Just an update regarding bed adhesion and blue tape: I've started using a stronger adhesion tape by 3M that seems to do a much better job sticking to the glass, preventing pull-up by the print when it cools. I've only printed a couple of times with it, but so far the results are FAR superior to the blue painters tape I've been using. 3M Scotch Tape #2060 The top surface of the tape is veryby Nick101 - Tantillus
Thanks guys for the suggestions. I went ahead and tried the super glue and it seems to have done the trick!by Nick101 - Tantillus
I apologize if this isn't the most relevant question for this forum but I was hoping someone might know how to repair fractures along layers in a PLA print. I've heard super glue is a good option but does anyone know a method that works well? Thanks!by Nick101 - Tantillus
Definitely worth a try then... I'll report back EDIT: So after a few more test prints, I've decided to go back to a gear-driven system as I was never able to get through the sparse infill with any usable results.by Nick101 - Tantillus
Yeah, after a couple more test prints, I would have to agree that a direct drive extruder, at least when using a normal NEMA 17 motor, might not work out that well for 3mm. The bottom solid layers of the cube turn out well but once things start to speed up for the sparse infill, extrusion gets inconsistent at best. I might try one or two more test prints just to make sure I'm not missing anythiby Nick101 - Tantillus
Hi Everybody! After seeing some of the great modifications people have made to their Tantilli (sp?), I was inspired to design a direct drive extruder and thought I would share what I've made so far: Extruder The design uses 3mm filament and a Mk7 drive gear. It also uses a 608 skate bearing as I still have a ton laying around from the Tantillus construction. I tried printing out a test cube bby Nick101 - Tantillus
I'm also playing with the idea of moving my extruder and would like to employ a similar setup to this. Robonz, where have you found to be the most effective placement for it? Also, could you explain a bit more your idea of a "2 or 3 to 1 belt stage that replaces the gears"?by Nick101 - Tantillus
I'm not worried about the fans as they are cheap so I guess I'll go ahead and give it a try. Thanks for the help Sublime!by Nick101 - Tantillus
Hi everyone, I'm currently working to provide a bit more cooling to the extruder motor and ramps board in my Tantillus and so I purchased a couple of small 12v fans, one of them 0.195A and the other 0.11A. I'm using a 15v 6A power supply suggested in the Tantillus BOM. I'd like to have these fans running all of the time so I was thinking about branching them directly off of incoming power but Iby Nick101 - Tantillus
Hey guys, Recently fired up my Tantillus again after a long hiatus and I'm still having a tough time with the first few layers of a print over-extruding (even with flow set ~ 320). I've tried setting flow to 300 with better success but once the infill layers start printing, the print looks under extruded, with small gaps between passes. At this point I bump the flow rate back up to ~375 and itby Nick101 - Tantillus
Thanks for the suggestions Sublime. I did as you said and now my prints are turning out MUCH better. I started by checking the E-axis calibration which was pretty accurate (~49mm measured) so I didn't change anything there. I then had to fine tune the flow quite a bit (brought it down to 315 from 450) and it's not quite perfect yet (printed quite well at 299 flow and 100 precise printing, butby Nick101 - Tantillus
So I received by Ultimachine red and I'm experiencing problems I hadn't before so I thought I'd see if anyone had any ideas on what's going on here and how I might be able to fix it. Pic 1 Pic 2 I suspect it might be flow rate as by the second or third layer, the nozzle seems to dig into the previous layer. If that is the case, how would I fix that? Could temperature also be playing a factor?by Nick101 - Tantillus
Thanks for the tip! I just ordered some 3mm red pla from ultimachine so hopefully it will work well for me.by Nick101 - Tantillus
Can anyone recommend a good place to buy filament? I'm currently using translucent green and, while cool to look at, might be contributing to some of the printing problems I'm having. I've heard good things about Ultimaker's filament, but they're in Europe (I think...) and I've procrastinated on my printed christmas gifts and need something quick Anyone know of a good supplier on Amazon Primeby Nick101 - Tantillus
