Quoteneildarlow @goopyplastic: Have you enabled the Thermal Runaway Protection feature? I can see a possible scenario where it might trigger and halt your printer without notice. The default settings for the Heated Bed Thermal Runaway Protection have just 2 degrees hysteresis and with normal on-off temperature control this may not be sufficient. I do not enable this feature by default althoughby goopyplastic - Mendel90
Here is the gcode I was trying to print if someone gets really bored. It prints 2 fairly small little pieces sliced with KISSlicer. This is setup for heated bed and PLA.by goopyplastic - Mendel90
Just throwing my experience in here: I tried the new firmware and when I printed the printer would stop after a few layers. I uploaded the gcode to the sd card, printed from it and disconnected from the computer to make sure it wasn't a gcode sending issue on the pc side, same problem a few layers in. I flashed back to nopheads firmware and it prints fine.by goopyplastic - Mendel90
This is intended for GRBL which doesn't use arduino's bootloader, so changing the pins would require writing the firmware through the icsp port not something everyone can do. But maybe I should switch to solder jumpers to save space / time / cost. Should all three ms pins of the driver go through the pulldown resistor? I notice ramps only does it to ms1by goopyplastic - Controllers
Well the idea is that you would change the step and dir jumpers to match the axis your gcode is wanting instead of having to change the gcode.by goopyplastic - Controllers
Making a single axis grbl shield for arduino, you can use jumpers to set which axis you want to use, and microstepping jumpers for microstepping. See anything glaringly wrong? (schematic) (board) Thanks! Goopyby goopyplastic - Controllers
I honestly don't remember if I needed to switch directions or not, I want to say I didn't. As for esteps, I was using a value of 95 for E_STEPS_PER_MMby goopyplastic - Mendel90
I would imagine the main reason that makerbot is using 1.75mm is that direct drive extruders aren't strong enough for 3mm. On a bot where the extruder moves in both X and Y the weight / size of the extruder is important so 1.75 is important.by goopyplastic - Mendel90
I have an option for 1.75mm on a mendel90 using the Ezstruder here:by goopyplastic - Mendel90
I have a month old Mendel90 kit that was purchased from Nophead that has been assembled and calibrated. I like the printer very much, but building and selling printers is a bit of a hobby for me and am looking to sell the printer to make room for the next. The printer prints incredibly well and I have had no problems with it. If you are in southern California, anywhere from say Salinas to San Diby goopyplastic - For Sale
I had some time today to get this working, need to reprint the carriage in ABS as I had a few cracks from popping the bearings in with my PLA carriage. In the current version the nozzle sits 1.3mm lower than stock which is nice. What I did for routing fan power was connect the unused zprobe pin to ground (I tied it into one of the power resistor grounds) then used the positive from the hotend (lby goopyplastic - Mendel90
Thanks for the interest, I hope to have it printing this weekend and will update the thread when it is. The carriage is the same width with the fan installed as the stock one, it actually tucks under the x carriage, it only looks like it is partly sticking out because I modified one of the corners on the x carriage and made it shallower.by goopyplastic - Mendel90
While the 3mm is working great for me, I have a ton of 1.75mm left over, I also find translucent PLA to be easier to find in 1.75 so I have wanted to get a direct drive extruder going for awhile. I really like the polish of the EZStruder from seemecnc so I made a little mounting system for it. I am not super comfortable using 1.75mm PLA without active jhead cooling so I modified the x carriage toby goopyplastic - Mendel90
very cool!by goopyplastic - Tantillus
I have a month old Mendel90 kit that was purchased from Nophead that has been assembled and calibrated. I like the printer very much, but building and selling printers is a bit of a hobby for me and am looking to sell the printer to make room for the next. The printer prints incredibly well and I have had no problems with it. If you are in southern California, anywhere from say Salinas to San Diby goopyplastic - For Sale
