Show all posts by user
Page 3 of 5
Pages: 
12345
Results 61 — 90 of 121
Thanks but that is not my design I need to look back to were i got it to give credit where it's due.
WOW took forever to find here it is all credit to orangclockwerk
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
So I went ahead and ordered the 8mm threaded rod. Does anyone know how to modify the firmware to switch from 5mm rods to 400mm Lead Screw 3D Printer Z Axis Lead Screw ACME Lead Screw 8mm Screw Pitch. I plan on printing out the z motor stand offs. Not home to double check if I needed the 300 or 400mm length rods will cut down the 400 if need be.
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMach
[email protected]
I'm working on modifying the x-carriage design by wderoxas, I'm trying to add a adjustable z-endstop screw. I'm having a hell of time since I have never used any type of 3d modeling programming. I will keep plugging away at it but no clue what I'm doing yet!!!
Did you import the model as a STL. If you did, remember to try to remove as many unnecessary li
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
I'm working on modifying the x-carriage design by wderoxas, I'm trying to add a adjustable z-endstop screw. I'm having a hell of time since I have never used any type of 3d modeling programming. I will keep plugging away at it but no clue what I'm doing yet!!!
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteshaol
@ Blank64
First I have no programming skill or 3d printing skill.
I'm having problems too. which motor is it? Mine was X. If your are having the problem with the printer powered on then go into configuration.h go down to end stop and change 1 to -1 or the same as y and z. For me this freed the motor then it moved freely.
goodluck
Make sure to use the marlin version therippa posted
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
I placed my bed upside down also. Only impact is LONGER times to heat the bed. I may take it apart and flip it and add a layer of material between the heater and the aluminuim plate when I change my X-carriage ends. But over all seems to have no impact on print quality.
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas
[email protected]
I want to reprint the x-carriage parts, I thought I saw a copy of them with screws to snug up the bearings but without the 8 mm collars like these have I like wderoxas design but for some reason I am nervous about changing out the 5 mm rods to the 8mm collared ones. I cracked the under motor bracket for the Z rod holders. I have been asking Folger tech
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
I want to reprint the x-carriage parts, I thought I saw a copy of them with screws to snug up the bearings but without the 8 mm collars like these have I like wderoxas design but for some reason I am nervous about changing out the 5 mm rods to the 8mm collared ones. I cracked the under motor bracket for the Z rod holders. I have been asking Folger tech to sell me new ones.
Does anyone know w
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
So my printer is slowly turning green as I print new parts and things for it.
The fan shroud and resetting my Z height after changing the glass seems to make the difference.
Right now I am printing the LCD mounts from animoose. Still some minor stringing but not bad.
I ordered a J head v6 and a bowden extruder setup now just gotta print the mounting for the J head.
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDanmst3k
Almost done with my Prusa i3 2020 build. It's my first 3d printer. I noticed in the build pdf manual that the X Stepper is plugged into the ramps reversed when compared to the other steppers but there isn't any mention of it in the manual. I also have read about people having problems with the X stepper direction and endstop. So, I'm thinking I'll do the same and see what happens wi
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
I tuned my extruder (99.2 when asking for 100) tried printing the calibration for fine tuning it and got a stringy mess. So I tried a 25 mm open topped cube came out fine. Tried A small figure and it failed tried a holder for my lcd screen and got this picture above. I'm trying a fan shroud right now looks like it is not going well I tried upping the stepper driver a little for my Y axis no ch
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCheopisIV
Quotetherippa
Well, I solved a bunch of my issues tonight by splurging on Simplify3D. My calibration cubes no longer have the bad corner, my x-axis motor is somehow quieter, I no longer have sagging bridges, printed x and y dimensions are uniform down to the first decimal place, and my print time estimates are way more accurate. I really wish there was a trial version of the soft
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16
Quotemike3
Quotezarnold16
Hi everyone my printer is working now with the new Ramps and Arduino. I have a question about my printer during the prints. In the video I attached, should my printer be that loud when printing, as in when my x axis moves. Also, How can I get rid of the ripples on the single side that is parallel with the x-axis.
