QuoteAndersl Hi, That snapshot would be useful when I start assembling mine soon. How about putting a .zip archive on Dropbox and sharing a public link? /anders I have put a zipped copy on Mediafire 180+ MB Cheers Gregby beekeg - Tantillus
I have a snapshot of the website from 11/2013 if that is of any use. Not sure of the best way of sharing. Gregby beekeg - Tantillus
This evening I printed an 'L' shaped part that stuck so well that I broke it getting it off the glass. A shame as there was no lifting at all. What do you find to be the best way of releasing the print from PVA? I have tried hot water, but then there is a risk of warping the part.by beekeg - Tantillus
I've done a few tests using the Power Pritt direct on glass over the last week. I still get a bit of lifting on large objects with sharp 90 degree corners, but I get a much nicer finish. If lifting is a problem printing on a raft works OK, but it is a real pain cleaning the raft off afterwards.by beekeg - Tantillus
A long time ago, before I was on the precipitous face of the learning curve, so I don't recall having success with glue on glass. I will give it another go now my printer is consistently laying down decent first layers.by beekeg - Tantillus
Hi Sebastian, I bought my acrylic case from a supplier on eMaker, called Indieflow. He is UK-based. I am very pleased with the quality.by beekeg - Tantillus
Thanks. I'll watch out for the seam issue in future. Gregby beekeg - Tantillus
I made my own too. I couldn't find M8 x 105, so used M8 x 115 and some M8 washers under the hex nut to get some thread under the nut that is embedded in the large gearwheel. If you are in the UK I would expect most fastener suppliers will be able to sell you one. Get two in case you mess up the first one. Cheers Gregby beekeg - Tantillus
Thanks Keith I'll see if I can find some suitable springs. Yes I cleaned out my nozzle today using the 80 degree and yank method. It wasn't blocked but it pulled out a load of sooty deposits on the surface of the 'plug'. Those nuts look good. I may make something similar. I have some knurled inserts that I use at present but they don't look as good as yours. Managing without a heated bed atby beekeg - Tantillus
Hi Keith, I see now that I need to use with the revised idler plate. What is the benefit of using die springs? Greater pressure or more ability to adapt to variations in filament diameter? Thanks for the pointers.by beekeg - Tantillus
Hi, I checked the rod/gear tightness and all is good. I decreased the mesh slightly on one of the gears and now it runs a bit smoother. I'll also turn up the current a bit and see if it improves the accuracy in case there is a bit of cogging going on. Thanksby beekeg - Tantillus
QuoteRobonz If you are using a threaded rod for your Z lift you can try my z wobble hack. its a really quick easy upgrade. I would be interested to see your feedback. As robster said, you are definately getting an x or a y shift that can be seen clearly above the elephants eye. I would make sure the x and y are really smooth. Turn it by hand with the power off. If there are any bumps or stiff poby beekeg - Tantillus
I think that the side-to-side shift has all but gone. I am beginning to think that the banding is due either to variances in the z-axis step or is related to an as-yet undiagnosed extrusion issue. Here are some pictures of a new elephant. It started off printing well and then about 2 mm in it the extruded width reduced so that the 25% infill became stringy and the two skin loops became distincby beekeg - Tantillus
I'm getting good adhesion with Power Pritt. on blue painters tape. The flat top of the stick is also useful for flattening down the tape too. For large prints it may be necessary to soak the whole lot in water to release the tape from the glass and then the tape from the print.by beekeg - Tantillus
Quotewingnut Going to assume you mean mm/s :-) m/s would explain the problems I'm having with the axis screws coming loose......and embedding themselves in the wall I'll try some locktite and check/adjust motor current. Thanks! Greg p.s. tried the hairdryer tip to level/free up the z-axis and it worked a treatby beekeg - Tantillus
I used m/s loops=24 Solid=21 Sparse=31 I find that if I use higher speeds there is a risk of axis screws loosening. I guess I should check before each print, as something always goes wrong when I push the envelope speed wise.by beekeg - Tantillus
Thanks for the suggestions. I went round the X/Y cables and tightened them all (tuned to middle C I think) I also took more care with the clamping of the glass plate, but I think that I still need to work on the clamping solution (stronger bulldog clips and larger glass area, particularly towards the front to give more bearing surface. I checked the hot-end and that is solid. Yes, I just setby beekeg - Tantillus
Hi, I've been trying to improve my Tantillus by updating and reprinting parts as I had major issues with layer alignment. So far I have replaced the Z-axis with a Cable-Z, reprinted the X and Y ends and printed bearings, and reprinted the lower X/Y gears and extruder small gear. Here is my latest print, which was printed using medium model parameters from Sublime's calculator and a relativelyby beekeg - Tantillus
You need to break the interfering support plastic away as shown in the build guide: HERE Section 1, last photo. I remember that on the imperial version that this piece is thinned at each end to make it easier to break off with pliers. You may need to cut each end with knife or mini-saw. Gregby beekeg - Tantillus
Glad to help, and I now know the Kisslicer is set up right.by beekeg - Tantillus
Hi, I'm recalibrating my Tantillus. I may be missing something or having severe brain fade, but I don't know what to do at step 7. of "Setting Z home" in the Tantillus Tutorial. It Says: "Start Kisslicer and open the calibration config for your current Hotend size (Black = 0.5mm / White = 0.35mm)." What do I do at this step in Kisslicer? Do I load the calibration.ini file somewhere or paste tby beekeg - Tantillus
Helmi Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I finally found some laser cutting services that > can cut me some 6mm acrylic but it's more > expensive than i thought. How much did it cost for > you guys that already built an acrylic version? > looks like it's around 100€ here (which is about > 130$ USD). Going with the printed version is not > an alteby beekeg - Tantillus
We had a variety of glue sticks to hand so I went with Power Pritt on top of the blue tape. It sticks almost too well on delicate items, so I will experiment with regular strength. I'll also try it straight on the glass, which I expect will produce a better finish. Do you dilute the PVA glue or use it neat? p.s. The banding due to z wobble is less pronounced now since lubricating the threadby beekeg - Tantillus
I have had this a couple of times over the last couple of days. The first time was two separate step shifts in the X-axis on the same print. I turned up the current on the stapper drive slightly and that sorted the problem. The other time was a consistent skewing of the same axis. I traced this to a loosening of the grub screws on the large gears. Hope this helps.by beekeg - Tantillus
I've had some mixed results over the last couple of days. The main frustration has been getting the first layer to stick to the blue painter tape. I got better results when I'd improved the levelling of the bed. This reduced the number of times the run aborted due to an engulfed hotend. My current problem is warping. I have tried cleaning the tape with Surgical Spirit (Rubbing Alcohol) and lby beekeg - Tantillus
Thanks for the feedback. I'll start with the lubrication, temperature settings and e calibration. I didn't realise that there should be some play in the Z-lift bracket slots, but now it makes perfect sense.by beekeg - Tantillus
It has now sorted itself out with a reload of the Marlin firmware.by beekeg - Tantillus
I posted here yesterday with a thermistor calibration problem, and took Sublime's advice and adjusted the thermistor pull-up resistor parameter in Marlin. Although this confirmed that my pull-up was 4.7k, the action of setting and resetting the parameter did something and I was greeted with a controlled stream of PLA from the hotend This evening I had a go at calibration and was pleased to getby beekeg - Tantillus