I am still running mine. I never used the gears as the were noise and wore out. Belts are dead quiet and last forever https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-5sdCndlLYby Robonz - Tantillus
You should not have voids in the middle. It think your print settings may be wrong. I specially made a video for you 4 years ago haha https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfkB6idPDPUby Robonz - Tantillus
Right here bra Cheers Keithby Robonz - Tantillus
This is how I see the heated bed temperature. Your bed should be as cold as it can go without warpage that "is bad". The bed adds stress to the model and reduces warpage so you want that happy medium. To turn the bed off at the end of the print I do this. In postfix of kisslicer I have this code. Its more code than you need but it makes for a nice print ending. It mainly drops the bed before homby Robonz - Tantillus
For Kisslicer M140 S0 turns off the heated bed, just stick that in ptr gcode-> N* layers set the layer number to the layer you want to turn it off at. I have not tested this but it should work. Personally I leave it on for the whole print but if I was to turn it off I would run at least 20 to 30 layers at 100um layer heightby Robonz - Tantillus
Hi SkyArcher I made a video on my Tanty heated bed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFj2S6i-FGs I have printed ABS and PLA on it.The video shows where the thermistor connection goes. You need to modify the firmware too. From memory you just make bed 1 instead of 0 or something like that. My bed quite happily runs at 110C. I have not tried to go any hotter. Blue painters tape works fine at 110 wby Robonz - Tantillus
The acceleration on x and y should be turned down too as the pulleys are bigger. Cheers Keithby Robonz - Tantillus
42BYGHW609 is only 2 ohms per coil which is good. If that is the motor you have it should work fine, we were discussing a motor that is 30 ohms 42BYGHW602 Get your printed bearings running smooth and it should be fine. Those are good motors. Cheers Keithby Robonz - Tantillus
Sorry Mate, I didnt capture all that detail. Those sound like odd motors to use, even 15 volts is probably not enough! This is what I mean about free "Sublime support" hehe. If you have motors like that then the acceleration should be turned down to match the slow response and possibly the max feed rate too. M201 command would sort the acceleration? or tune the firware. Cheers Keithby Robonz - Tantillus
FYI I am printing ABS and PLA on 12 volts perfectly. The only catch is you have to turn down the extruder acceleration, my machine is all ready for 19 volts but I havent had a reason to switch it over and re-tune the PID. The motor controllers are constant current so stall torque should be about the same at 12 volts and15 volts. It is the top speed and acceleration that suffer with lower voltageby Robonz - Tantillus
My plastic lm8uu slide as smooth as silk. They do work really well. You do need to push the shaft into them a few times until they become smooth end easy to slide. If they are metal ones not designed for roatation things will never work right. Here are my KissSlicer settings, www.edns.co.nz/tantillus/kissslicer_settings/ Beware I have a lot of prefix code in the Ptr G-Code section and some pby Robonz - Tantillus
The "printed" lm8uu bearings work well for rotating shafts. The "metal" lm8uu are not made for rotation so they will stop your printer running smooth. If you hand turn the x or y motors, the effort required should be very smooth and easy. If this is not true then some work needs to be done until it is. Good luck Cheers Keithby Robonz - Tantillus
You might have discussed this already, I am not sure. The x and y steps per mm are going to be way off with the metal pulleys so you need to calibrate those numbers. You will need a lot less steps per mm. If you dial the x position through the knob does it match what the LCD? I will let Sublime talk about the "metal ones" Cheers Keithby Robonz - Tantillus
I have some of the green tape i have been meaning to try for my ABS prints as I get the same issue, the blue tape does lift off the glass a little bit. I should run my bed hotter than 100 but the prints are not too warped so no need for now. Thanks for the heads up. Right now my ABS sticks too well to the tape so I might skip the acetone and use IPA to start with. One thing I really like about tby Robonz - Tantillus
Every Prusa I have seen has the Z steppers in parallel and the Z motors are not coupled together. This means if someone walks up and hand turns one motor (as they do) the whole machine is screwed until you fix it. Also running steppers in parallel is down right wrong if you understand the dynamics. This means your Z axis will randomly be misaligned on microsteps. It would only take 20 mins to fby Robonz - Tantillus
Good point, I think I pointed to the wrong motor but 5 to1 gearing is good, I think you can get the motor with the right shaft. The other option is get a hob that fits the 8mm shaft. I am printing ABS for the first time today. Its stinky and my bed takes ages to get to temperature. Material requirments suck sometimes. The tantillus is printing good though. Printing on blue painters tape and theby Robonz - Tantillus
Here is my opinion on the machine. I have been running mine for almost a year. The good: The machine being small means the accuracey is extremely good. I get better results than most comercial filament 3D printers. It is portable as it is small. With a few upgrades it can be an incredible machine. Single Z motor is also good. I like the form factor too, The not so good It is a little harder toby Robonz - Tantillus
If you want to keep that simple design the planetary gear stepper works a treat with that set up. http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/gear-ratio-51-planetary-gearbox-high-torque-nema-17-stepper-17hs191684spg5-p-40.html Cheers Keithby Robonz - Tantillus
Try ebay.com there are loads of them. Cheers Keithby Robonz - Tantillus
6mm works great or 1/4" (~6.3mm) would work fine I expect, the only problems I had was the bearings were not a tight fit on one panel so I re cut it. If I did it again I would cut it undersize and the ream to exact size. I love laser cutting because it is so fast and I have one in my garage now.by Robonz - Tantillus
Hi Nick I have my extruder set up like this I put the filament spool behind the machine and out the way, The filament follows its natural curve so flows through the bowden smoothly. The bowden tube is shorter for less fricton and smoother retracts. The bowden is kept as circular as possible for the lowest friction path. As for the belt gearing you can see my belt tantillus here Just imagine tby Robonz - Tantillus
Ifs here Files/Laser Cutting All Panels 3mm.DXF Cheers Keithby Robonz - Tantillus
Great job, This is something I have fantisized about. Talk about easy maintainance. I guess you have some belt tensioning or something going on in there. I think you will lose a little X,Y resolution as the spectra runs on effectively a smaller shaft than the belt does. To get the X,Y resolution back and get rid of the gears for a pure belt drive you could do a 2 or 3 to 1 belt stage that replacby Robonz - Tantillus
Hi Sebastian Milling the case panels probably would'nt work because there are some very tight radius' in the DXF especially in the finger joints. You would need to modify the design. Can you find a local laser cutter? Where are you located? It's less than 1 hour of laser cutting so should'nt cost much. It can be done on a small machine too. Here is the link for the metric laser cut case Cheersby Robonz - Tantillus
As Sublime said the strings work and work without any issues if built properly. What I don't like about the stings is the time it takes to pull them on and off the machine if you want to do some maintainance. e.g if you needed to remove a shaft or bearing and put it back. But I do believe you get better performance with strings than belts because they are less stretchy than a belt. To answer yoby Robonz - Tantillus
Wow, that looks great! That's pretty much what I wanted to do except to make the print area wider. I guess making things wider with that design would be pretty easy. I really like it has no gears, I don't care about the frankenstien motors sticking out. So, can you get rid of the string next with a belt so it can tear down in 5 minutes? And a single stage belt on the Z would be awesome too.by Robonz - Tantillus
200mm wide would certainly be handy. I have done so many designs where I run out of room on one axis only. I think rectangular is a great way to go. If anyone wants laser cut bits in New Zealand I am happy to hellp as I have my laser up and running now. Cheers Keith EDIT: Adding my URL edns.co.nzby Robonz - Tantillus
If you use compressed air on your laser cutter as I do, it is recomended that the air be dryed first as compressed air can contain a lot of moisture. I run a propper air dryer, but I have seen some DIY dryers thats use radiators from old refrigeration equipment that work pretty good. Saves your mirrors getting condensation on them and cracking etc. Cheers Keithby Robonz - Laser Cutter Working Group
I just got a 50W Universal Laser set up in my garage and before I start cutting up some stinky stuff like ABS or Polycarbonate I want to build a wet scrubber. I am sure if I don't, my neighbours will make life hell; also, it seems like the right thing to do. So my goal is to build a DIY but near industrial quality wet air scrubber. I don’t want to use activated carbon for long reasons I won't expby Robonz - Laser Cutter Working Group
That print looks great Greg, The dome looks really smooth. You must have spent some time working things out. If I had to guess the mouth is caused by retractions not being spot on. Being a bowden system you never get them perfect.. I make all kinds of things with the laser cutter. The cool thing about them over 3d printing is the speed at which they complete a job. So having a laser and a 3d priby Robonz - Tantillus