(Video and Pics of First Print)
Great gl
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16
Quotemsaeger
Quotezarnold16
Hi everyone my printer is working now with the new Ramps and Arduino. I have a question about my printer during the prints. In the video I attached, should my printer be that loud when printing, as in when my x axis moves. Also, How can I get rid of the ripples on the single side that is parallel with the x-axis.
(Video and Pics of First Print)
What a
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa
[email protected]
So the things I learned tonight:
That odd problem with my x-carriage was due to the fact when I was looking for the firmware I ASSUMED the copy on the google drive link was the current tuned one WRONG I grabbed the copy that therippa linked on the github moved my end stop back to the right flipped my extruder back and tried the "tuned" version. Well firs
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa
Well, I got my new E3D V6 Bowden setup up and running today, and just printed a test cube. I can't believe how much better the print quality is compared to the stock hotend. The difference is like using sidewalk chalk vs a fine tip mechanical pencil.
Pictures (and if you would STL files for the mount, bowden setup etc.). Would like to replace my hotend with a better one. Have he
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
I have not been changing my layer temps so will learn that. Do you think the string is from my extruder being to cold? I have 2 rolls of ABS I am learning with I also have a few rolls of PAL but do not want to try switching back and forth I have heard some horror stories. Would a picture of my prints help or do you know what I mean by stringy?
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Will make the X-carriage changes in next day or two. Printing some better filament guides right now. I have a 1/4 inch piece of 8x8 glass on my bed. I have been using hairspray. So far love it. My bed takes 10-15 minutes so not to bad then? and should the bed stay around 130 or lower it in the firmware?
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
So the things I learned tonight:
That odd problem with my x-carriage was due to the fact when I was looking for the firmware I ASSUMED the copy on the google drive link was the current tuned one WRONG I grabbed the copy that therippa linked on the github moved my end stop back to the right flipped my extruder back and tried the "tuned" version. Well first thing is my X would not move again then I
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
So I completed my first real print tonight!!! Hour and 10 minutes! A large L like filament guide. I had followed Tom's advice on how to tune my steppers plus I re leveled my bed. I turned my X and Z stepper drivers about 1/4 turn counter clockwise. My Z is now almost cool to the touch and my X while better is a little warm. So the thing I learned tonight is do not add a blowing fan during a pri
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Mine did that I had to flip the extruder plug wires. I took the 2 screws off that held the hot end on and watched which way it turned when I commanded it. Though as i get more familiar with the configuration file i bet there is an extruder direction 1 or -1 line that would do it too I bet.
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Is there a program more stable for printing from my windows 7 laptop then Repetier? I do not want to mess with python right now so I guess that rules out Octoprint. Little nervous about switching over to the LCD/SD reader. I need to trim up my X and Y values and level my bed better so right now using Repetier feels safer with the manual controls handy. I don't trust my X-axis not homing like my Y
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
I have the LCD and card reader had not installed them yet. And uhm ye about the lock up on the lap top "MAYBE" I was also watching archer during this lock up event. So yea what'd we learn? Where can I find information on how to attatch the LCD?
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
So I have yet to figure out my X-home issue but decided to try some prints anyways. I printed out a 20x20x20 cube and ended up with 20.5x20.5x18.5 was not alarmed since I suspected my bed leveling sucked looks like my first layer is just getting smeared and not extruded plus I would get clicks from my extruder as it tried to pull more filament in while unable to push any out against the glass.
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
I have switched them out and the problem is not in the end stop switches. Even checked them with M119 to verify them. Other people have this issue and have just said screw it since it prints fine. I just wish it acted like Y and z in repitier. I am thankfull for the suggestions though and will try anything I can.
by
[email protected]
-
Prusa i3 and variants
Page 3 of 5
Pages: 12345
