I recommend NetFabb Cloud for fixing up STLs -- , it's free, fast, and has fixed almost everything I've thrown at it. Some of the Tantillus STLs I had to run through more than once (notably the extruder body) before I got a good toolpath out of Kisslicer or Cura.by j.samuels - Tantillus
The extruder spacer can be found in the carriage_middle file, it's not part of all_panels. I expect this is because it needs to be cut from 3mm material and not 6mm like the other lasercut parts. Sublime can you confirm? It wasn't clear from the wiki, but I measured the STLs and this seems to be the case. BTW, is there any reason we can't print the extruder spacer?by j.samuels - Tantillus
Are you able to replicate the issue I described about slicing the Tantillus printed parts with Kisslicer? I'm still building my Tantillus but I've used Kisslicer extensively on other printers (Prusa, Ultimaker) and it's the best slicer I've found, from a quality and speed of slicing perspective. I've found that it is a bit aggressive on retraction and seems to generate a bit less efficient pathby j.samuels - Tantillus
Hmm, the images show up as 1000x1000 for me, I'm using Chrome : http://i.imgur.com/FENix.pngby j.samuels - Tantillus
Looks good, great work! Some feedback, the large images make it a little difficult to use as I have to scroll so much on the page. Maybe change to smaller images / thumbnails with a click-to-zoom lightbox? I don't know how diverse you want the store to be, and by that I mean... how much different SKUs do you want to stock?? But it might be nice to have some more kits... I'm thinking a print-youby j.samuels - Tantillus
Yes, it's Sublime's version from git. Cura does slice the mesh without generating the extraneous toolpaths, but it does log errors with the mesh. So I think it's just a matter of Kisslicer not handling the mesh errors in a nice fashion. Here is the Cura log: File C:\Tantillus\Extruder\Extruder.stl is being chain exported. Warning, the triangle mesh slice intersects itself in getLoopsFromCorrectMby j.samuels - Tantillus
I'm not sure if this is a problem with the STLs or if it's a problem with Kisslicer, but I'm seeing toolpaths generated that are floating in space outside the part. See this for example: link to large image, it was breaking forum wrap: http://i.imgur.com/fzbbW.png Maybe a little hard to see, but all those circled areas are floating in space and not part of the object model. I was able to fixby j.samuels - Tantillus
You can add arbitrary brim to any STL with this SCAD script: Another thing I've found to help with 1st layer is putting down 2 layers of blue tape instead of 1 (adjust your Z axis to compensate), I get less curling and better adhesion. I don't know why it is.by j.samuels - Tantillus
Tinkercad can import and export STLs and is free.by j.samuels - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sorry for not answering earlier I just became a > dad a few days ago and things have been crazy. > > I used 42BYGHW with the kits. Any of the > recommended RepRap steppers will work fine as long > as they are less than 40mm long. Thanks -- and congratulations!by j.samuels - Tantillus
Is there a recommended part# for the stepper motors, or spec (torque, resistance, step size, etc.), or... what stepper did you ship with the kits? I have some steppers handy from Lin, 4218L-01-11, but they are too long, at ~47mm body length. I assume since it's standard reprap electronics that the usual recommended steppers are fine, just wanted to make sure.by j.samuels - Tantillus
Thanks for the advice. Brim looks quite helpul, I didn't get Slic3r tweaked well enough yet to get good objects off the printer I'm using, so I guess I have something to do now!by j.samuels - Tantillus
Correct, the 3M painters tape (#2090) has a coating which will keep paint from penetrating it. I think it might be a wax, and not a plastic -- but whatever it is, knock-off brands of tape don't seem to have it. Also, there is a green painter's tape (#2060) which works just as well, and it has a stronger adhesive so it will stick better to glass or acrylic. For printing PLA on an unheated bed, I'vby j.samuels - Tantillus
Hmm, good point. I printed the first piece (Base_1.stl) and have around 1 mm curl along the bottom printed edge. The curling actually pulled the blue tape off the acrylic build platform (I'm printing on Ultimaker) at the corners of the print, I never saw this happen before. I will need to tweak and reprint I think. But I don't have a heated bed (yet).by j.samuels - Tantillus
Would it be possible to make a 2-part or 3-part printable case, for printing on machines with a 200mm x 200mm build area (e.g. Prusa, Mendel Max, etc)? It would eliminate many of the connector plates and quite a few fasteners. And I think it would make the case more rigid and robust as well as more accurate, since any variance from poor connector fit would be along the Z axis only? I started workby j.samuels - Tantillus
Very good, I was able to get this working now by changing the baud rate to match the firmware configuration. Very silly thing to overlook but it's all so complex... Thanks!by j.samuels - Controllers
VDX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ... try with Arduino 0023 or older, there are > issues with 1.0 and above ... Yes, I was able to compile with 0018 but after uploading the firmware I get a slow red blinking light from the motherboard and I can no longer connect with ReplicatorG.by j.samuels - Controllers
I was given a set of generation 3 “Tech Zone Remix” electronics from a friend who purchased them a long time ago but never used them. I found some documentation for it here: and here: I was able to get the electronics all wired up and connected to my PC, and connect to the electronics using ReplicatorG by choosing “Cupcake” for the machine type - I was told and also read that it comes defaulby j.samuels - Controllers