Is there a way to measure the babystepping needed or save it for future prints? Currently I have just been manually adjusting the probe offset on my delta, re-calibrating, and then retesting the print.by Kurzaa - Duet
The DuetWifi has a web interface so that you can easily control it from any desktop computer. G-code is then uploaded to the SD card on the controller so that you are printing from the controller rather than over wifi or a USB connection to the printer. I have considered setting up an old cell phone or tablet as a display panel for my printer, though I have never tested how well the web interfaceby Kurzaa - General
8-bit or 32-bit processor? My printer use to pause like that when I was trying to run a GLCD with an 8-bit processor. Just wasn't strong enough. Are you printing from an SD card or your computer? Sometimes the USB interface can cause pauses in prints.by Kurzaa - Delta Machines
Keep in mind that due to the layered nature of FDM 3D printing, there are no perfectly transparent materials. However I believe someone created a finishing material that could improve transparency on prints with thicker layer heights. Unfortunately I don't have the link or name of the product.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
Biggest issue with PETG is it likes to stick to itself. This can often result in filament balling up and sticking to the nozzle until it is deposited elsewhere on your print. Getting the first layer height dialed in correctly is the most important part, but I have never had issues with a clogged hot end using PETG. If you need "perfectly transparent" filament, then I believe you are limited to Pby Kurzaa - Reprappers
I have always assumed 5A for the hot end and steppers with another 10-12A for a heated bed if you have one. A cheap 12V 5-7A power supply should be easy to find.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
That was it. Thanks for the help dc42.by Kurzaa - Duet
I used to be able to run a G32 or G30 command that would probe all of my bed points and return the trigger heights for all of the points in the gcode console. However, the best solution I can find at the moment is probing a single bed point with a G30 S-1 which only returns one result. Seems to follow the instructions for calibrating delta printers on the Duet website. Is the ability to multi-prby Kurzaa - Duet
My thought, though I have yet to try this, is to re-use an old cellphone or tablet as the display for my printer. No need to wire directly to the Duet board as I can just connect via the web interface. You also might be able to use a RPi Zero with the linked touch screen display, allowing you to use it for a web interface for just a few dollars more.by Kurzaa - Duet
Its anecdotal, but I found my delta worked better after upgrading from the original RAMPS board. Still can't run my full graphic lcd (not compatible), but the web interface allows me to access the printer from any room in my house (in theory), is so much more convienent to launch prints with then using an SD card or problematic USB interface, includes delta auto-calibration, and some day I hope tby Kurzaa - Duet
I think I would put down some blue tape in the center of my bed, [0,0], then mark where the nozzle touches the bed. Next, manually position the so that it is "centered" on the mark you made. Whatever the current x,y coordinates are, that is your offset. Maybe you need to reverse the numbers (2,3 becomes -2,-3)? Shot in the dark. Good luck.by Kurzaa - Duet
I was wondering if possibly the fan was re-wired backwards after the accident, hence the reversed speed. Maybe try it the other way? Perhaps the fan shroud was cracked, allowing air to blow on the thermistor?by Kurzaa - Reprappers
My filament will occasionally curl out of the nozzle when extruding in mid-air, thought it was just a thing, never considered the shape of the nozzle (using an E3D) to be a factor. However when bridging, I assume you want to "stretch" the filament out over the bridge, pulling it into a straight line. So I would assume if it is curling on you, perhaps you need to speed up your bridges?by Kurzaa - General
Maybe check the URL you are using? I don't see a language option in my URL, but perhaps you are using a shortcut with lang=DE or something similar, overriding the default preferences.by Kurzaa - General
I thought Slic3r had a raster / png output for SLA.by Kurzaa - General
QuoteUh... if this accessory wasn't a theat, why take down the listings for it? Contradiction. If you had bothered reading all of Sanjay's thread, you would have understood that E3D didn't take down the posting, a third party firm did on their behalf. A firm that probably relied upon a generic computer algorithm to find every non-E3D approved use of the term "E3D" and auto-submitted a take downby Kurzaa - General
Did not consider an adhesive sheet, but that looks like it might be perfect. Plus it appears Gizmo Dorks also have 6 1/2 inch and 8 inch round sheets for my application. Thanks for the help.by Kurzaa - General
Looking for recommendations for a high temperature adhesive for backing my heated bed with a silicone baking mat for insulation. Finally added a kapton tape heated bed to my printer, attaching the tape to a copper wafer I picked up at the Midwest RepRap Festival a few years ago. With a sheet of glass on top, it worked great so far in the few tests I have attempted. However, I am not sure about tby Kurzaa - General
This kind of sounds like a he said she said situation without being able to read the descriptions of postings that were actually shut down. For all we know, E3D was acting in good faith to protect consumers from junk chinese clones and you just got caught in the middle. They always seemed like good guys to me who I assume would be willing to work with you so that you could sell your thermistors iby Kurzaa - General
I am confused, are you trying to convert your Micromake from the existing 8-bit controller to a Duet board or are you trying to configure your 8-bit board for z-probing and improve the connectors?by Kurzaa - Duet
With Terramir's experience, I guess I was assuming he could puzzle out the instructions for the printer on his own. The big thing he needs is the CAD files for cutting the boards. Though as old as the design is, maybe it is just written as instructions rather than open source CAD files for cutting the boards with a CNC. Good luck to you though Terramir.by Kurzaa - Delta Machines
I thought Thingiverse, despite its ownership, was still the place to go. Everything I have seen on Youmagine is usually cross posted with Thingiverse, so I rarely have reason to visit considering Thingiverse seems to have more alternatives in addtion to the cross-postings. Tried using Pinshape, but I really don't care for the UI or the fact that I have to log in to download anything.by Kurzaa - General
1. I know that slicers can be set to generate different types of gcode sometimes. I have always defaulted to marlin/repetier, even for RepRapFirmware. Perhaps S3D is set correctly for your firmware or is at least correctly detecting it, but the other slicers are assuming a different gcode / communication reference. Now that I type that, it is more likely an incompatible baud speed between your fiby Kurzaa - General
I thought the Rostock was open source? So wouldn't RepRap Austria be required to publish or at least make available for free a copy of the design files they used for their version? Then again, I thought RepRap Austria had gone out of business a couple years ago. I also think most people point to the Kossel as it is a more stable version of delta printers then the original Rostock (not that it isby Kurzaa - Delta Machines
This sounds like more of a slicer problem then a printer board issue. Thinking about it you couldn't just reverse the g-code because you would still need to lift the drill bit up for moves.by Kurzaa - Duet
1. Should be links to the original Rostock design on the reprap forums under the printers section, though I haven't looked in a while. Also might want to search Thingiverse, though if you still come up short, trying looking for the Rostock Mini designs as I believe Bob Ewans (?) design includes links to the original. 2. I use an FSR kit from Ultibots for auto-calibration. Essentially puts threeby Kurzaa - Delta Machines
Full graphic control on a delta is your main problem. If you need the display, I would invest in a simple display rather than the full graphic display, though in my case I just disabled the display in the firmware and used the unit for the SD card slot. Printing from the SD card rather than over USB should also help...even if you do set-up Octoprint which essentially just replaces your computer fby Kurzaa - Delta Machines
I am a fan of ESUN and recommend INTSERVO as a reseller. Hated the white PLA and found their silver PLA to be brittle, but they have since released PLA+ or PLA-H which is supposed to work better.by Kurzaa - Reprappers
Had this happen on a delta. Turned out I had the X and Y motors crossed.by Kurzaa - