QuoteLucasGelf To Flemming again, did everything work natively? The power supply? The motors? Did you have to modify anything? Thanks, Lucas Everything worked fine once all the various bits were fine tuned. The only unique things I recall are: I only used one trim pot on the LCD for brightness because the contrast one never seemed to work right, I added an extra washer to the bottom of the extby flemming - Tantillus
QuoteLucasGelf Sounds great!! I have actually modified your spreadsheet to work with the Tantillus Printed version but I had a couple questions. To flemming - what is Sheet3 on your spreadsheet? I was wondering if these were actually needed or of some help on the build? That was just me keeping notes of links when I was shopping around for various bits. A lot of that is from when I thought I waby flemming - Tantillus
QuoteLucasGelf Flemming, did everything work? It seems as if some of your parts are from "not so reputable" sellers in China? Was everything fine and does your bot work? Everything worked fine, but you want to be sure and buy extra bearings because there is no quality control. I had a number of bearings that didn't spin freely or at all for that matter. But since they were so cheap it was stilby flemming - Tantillus
Here's the spreadsheet I put together. Hopefully most of the links still work. Robertby flemming - Tantillus
QuoteAGStumps8807 What level are you setting the fans at? Some DC fans don't like being driven by a PWM, and will only work at high duty cycles (~100% or 255 on the LCD). There was a thread on here somewhere about using an RC circuit to convert the PWM into a pure DC voltage, which might make the fans happier. Here's the thread you were looking for. Robertby flemming - Tantillus
For selecting the size of your print the calculator says: QuoteSize of the average layer cross section. Micro = Less than 0.5cm x 0.5cm = 0.25cm^2 Tiny = Less than 1cm x 1cm = 1cm^2 Small = Less than 2.5cm x 2.5cm = 6.25cm^2 Medium = Less than 3.5cm x 3.5cm = 12.25cm^2 Large = Less than 5cm x 5cm = 25cm^2 Extra Large = Greater than 5cm x 5cm For hollow or thin wall objects use a smaller sizeby flemming - Tantillus
I too would be interested in some kisslicer guidance for printing Tantillus replacement parts. Now that I'm finally up and running I figure that spare parts should be on my shortlist of things to print in the near future. I'd love to know if there were specific changes made for individual parts or if most parts were printed with a common config and if so what that was. Robertby flemming - Tantillus
QuoteSublime Yes and no. You can change the speed via the LCD (see the retraction calibration section of the tutorials page on Tantillus.org) But since EEPROM is disabled it will not stay for more than one print. You will then have to set it in the firmware and reupload to make it permanent (also in the retraction calibration). You could enable EEPROM but that can lead to troubleshooting issues sby flemming - Tantillus
QuoteSublime First question is what voltage are you running the machine on? 15v or at least that's what my universal power supply is set to, I haven't actually measured it. It can be set from 15v - 24v. Quote The extruder noise may be it trying to go faster then it can actually turn. In the firmware try reducing the speed until it stops making the noise and report the speed back here. Is thisby flemming - Tantillus
The extruder skipping (looked like kickback) was fixed by upping the current a bit. The extruder seems to be working fine though it is a tad noisy when retracting and advancing back: Is this normal? I don't think the hobbed bolt is grinding the filament. The springs are pretty much bottomed out so if this is the sound of it slipping then I'll need to double up the springs like the originalby flemming - Tantillus
QuoteSublime Between this and the last problem with skipped steps I think you should reduce your travel speed in Kisslicer and see if it helps. Default 150 and I would try 120. If that fixes the skipped steps you can move on until things are broken in a little more before trying faster again. Slowing it down indeed seemed to help. I was able to get further along in the pyramid before it lookedby flemming - Tantillus
It seems that my extruder problems from here are more or less resolved.I was finally able to print a pretty good calibration cube using a Positive Z-offset of 1.0 and a flow of 400: I moved on to attempting a pyramid since I think my retraction speed may need a little work (getting a bit of ooze), and while the base starts out okay once it starts to try and do the posts I had a dramatic shifby flemming - Tantillus
QuoteSublime To get the plastic to stick your best bet is to wipe the tape with acetone or 99% rubbing alcohol. Also you can scrape or sand the tape lightly. The first couple of test prints have skipped steps and could be that need to up your stepper current just a little bit. Or maybe your x/y gears are loose. Or maybe your bushings are too tight. It also looks like it is only on one axis. Itby flemming - Tantillus
QuoteSublime I would agree with what Wingnut said about the gears possibly catching each other. You may want to lower the gear on the motor a little bit so the teeth of the larger gear do not hit the hub of the motor gear. Done, and I also added a washer between the bearing and the extruder gear. I think both of these helped. I was finally able to attempt a print (more below). QuoteSublime Buby flemming - Tantillus
I'm working through a build and unfortunately my extruder is preventing my from actually making my first print. I've been tinkering with the stepper pots, tightening and loosening the idler screws, but nothing seems to be helping. I took a couple videos to hopefully illustrate the problem and ideally get some advice: First a video of extruder turning while empty: You can hear an occasionalby flemming - Tantillus
daniel.holmes Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I don't feel comfortable building my own list of > parts from scraps of posts from other people, it's > a lot of money and I want to be sure I buy the > right parts and be sure those parts are compatible > with eachother. If anyone with experience could > kindly put together such a list it would be &gby flemming - Tantillus
You'll want to start out at a slow speed to get the bit to bite. I ended up putting a small divot in the rods with a mill before finishing them on the drill press, but it took a whole lot longer than I expected and I ended up breaking a bit in the process. Robertby flemming - Tantillus
lajos Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The main motivation was to hook up an i2c lcd > controller, but once I had that I wanted all the > goodies that Sublime added to the official > firmware ; ) (Using the i2c lcd, there are plenty > pins left over to hook up the encoder and an led > driver to the Sanguinololu/Azteeg X1.) I've also > added somby flemming - Tantillus
dearnir Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > HI, > > i"m not sure i"m looking at the right 20 position > encoder, could someone show me what it is? > thanks I'm in the process of gather parts myself and you can find my previous post here: In that thread lajos mentioned a particular encoder that he used: Previously Sublime mentioned one here:by flemming - Tantillus
lajos Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can get stepper motors cheaper in the US. The > last motors I got from here, order shipped same > day, received in a couple days. (When I bought the > motors they were on sale for under $10, but $12 is > not bad either.) The motors run cool and they are > super quiet. Thanks for the pointer, though rightby flemming - Tantillus
I took the BOM from the Tantillus site and started to try and fill in suppliers and estimate the cost of self sourcing a laser cut version. I got pretty far, but came up short on a few items. In the end I think I'll just cross my fingers and hope that Sublime puts kits up for sale again Since I went through the trouble though, I thought I'd post my results in case anyone wants to fill in theby flemming - Tantillus