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http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Tantillus
Re: Banding and failed/successful hacks to resolve it - 10 years ago
QuoteSublime Quotewillworkforplastic to the naked eye it does look really good and maybe I should just leave it at this........ Personally I would leave it. Yeah that is what I have done for now and the prints are coming out superb to the eye. I might just for interest sake make proper hobbed bolt just to see if it helps, but because I will have to get a gear cutter to make it, it will be a whby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Frying stepper drivers - 10 years ago
Yeah I have been through a lot of stepper drivers, mainly because I forget to plug the steppers back in correctly (stupid I know). I need a pololu dispenser on my garage wall...... But I have had three die due to dry joints, most likely because I run in the garage which is a bit humid and force air cool the ramps/stepper drivers. Plus the heat from running on 19V is probably not helping also. Oby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Banding and failed/successful hacks to resolve it - 10 years ago
@Wingnut - Thanks, to the naked eye it does look really good and maybe I should just leave it at this........ @Sublime (sorry the reply has taken a while) There was no Z-lift on these prints. Only thing is the cable print above was printed about 20% faster from memory. The testing I did before those photos was: Tried to DTI the glass bed in the machine with the ball screw in. Set the Z stepsby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Banding and failed/successful hacks to resolve it - 10 years ago
So I have made up a cable Z lift setup. I made the brackets a bit bulkier and machined the drum and upper idler to be sure they are circular from 7075 aluminium. I did change the drum diameter so that on the pitch circle of the cable I get 0.06mm per full step using a 0.9 deg stepper. So I will not bore you with all the testing but just the result: So It looks better. Also I have changed oby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Unexpected X-axis offset issue - 10 years ago
I had a similar issue a long time ago, except mine would 'shift' twice or 3 times through a similar print. Looked very similar to what you are getting. It just started happening one day, and after a lot of f'ing around I found it was caused by a shift in the seasons. I have a thermometer in my garage (for epoxy stuff) and in the winter when my printer was born the ambient temp was around 5-10oCby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Banding and failed/successful hacks to resolve it - 10 years ago
Right So I have Tried: Machining Up a precision solid coupler and fitting (not a good idea as there is no float) between motor and lead screw Putting 'thrust' bearing back in on top Z mount, I had taken it out to see if it would make a difference a while ago Printing with heated bed off Running Z really slowly (0.1mm/s, 0.05mm/s^2, jerk 0.05) Swaping Z/Y motor plugs over and pin defs in pins.h Mby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Banding and failed/successful hacks to resolve it - 10 years ago
I to am too having trouble understanding why the X/Y acceleration helped with this. A full step on my Z is 0.005mm so I will give running it in full step a go and see how it goes, it sounds to me like a more plausible solution to me. One other theory I have is that the step rate/frequency gets high then the audrino cannot handle it and funny things happen. So lowering the step/mm could be a goodby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Making Embossed letters stand out on models - 10 years ago
QuoteSublime Is the yellow ABS as well or is it red ABS in yellow PLA? It is yellow PLA and red ABS. MEK seems not to melt the PLA. If the embosed pocket was ABS I would say it would melt with the MEK and not be a sharp edge.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Banding and failed/successful hacks to resolve it - 10 years ago
So from day one I have been chasing the cause of this banding I am seeing on my models under the microscope. A part from way back under the microscope looks like this: So far here are the hacks I have tried on my Tantillus most are to try and stop this banding issue some. Some are just to be thorougher in this post: - Running on 19V since day one - 5V switcher on Audrino to handle higher suppby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Making Embossed letters stand out on models - 10 years ago
So with the Tantillus of course you only have one head, so only one color during a print. So I was doing a drill stand to tidy up my drills bits and thought how do I get text to stand out on the stand without two color printing. My original thought was I will embossed text into the stand and I'll get some UV cure paint to fill up the embossing. But I forgot to get some paint and saw my syringe fuby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Broken extruder - 10 years ago
Quotemaik Ah good idea with the epoxy, any recommendations for the type? I have used loctites poxy pac many a time for work and for home. Stuff's expensive though, works really well. If you are in the US I have heard good things about JB weld but I have never used them myself. I find the cheap two syringe type epoxies are alright but you really have to leave them for a few days to cure beforby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Broken extruder - 10 years ago
I have had a few things stress crack on me and come apart like that. Usually it is because I am pushing the mechanical properties of the part or the part was not printed so well. The best way I have found to repair is using solvent welding. Put the parts back together the way they are suppose to be and using a syringe with a fine needle (blunt dispensing needles are way safer than sharp ones alby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: The Auger Chewer - 11 years ago
Hmm interesting point about the filament swelling in the bowden tube never thought of that. What I might do when I get a chance is try and calculate the force required to shear the filament for various setups then try something based on that. Double hobbed bolts is an interesting idea also.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: The Auger Chewer - 11 years ago