Just an update: I tried the glue method a couple of times with different results. The first time I tried it, the print still curled at the edges and could be removed without much effort. The second time I tried it, I printed closer to the print bed resulting in a slightly more smushed first layer. I also turned the fan off completely for the second print. The result was a very secure print wby Nick101 - Tantillus
I picked up some Elmer's glue today so I'll let you know how it goes! Thanks again for the helpby Nick101 - Tantillus
Okay, thanks for the suggestions! Any tips on brand of PVA glue? Dilution?by Nick101 - Tantillus
Quite a few of my prints are curling on the bottom layers and I'm really not quite sure the best way to combat them on the Tantillus. I've noticed this problem on small prints as well as large ones. I typically print using the Default setting on KISSlicer (200 deg first layer, 190 deg main) and more precise printing ~ 85 for most of my prints. I also have one 40mm fan blowing across the printby Nick101 - Tantillus
Hi Sublime! Just to be sure I have the correct config files, I followed the link from the Tutorials section on Tantillus.org and downloaded the "Kisslicer_profiles.zip" file. I compared the file sizes and "modified" dates of the files in the archive and they match exactly with the ones I downloaded back in July. Am I still downloading the old Slic3r files somehow? I was wondering the same thiby Nick101 - Tantillus
I would suggest verifying that the motors are wired correctly to the RAMPS board or whatever driver board you're using. I experienced similar behavior from my motors (clicking rather than movement regardless of trimpot setting) until I finally wired them properly.by Nick101 - Tantillus
Thanks Sublime. My drivers do have heat sinks on them fortunately and I verified that they weren't getting too hot. I did turn the current down a tiny bit on the extruder driver though. I also disassembled the extruder and found a circular wear mark on the motor face nearest the hobbed bolt as well as a loose nut. I tightened everything down and put some spacer washers between the motor and tby Nick101 - Tantillus
Hi Maik, I'm starting to notice this on some of my prints as well. Were you able to resolve this? Nickby Nick101 - Tantillus
Thanks for the suggestions Sublime. After playing with the settings a bit more in both Pronterface and KISSlicer, I was able to make sure that the temperature was set properly throughout the entire print and that the fan also was operating as it should. Now my prints seem to come out much better than they had before. I found that if I control the printer entirely through Pronterface and KISSby Nick101 - Tantillus
Hooked up a fan and tweaked a few other things and prints seem to be turning out better. A couple of things I'm noticing however: 1) The temperature reading on the LCD reads ~ 210 degrees throughout a print even though in KISSlicer the temperature settings range from 200 for first layer, to 190 for Main layer, and 130 to keep warm when I'm slicing a file. Shouldn't the printer temp be consistby Nick101 - Tantillus
So after a great first build, the rest have been utter failures like the one pictured below: From observation, I can see that the filament has a tough time sticking to the blue tape. I think I might have issues with filament flow as well, as it seemed to come out in spurts rather than a consistent flow. During the above print, the extruder also eventually started grinding the filament and woby Nick101 - Tantillus
I wouldn't say you're being too picky, but for $50, I don't think we can expect high accuracy. I have run into many situations where I have to cut / trim / sand / swear at a part before it would work as it was supposed to. As far as the pulleys go, I haven't used mine yet. I got some XY gears from Sublime. I'll also direct you to what he told me regarding the pulleys: "They do reduce yourby Nick101 - Tantillus
Your parts look very similar to the ones that I purchased off ebay from Wardtech. If you bought them from him too, I would encourage you to get in contact with him and let him know about the cracked parts (include pictures). I had a couple of cracked parts as well and he shipped me replacements promptly and without charge. I would also mention the pulley / gear situation to him.by Nick101 - Tantillus
Just finished the 20x20x10 calibration box on the Tantillus tutorial page and I wanted to share my results! Thanks to everyone who helped me get to this point. I really appreciate it! I included a couple of shots to demonstrate how the print turned out. All in all, I think it went pretty well. I noticed that the corners of the box are slightly raised and I think I'd contribute that to nby Nick101 - Tantillus