Hi all, After a few month with my Tantillus sleeping in its case, I decided to try using the new taulman bridge. But after a few test prints, it seems I can't use my Tantillus at all : when the print start, the nozzle move from 0.0 to its correct beginning position and then zip right to the opposite corner, 10.10, extruding on the way. The behavior occured from time to time before, but now itby Nico3ck - Tantillus
Pin added, right over my printerby Nico3ck - Tantillus
I build my tantillus using wwfp metric files, whithout any problems. You will maybe need to adjust some nut sizes, but it's not something major. For the hobbed bolt, you can make one yourself, check it thereby Nico3ck - Tantillus
The first tamper (N) has a 46.5° angle overhang. Since it printed nicely, I increased the overhang to 43.3° - still nice If anybody needs a coffée tamper, I can share the source (solidworks) or .stl files. For the frame parts, I need to check what would be better printed or just cut from plywood, but maybe I'll print everything to get a full green clock. Just don't know yet.by Nico3ck - Tantillus
Well, that's the trick, I didn't designed the gears I bought the clock plan, which include a 3d vue. But several tools exists to design gears, a parametric script can be found on thingiverseby Nico3ck - Tantillus
Here are a few pics of some of my Tantillus's prints : First are somes clock gears, the purpose is to build a working clock then cast (aluminum) the gears. The paper's squares are 5mm. Source is here, but each gear as been printed at 50% Then, my first really usefull object, a coffe tamper. 2 models for 2 machines. Works really well & improve the brew !by Nico3ck - Tantillus
I'm using your settings, tweeked to fit my machine: - retractation speed 49 - flow 408 - fan alway at 50 % (mine is to big to run at 100%) - speed 100%, tested ok up to 175% (but the motor noise upset me )by Nico3ck - Tantillus
I'm using a 4mm ptfe tube with some 3mm pla, seems to be working fine.by Nico3ck - Tantillus
I had some problems with my 8mm rods, the help of a hammer and some pieces of wood were needed to force 2 bearings onto the rods (but it was ok for the other)by Nico3ck - Tantillus
I used your metric files, in France finding imperial screws or rods is very difficult.by Nico3ck - Tantillus
Here are a few picture taken during the build, and my comments "Strucure" pieces, printed by by Ghun from the french forum Cables, motors, bearings Screws Fans (I did not used theses ones but a larger one), gears, electronics Encoder, lcd screen and cable kit Starting j-head build j-head done, ready to take fly Work started on the hobbed bolt Montage de la partie fixe de l'exrudby Nico3ck - Tantillus
J'ai du enlever le kapton des roulements, ça bloquait lors de la mise en place; le bruit viens principalement d'un engrenage légèrement en diagonale, mais ça c'est atténué depuis. Pour les réglages, me reste la vitesse de rétractation; le volume d'extrusion est quasi parfait, la tête ne bave presque plus. J'ai eu du mal avec l'axe Z et l'extrusion, ma tige filetée n'étant pas aux mêmes cotes Z sby Nico3ck - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
L'idée d'une reprap me tentant depuis déjà pas mal de temps, la Tantillus de Ghunt m'a fait passé du coté construction; voici quelques photos prises au cours du montage et mes commentaires. Les pièces de structures, imprimées par Ghunt (merci à toi !) Moteurs, cable, roulements et stubs Visserie Electronique, engrenages et ventilos (j'en utiliserais finalement d'autres) Encoder, encranby Nico3ck - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
The motors tends to "sing" when printing something round, this can be this noice you are talking about. As my X and Y slipped twice during calibration, I upped a little the current going to the motors. While printing my fan mount, I noticed the gears are rattling a bit when going rapidly from side to side, in certain positions. After my cables got loose (I over tightned them and they slepped onby Nico3ck - Tantillus
Well, no change after cleaning a bit more the 2 pads ... It seems my lcd is cooked. Do you have some lcd left ? If yes, I'd like to order another - if you could solder it and test it on your printer I'll gladdly pay for the extra. For some good news, my Tantillus is up and running, some fine tuning is still going on (axis step by unit atm, there are still some small ridge forming due to an oveby Nico3ck - Tantillus
After scratching my head for a while, I re-checked every wires, and when I was re-reading the post I found that the first picture was not showing rightly the red & brown wire. Just after the bend, they twist and the brown is plugged in what seems the red and vice-versa - theses wires don't need to be reversed. So since the 7th we are trying to work on a something that can't work that way, thby Nico3ck - Tantillus
The pot's back legs don't touch the center leg. Here is what I found between the solder points : 1 <> 2 : 0.94 2 <> 3 : 0.10 3 <> 4 : 0.6 4 <> 5 : 0.2 5 <> 6 : 0.2 6 <> 7 : 0.6 14 <> 15 : 0.1by Nico3ck - Tantillus
I checked j3, there is no jumper betwin the 2 little bits of solder Turning the pots des nothing. Between 1 and 16, I mesured about 1v. Without the lcd, the arduino lights up nicely, but with the lcd plugged in, no reaction (no lights, no sounds)by Nico3ck - Tantillus
I uploaded twice the same image ... This is why sleep is nedeed from time to time !by Nico3ck - Tantillus
After some soldering, it's still the same. Here is a picture of what it looks like: From right to left : 1 - brown + black (goes to 5) 2 - red + red (goes to 2nd pot right leg) + 1st pot right leg 3 - 1st pot front leg 4 - orange 5- 1st pot left leg + black (goes to 1) 6 - yellow 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - 11- green 12 - blue 13 - purple 14 - gray 15 - 2nd pot front leg 16 - 2nd pot left legby Nico3ck - Tantillus
Nope, it isn't this. I trided to switch the wires but the printer does not boot in this config (no lights)by Nico3ck - Tantillus
Petite update : Extrusion du pla : OK Déplacement des axes X, Y, Z : OK (dans le bon sens) Calibration basique : OK Cables en bordel partout : OK Soudures douteuses de certains cables : OK Me reste à faire fonctionner l'écran lcd, qui pour le moment reste désespérément noir, et roule ! Une fois mes premières pièces imprimées je ferais un gros de photos accompagnés de mes commentaires sur laby Nico3ck - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Yesterday I finally finished building / preping my Tantillus; x, y & z are moving, extruder is extruding. But (as everything can't be perfect) my lcd screen doesn't light up. Is there something wrong with the way i've plugged it in ? if no I'll add some picture of the solered wires tonight. edit wiring : The goo-like stuff is silicon; I put some because I feared the wires would touch,by Nico3ck - Tantillus
If you can, use a drill press at a slow speed, and put some oil on your drill. Marking the rod with a center punch will also help (your drill won't slip)by Nico3ck - Tantillus
Thanks, it's done. It could be a bit nicer, but it will work ! I'll keep you updated.by Nico3ck - Tantillus
My left rotating switch does not seems to be soldered as yours. What I see on your .jpg, from the left, is : 1 - brown 2 - long red + left back leg 3 - front leg 4 - orange + short red 5 - right back leg Is that right ? the rest seems ok.by Nico3ck - Tantillus
Hi all, I've started my tantillus build, taking pictures as I progress, I'll put them here later when I'm finished. It's looking good so far, I'm still waiting some parts before putting everything's together. I'm a bit stuck at the endstop soldering; I don't know which wire goes to which pole. - S (yellow) should go to C - gnd (black) NC or NO ? - +5 (red) NC or NO ? Could somebody helpby Nico3ck - Tantillus
Oui, ça avance petit à petit, j'essaie de faire les choses bien J'ai mon plexi découpé, ça a couté bien plus cher que prévu, mais bon, faut savoir sortir la cb par moment ! Me manque juste les lm8suu, Sublime les avait oublié dans le coli - ils doivent être en transit. Sinon, pour remplacer les roulements linéaires, j'ai pensé à des des guides imprimés en nylon (http://taulman3d.com/index.htmby Nico3ck - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Du fil de pêche nylon classique, non, il faut obligatoirement de la tresse fine et résistante (ex: ) Le lms8uu peut sans doute être imprimé (des guides imprimés sont d'ailleurs utilisés). Il est tout à fait possible d'ajouter un bed, mais vu la surface d'impression ce n'est à priori pas nécessaireby Nico3ck - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Salut, J'ai commencé l'assemblage de ma tantillus, il me manque encore 2 petites pièces oubliée par un fournisseur. Pour le moment pas d'écueil majeur, quelques petits problèmes réglés facilement (ou pas) : - ressorts permettant de plaquer le filament sur la hobbed bolt à la fois trop longs et trop fort (j'ai pris des boulons trop courts également, ça aide pas), problème réglé en enlevant desby Nico3ck - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone