@buZztiaan are there enough of us then? I really would like to get a hobbed-bolt from Laszlo - hyena 2.0 style. Thanks!by mfeherpataky - Tantillus
I have used standard 8mm rods for all elements. Worked with no lathe, but a drill, sand paper and loads of patience. Fully metric Tantillus is up and running happily for few months. Having done that, however, now I would go the easy way now and buy 5/16" rods for the x-y axis. Saves you loads of time and makes assembly substantially faster. If you have access to a lathe I would do what @cfellowsby mfeherpataky - Tantillus
The clips on the rods are a great addition, but no lathe in my small workshop makes it difficult to implement. I have been running Tantillus on HTD 3mm belts with great results and and low noise. But every few hours of print I need to push the outer rods back into their place as they shift around 1-2 mm.by mfeherpataky - Tantillus
I am in as well. Have several things from Laszlo already and they are great. Hyena 2.0 looks mighty awesome.by mfeherpataky - Tantillus
I would suggest the following: - Move the spool slightly away as to have the smallest angle in between the filament entry path and the filament path to the extruder. - If the size of the opening for filament is indeed too small, do make it bigger by gently drilling... gently, otherwise you could end up with a cracked case. - Make sure edges of the opening for filament are smooth on both sides -by mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Ahhh... I usually take the glass out with the print. Especially now with the z-cable, when the bed drops 10mm+. However, left front makes it easier to understand when you look at what a slicer produces. But now with the bed model as a reference point wherever the home is it should be fine.by mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Yeap, you are right. My Tantillus is not very ortodox in its settings and while setting all up, I decided that home is front left. It is like on my other printer to keep it simple. Why did you decided to have home back right instead of front left? Attached is the rotated bed.by mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Kisslicer does produce great prints. It does have few quirks and misses brim feature, but Jonathan is promising to solve these out. There is an option to add a model of a print bed to a configuration of any defined printer you have. I find it great idea. While not necessary and bit gimicky, it is pretty cool. Just below you can download the model.by mfeherpataky - Tantillus
@Sublime - on the side note - how much you think one could scale x&y axis of Tantillus without altering the z-axis design?by mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Thanks for noticing it. - Lack of the hinge is not by design, but rather my lack of full understanding how z-lift and the tensioner should work together. I will print a new lift today with arms and make sure the hinge is there. - As for the tensioner not being closer to the lift - at the time of the assembly it was very tense already and getting it any closer felt like something would break. Nowby mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Here come the photos. Let me present you Tantillus from Europe. It is your original LC case with all metric rods, bolts and nuts. There is a small modification to the LC case - a SD card slot which I find a great addition and it uses cheap 2$/€ SD card reader from eBay. The printer uses @willworkforplastic printed elements, with exception of hotend carriage elements and all corners. Top rear corby mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Thank you Sublime! I took some time this weekend and build the cable z-carriage. It looks awesome, Works as advertised - gone is the wobble! Takes less volume inside the printer enclosure, Less noise. Issues I found: Lower bracket idler holder in github misses ziptie pass-through hole (not a biggie), Had to scale 102% the top idler wheel to fit on a bearing, 5mm drum is at a weird angle in giby mfeherpataky - Tantillus
I have the same, slightly wavey, z axis on Tantillus. The wire based z-lift looks mighty interesting. Any photos of a working installation? Also the GT2 3mm pulleys for X&Y is a great addition. My tantillus runs on these, though with HTD pulleys, already and with very good results and less much less noise.by mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Hi Tom, What kind of x carriage you use? The Arcol v4 should be used with the alu plate, as only this way it will be stable enough. Unlike j-head, you cannot mount it directly into an extruder without the alu-plate. The holes, 50mm apart, in the alu-plate corespond to holes in your extruder. It all should fit on a basic - prusa, mendelmax - x carriage.by mfeherpataky - General
Hi there again, 0.1-0.2 wrap evenly around the gear sounds great and nearly unnoticeable. I have a full bag of parts, some are flat as the glass bed supporting them, some have nearly no wrap, some I could use as a base for a rocking chair. The flat ones, though were printed at a lower temperature and layers did not bond well, so serve to no good. The good ones, have a minimal wrap that gives aby mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Problems you say, the layers lines of your printed parts are great! I thought I had a good working printer, but this is just amazing. I had some small wrapping issues with the gears as well, printed four sets already. Today I tried a non-coloured, cheap 16€/kg, PLA from www.reprapworld.com and got great flat and even gears. Maybe this would help. Small brim of 2-3mm also helps.by mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Hello there guys, After extensive use of V4 @ 0.5mm and 0.35mm I confirm that it is an excellent hot end. Though I probably would not recommend it to a reprap newbie as it is likely to fold under gentle abuse. Any unexpected Z-leveling problems, or bulldog clips at the base of the bed during high-speed travels and you may find yourself ordering a new stainless steel barel, which is crazy thin anby mfeherpataky - General
Hi guys, So what is your idea about metric Tantillus? Will it be merged back into Sublime's repo? Main repo already has directory for metric parts, where a lone z-lift reside. But this suggest they are interchangeable. I think that only XY axis has issue with the original case. The rest of metric parts - gears, Z-motor holder, extruder, should go without any problems with the original laser cuby mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Today, taking advantage of a slow Sunday, I started assembly of the Tantillus. The panels were cut few weeks back, so they are based on Sublime's original repo. As I started printing the parts, your metric redesign came along. I printed the metric ones assuming that there are no changes to size of any part. There I was with the original panels trying to fit the X/Y axis in and all seemed a bit mby mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Ups... That is not something I measured, and am still far from assembly.by mfeherpataky - Tantillus
@willworkforplastic - thank you for the metric conversion! The reversed reversed-grub-screws motor gear looks great. Could you post it and if possible have one for 4mm motor shaft as well? Many thanks, Michalby mfeherpataky - Tantillus
Thank you for a great and speedy response! It also explained other thing in BOM - the difference in between 5/16" and 8mm drill rods . On the leads-crew subject - do you think it would provide noticeable benefits vs a threaded rod in a machine this size? How the size translates into reliability of the singular threaded rod for the z-axis? I jumped, perhaps unnecessary, for a lead-screw solutionby mfeherpataky - Tantillus
The red fully-printed design looks great! I love it and am grateful it is to be released into open source. I am planing to make one once the design is published, and did contribute to the online campaign. My question is - how easy will it be to replace all the imperial measurements specific elements with metric ones? I had a glance at the BOM and there is 1/4" threaded rod. I want to replace itby mfeherpataky - Tantillus