What is the proper/ideal spec for the resistor? I need to order a new one as well. I can't see it in the BOM anywhere.by Hobocop - Tantillus
Thanks, was able to test it today with a friends multimeter. We measured about 19V, and 45 kohms.by Hobocop - Tantillus
Just found the other similar thread on page 3. Seems like the symptoms are the same (red light comes on, thermister is reading the temp. correctly). But I feel like this same issue came up once before and Sublime had a quick fix for it when he was in our office. I just can't remember what it wasby Hobocop - Tantillus
Trying to get the tantillus set up again and started having an issue... The temperature just isn't moving. It started doing this once I had the tantillus hooked up to a new computer and installed the drivers/pronterface. First trial print it heated up to about 180, then the hotend seemed to shut off and won't start heating up again. This happens even when the tantillus is not connected to the coby Hobocop - Tantillus
Thanks guys, I took the extruder motor out of the assembly and ran a test-print, and the motor did not turn at all. It can be turned manually with little effort no problem. I will look over the instructions and try to figure out where to turn the current down. Additionally, the temperature does fluxuate a lot more than it did previously when hooked up to pronterface. Typically it heats up VERYby Hobocop - Tantillus
Just started running the Tantillus after a few weeks off. Did a test print Yoda head yesterday, and it worked fine up until about 95%, then the extruder gear seemed to just stop turning. No skips on the motor or anything, and it doesn't look like it's jammed or trying to turn. Was able to unload and re-load the filament and it would stop/go/stop/go at regular intervals but otherwise worked fine.by Hobocop - Tantillus
I flipped the Z coupler and it definitely helped. The end that was previously on the threaded rod was considerably worn. Any advice on a noisy extruder? Something in that assembly sounds like it's strangling a goose every time the filament retracts back and forth during the travel parts of every print. Another random question... for some reason, when a layer has a very sharp point in the geometby Hobocop - Tantillus
I swapped back to the red filament, still @ 250 flow speed, and a simpler print turned out great. Z coupler has let go of the threaded rod a few times lately - any suggestions? Maybe remove the coupler and flip upside-down? I have a backup printed worst case scenario.by Hobocop - Tantillus
Couple pictures attached. WARNING: GRAPHIC CONTENT, NOT SUITABLE FOR EXPERIENCED REP-RAPPERS (Ignore the skipped steps near the top, that was another issue due to computer freezing up)by Hobocop - Tantillus
I reduced it in the Arduino interface per the tutorial page. Now reads: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {122.5,122.5,2514.628,250} I have checked on the machine itself and it is running at 250. Anything higher seemed to make the filament ooze out very thick - the perimeter laps at the start of a print were over 1mm wide on the first lap. Currently printing, been running for a couple hours aby Hobocop - Tantillus
Update: Played with the temperature and flow speed settings a lot... Settled on original temperature settings (190) and have the flow reduced to 250. It's a little closer to the way it used to print but still slightly too thick. I found reducing the temperature too much made the filament not stick very well to the print bed. Could the filament itself make a difference? We started using red, thenby Hobocop - Tantillus
Vaseline seems to have helped the X axis issue! The filament still feels like it's coming out way too thick. Pic attached, sorry for low quality but you can still see it's quite droopy. The extruder screws are set very loose, not sure what else to try, reduce temperature maybe?by Hobocop - Tantillus
Thanks, I moved it along the X axis back and forth several times and noticed it was sticking a little near the center. Moved it a few more times and eventually it started to feel better... Tested a print and it worked for quite a while longer but eventually had the same problem. I will try vaseline tomorrow and see if that helps, thanks!by Hobocop - Tantillus
Update: May have moved slightly in the positive direction for X on the latest test. Also, the filament tends to come out much thicker than usual which seems to be causing some resistance and making the bed shake around quite a bit. Fill density is only 0.3 yet the hex infill extrudes almost solid.by Hobocop - Tantillus
Hey all, Lately our Tantillus has been skipping steps usually somewhere in the first few layers. It prints normally at first, then the coordinates become off roughly -10mm on the X axis. If I leave it printing, it eventually moves the print another -10mm, toward 0, and so on. Y axis seems fine. I have tried adjusting the corresponding gears a few times with no luck. Could it be the current to tby Hobocop - Tantillus