater over to grid side up and added a piece of cardboard between the heater and the aluminum bed plate.
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16
Okay, Ive had some great prints but now the bed it unleveled and when I go to level it, it won't level. If I tighten the thumb screws all the way the back and the front have a difference of about .5 cm. Im trying to get my printer back to printing but now it wont. Here is a print I made before this.
Check that your bearings are seated under the bed evenly!!! is one of the three
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Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone made any Y end stop mods? I do not like how it's set up and I am slowly learning 123 design. Just curious if anyone has made some yet.
I plan on doing a MAJOR overhaul this weekend and one of the things I would like to address is bed heat up time. Will start by flipping my heater over grid up but I am curious about what people are using to insulate the aluminium plate from the heater.
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteawmyhr
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Quotekn4ud
Quoteejnelson
while we're asking questions for the lead screw upgraders... anyone have a good US source? I feel like the folgertech ones are overpriced. Looks like openbuilds has them for 10$ but with no nut.
I ordered 2 last night from banggood USA warehouse (so it said) with nuts and 400mm long for a little over $26 with shipping.
I also go
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekn4ud
Quoteejnelson
while we're asking questions for the lead screw upgraders... anyone have a good US source? I feel like the folgertech ones are overpriced. Looks like openbuilds has them for 10$ but with no nut.
I ordered 2 last night from banggood USA warehouse (so it said) with nuts and 400mm long for a little over $26 with shipping.
I also got the 400mm ones. So now going to try to
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Prusa i3 and variants
The bed takes A LONG time to heat I have heard of people putting material between the aluminium plate and the heater bed. I've been nervous about doing this but the 15 minute or so heat up time is a pain in the ass.
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Pages: 12345