yonray Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > @goopyplastic > > Is it possible you could post the solidworks files > for the printed parts or you could email me, > yonray@yahoo.com. > It would be greatly appreciated! It is a bit messy, so check the assembly file to see what pby goopyplastic - Tantillus
If I recall correctly, it is about 22.2mm they are a press fit but don't need that much pressure to go in. Granted I only tried printing them on my i3 which was only reasonably calibrated. Are you noticing them being too tight or loose? I know Arc Tesla has since printed the files he might have some feedback as well. I can provide different diameters if requested.by goopyplastic - Tantillus
Looking good, I think Sublime mentioned that drilling the shafts may not really be necessary and that he was running a machine without holes and it was working out fine.by goopyplastic - Tantillus
Thanks for the heads up. I changed the baud speed in the boards.txt on your melzi folder so it would work with the mighty bootloader and it seems to be working fine nowby goopyplastic - Mendel90
I just finished putting together my kit and am going through the electronics. I had a melzi already that I got from matterfy.com it came with the Migthy1284P optiboot bootloader so I am using the arduino addon for selecting the board when uploading. When I upload nopheads firmware I get a maxtemp trigger on the nozzle initially, then I get mintemp errors. The bed temp shows up fine. If I graby goopyplastic - Mendel90
Converted my PSU over according to the m90 instructions and noticed it was putting out 13.4v. Obviously this is an unloaded value but wondering if it is safe to use with the melzi? Or if I should just switch to a bench style PSU.by goopyplastic - Mendel90
By reading this I am assuming that you can't just connect together the 12v1 and 12v2 lines? Do the PSU's you supply in the kit not have the 12v2 rail and just a higher rating on the 12v1? And your suggestion with the heated bed is to connect the positive lead of the headed bed to the 12v2 wires, but still ground the heated bed through the melzi correct? Thanks!by goopyplastic - Mendel90
Awesome, let me know if you have any questions would love to see someone else make one. I think the beefy Z option is ready to go and I have updated the github, I assembled mine tonight and will be testing it tomorrow. Definitely overkill and not necessary ... but then again so is this whole project @stratmaster458 all of the files are in my github LINK however it is currently geared towardsby goopyplastic - Tantillus
> On your github page I cannot find the 3d parts for > the internal bar clamps nor the extrusion motor > mount. Am I missing something obvious? The extrusion motor mount is just the airtripper v3 it will work unmodified As for the internal bar clamps I am using the normal tantillus parts for everything else. I am currently working on different Z axis mounting (printing it right now acby goopyplastic - Tantillus
Looking great, I love the printed case and think I may have to give it a shot myself someday. Do you have a picture of the spool from tinkerine? I saw them at makerfair san mateo and they were cool guys and I loved the pla colors. I am trying to figure out if the pla is the same as that sold by justpla as the colors seem pretty identical but the price is cheaper. Pic I took of the awesome colorby goopyplastic - Tantillus
I do believe that os1r1s used the qu-bd 40mm steppers in his tantillus.by goopyplastic - Tantillus
> 1) Change the TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME and/or > TEMP_HYSTERESIS (Tantillus Marlin uses 10 and 4) > > 2) Turn off PID (Tantillus Marlin is set to Bang > Bang). I am curious to hear why you chose these settings.by goopyplastic - Tantillus
It looks like my Z had some user induced play in it. In the process of fixing it up. I had a question though, what do you think about running the SD8825 stepper drivers from panucatt for 1/32? should give the cable Z back some of it's resolution for low layer heights? Also thinking about running it on my airtripper I hear if you increase the current setting from 1/16 you won't lose torque or genby goopyplastic - Tantillus
So it only took me 3 months I haven't finished tidying everything up 100% but here she is: And here is a video of the head printing. Only issue I am having now is a void in the seam on layer change, I noticed this on my m2 running kisslicer also so this must be some kiss setting. (edit: wipe seems like the culprit) Video of Zombie Hunter Head Printby goopyplastic - Tantillus