Ah thanks sublime, I thought someone must have done this before. I'll shelf this idea as it is one of those good idea's which never work out in practice by the looks of it. With PLA the current extruder is great, just sometimes I have to adjust the flow rate up, but your probably right I am getting partial/blocks in the head, I'll check next time it happens. I have about 600N (60Kg or 132lb calcby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
The Auger Chewer - 11 years ago
So I have been doing a lot of work with accuracy which I'll cover in another post when I have got a definite result. But as I wait for a few more parts to come in I have come up with this crazy idea for an extruder. Not saying the current extruder is bad, actually is really good considering its simplicity but I seem to have to clean the hobbed bolt out every 1Kg of PLA. So I thought why not an auby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Burnt Regulator? - 11 years ago
I almost burnt out my 5V reg because I am running on 19V, I replaced it with a recom switching reg from memory one of these: =R-78Bxx-1.0(L)+R-78C+R-78xx-1.0by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Map of Tantillus's around the world - 11 years ago
Oh sweet I see some people have added pins, go forth and add pins people the system works!by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Solidworks Metric Assembly - 11 years ago
Ah HA! That is maybe why your prints look so god dam good and mine are just good (well it might have something to do with the amount of printing you have done also). I'll order some and try. Thanks for the tip.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Map of Tantillus's around the world - 11 years ago
Hi All, So I thought it a good idea that there be a shared google map of all the Tantillus's around the world. I am trying it out on google maps lite beta with not much luck to getting a public shared/editable map. Can someone try: 1. Logging onto: 2. Then pasting this link in the address bar: 3. Adding a pin in, via the pin button which should be up the top right hand corner beside the sby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Skewing - 11 years ago
I had this on mine and it was a combo of the drive train slipping and the stepper drivers over-heating in summer as I was driving them of 19V.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Solidworks Metric Assembly - 11 years ago
> Your machine has really evolved. Did you find all > the bracing was needed in the corners or just > overkill because you can? Yeah some days I recon I enjoy hacking the machine more than actually 3D printing stuff......... As for the bracing, the reason I did it was I was trying to solve that layer inconstancy I was having. I was always taught in machine building that rigidity is kinby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Solidworks Metric Assembly - 11 years ago
Right the boys smashed the printer good and I think that fixed the file corruption. There was some weird things happening with the pack and go zip of the SW files and some of the step/Iges files so sing out if they are broken etc.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Solidworks Metric Assembly - 11 years ago
Hmmm we seem to be experiencing some technical difficulties with getting my repo updated, looks like file corruption hopefully it is only my local repo and not my working directory, never fear I'll get the guys on the case: and hopefully it will be fixed in the next day or two.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Solidworks Metric Assembly - 11 years ago
Right finally got of my lazy arse and did some updates: @Sublime: X/Y Bars are now 170mm long. Changed from 175mm. Changed the Hotend double up on the BOM to a single line Removed two of the bulldog clips Drawing PDF now at REV B, so you might want to update the one on your website. @Goopyplastic: Thanks for picking up the M4 nut mistake in the carriage, I have changed them to M3 now. @Plexer:by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: "The Keep it Dry" - 11 years ago
Just a note I have updated the files for this on github for this. Added two braces to the door to prevent the door warping and the foam seal breaking. Also I will get onto fixing "bugs" in the metric design this weekend hopefully.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Printing Taulman 618 Nylon on Tantillus - 11 years ago
SkyArcher Wrote: > What do you have for a heated bed? Custom CNC aluminium platter with silicone heating wire in it, have a look at:by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Tantillus Upgade - 11 years ago
Nice mod on the e-clips, my solution was loctite wicking grade, but now I am fearing the day I have to take things apart. Watch out with Corain I think the glass transition temp is 100oC. I wanted to try Macor for mine, but so far the PEEK thermal break has been running fine up to head temps of 240oC, so I have not bothered yet.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Printing Taulman 618 Nylon on Tantillus - 11 years ago
So I have been AWL, for a bit however over the last few months in my very limited spare time I have been playing around with Taulmans Nylon 618, and I thought I post up some things I learned with it for anybody interested. You can view all the photo's here: The plan was to print a Tantillus gear set in Nylon so I set about first trying bed materials to stick to. First was blue tape (all these dby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Updates - 11 years ago
Sweet, cant wait to get some models into it. Do you know if they have bridging in it yet? Or is it still a while away for that?by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Re: Solidworks Metric Assembly - 11 years ago
Sorry for the late reply chaps, stuck in Thailand in a clean room trying to explain things to thai people in english.......... sigh. @Sublime All good on drawings, I will make changes and put your name in the checked box. Then update the repository. Cheers for hosting them on your site I to was getting worried about the size of the repo. Good to see they where not a waste of my time as well. @Pby willworkforplastic - Tantillus