Just because it's been so quiet around here...a quick update. I recently replaced the PLA gears on one of my Tantillus machines with Taulman nylon (actually, one set is 'Bridge' and the other is 910). This was really a test to see how it would sound/perform. The result was considerably less noise, the nylon doesn't 'clack' like the PLA. (I've also got ABS gears on another Tantillus...louder thaby robster34 - Tantillus
Thank you. Having that website back up is a huge benefit to the community. If there's anything we can do to compensate Sublime for this (hosting fees, etc.), please let us know.by robster34 - Tantillus
QuoteTraumflug Anyways, if a Tantillus deviates substantially from a Mendel regarding configuration, please upload such a configuration here or send it by email and I'll happily add it to the repo. Even display stuff is almost done in Teacup, the next few days I'll finish this up. And I could benefit from a bit help, because I was never a display addict, so I have not much of an idea on what toby robster34 - Tantillus
QuoteTraumflug Quoterobster34Unless you MUST have Teacup, using the original firmware might eliminate some frustration Doesn't sound like you ever used Teacup firmware. Teacup makes a lot of tasks actually easier. No offense intended!!! Just noting that the Tantillus Marlin has all the configurations done, including the custom LCD menu. One less set of variables to mess with as the hardware iby robster34 - Tantillus
My thoughts: - study the early phases of this forum as the topic of print speed was discussed at length - Either use the original Marlin firmware or replicate those settings in TeaCup. Unless you MUST have Teacup, using the original firmware might eliminate some frustration - Print fast! That's one of the takeaways from this printer. You can get much better features with a well-tuned printer scrby robster34 - Tantillus
I hope this thread doesn't discourage anyone from building a Tantillus printer. You can run the printer with any tool chain, though Sublime fine-tuned his prints around Kisslicer. The printer is exceptionally precise, and the Tantillus calculator gave a set of quick-start values that assured exceptional print quality on any properly built Tantillus. You can get the same results on Tantillus withoby robster34 - Tantillus
The loss of the calculator is a tragedy. Those settings were well thought out and difficult to replicate.by robster34 - Tantillus
Just to confirm what others have speculated...I had real problems adjusting the stepper current on my Tantillus printers. I use a variety of a4988 driver suppliers. Too little current and the motors wouldn't reliably follow the steps. Too much, and it would skip occasionally (particularly at high speed). What eventually worked for me was to get very thorough about adjusting the current. I don'by robster34 - Tantillus
FWIW...none of my three Tantillus' were that loose when built. After building them, I usually spent a couple days running test prints with each, tightening the cables, and squaring up the axis. It's an iterative process as the cable drives settle in and you tighten the slack on each cable. As long as you can move the carriage back and forth (I usually have to press both sides of the rod to do sby robster34 - Tantillus
I'm not familiar with the dimensions of WWFP's metric build, but you might want to check on the thickness of the acrylic spacer in the carriage. On my first build, I had a 6mm carriage spacer - it should have been 3mm. It caused severe binding when assembled. They're typically a little tight when you first build the machine, but nothing that you'd call 'binding'.by robster34 - Tantillus
I'm guessing you haven't tried the M302 command, allowing cold extrusion?by robster34 - Tantillus
You're killing me. Your step-by-step reporting has inspired (forced) me to assemble another Tantillus out of parts I have on hand. I'm sure it'll be months before it's running, though...by robster34 - Tantillus
I've never tried to string the printer inverted. I'm surprised you've got enough access through the case holes - and wouldn't it be impossible to string the back X-axis rod?by robster34 - Tantillus
That looks really good...neat and tidy. Since it's not a printed case, stringing the axes should be significantly easier. Thanks for the photos!!by robster34 - Tantillus
One comment on the 'tedious task' of stringing the cables... It's much easier to get access to the interior when the extruder and/or the Z carriage is removed. Both are relatively simple to remove/install as modules since they bolt to the case. Stringing isn't really that bad, if you get a couple long nosed tools to help. I used a couple medical forceps which really made it easy. Each loose endby robster34 - Tantillus
I think you'll be very happy with the finished machine. I never measured the runout on my rods...though I'd have to think about whether you'll see any significant artifacts in the prints. If you're willing to wait a couple days for the delivery, Enco has the 5/16" drill rod on sale this month for $4.38 apiece (3 foot length). You can always replace them later if needed, but you'll end up restrinby robster34 - Tantillus
Thanks for shipping me the Tantillus parts! They look great!by robster34 - Tantillus
Only my opinions... I really enjoy Tantillus - it's my favorite printer and I have two. (I'll be building another thanks to drakkn.) The resulting prints are incredibly precise and the printer itself is highly portable. People love to watch it work. However - I'm not convinced it's a suitable printer for first-timers or children. My printers from Maker's Tool Works are considerably easier to dby robster34 - Tantillus
Only the z axis has an endstop. X and Y are homed by placing the carriage in the back right corner when powering on.by robster34 - Tantillus
Quotejaguarking11 I am planning on building a spin off of this printer to sit on my desk. My delta printer is huge and needs its own table. This sized printer would be great for small parts. You'll find that this printer builds *very* precise parts when tuned properly. Sublime put a lot of work into a calibration process which, when carefully followed, produces the best results of all my printerby robster34 - Tantillus
I hate to see this printer go dark, as it's a great project for newbies with little cash and limited space. I'll pay for the hosting fee if we can get the site back up.by robster34 - Tantillus
I'm almost ready to commission my second Tantillus - with a printed case rather than acrylic. Has anyone created a 'hang off the side' spool holder, like the ones used for the acrylic case, for the printed version? I've got enough design work on my plate.by robster34 - Tantillus
It seems to be up right now. Another question for Sublime is whether we can or should capture the Calculator algorithms for offline use. I find them to be absolutely invaluable as I change printer parameters and I'm more than a little concerned that someday I won't have access to that information in the future.by robster34 - Tantillus
Have you checked the diameter of your filament? Perhaps it's unusually large. Can you try a different piece of filament (a different roll)? If you're trying to push it all the way through the nozzle, are you sure your temperature is high enough? - Try raising it 15 degrees C - Does the temperature ramp seem reasonable as you monitor its progress on your LCD screen or PC? If the hotend is OKby robster34 - Tantillus
Quoth Sublime: "Are the X and Y gears secure on the motor shafts?" And the gears on the rods. In my very limited experience, your print artifacts are consistent with a gear that's able to wiggle slightly on a shaft infrequently.by robster34 - Tantillus
Your last picture looks to me like you've got a layer shift in one dimension (x or y). On one side of the model, there's a cut inward, and exactly opposite is a layer bulge. I'd study that axis closely.by robster34 - Tantillus
This particular roll from a reputable merchant measured a very consistent, round 2.98 mm each time I checked and recorded it prior to every print. ...except every 20-30 feet when it suddenly expanded to 3.05 mm for a couple inches and dragged in my bowden tube. I had to unroll quite a bit to find a problem section. I replaced the roll, restored the original Tantillus.org calculator andby robster34 - Tantillus
A quick removal of the tube from the carriage following an overnight failure found the blunt end of the filament suspended about 1 cm above the plug deep in the hot end. (I measured and compared the distance between the bottom of the nut and the end of the filament versus the depth from the bottom of the nut to the cold, hard PLA plug still remaining in the hotend.) I didn't have time to heat tby robster34 - Tantillus
Quotezungmann Have you tried pushing the filament manually ie by hand? Is it easy or hard? My experiences 'jam' in the cold zone of the hotend can cause this problem. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I can push filament through their by hand. It's relatively easy. I *have* had problems with strings in the tube blocking the cold zone, but never during the middle of a print.by robster34 - Tantillus
I'm looking for ideas. I've been playing with the printer and love its resolution and speed. However, I'm having ongoing problems with the extruder. It'll print fine for 30 to 60 minutes, and then the plastic starts to get sparse...every other layer seems to have 50% of the plastic coming out of the nozzle. Increasing the extrusion temperature helped a little, as did really cranking down on theby robster34 - Tantillus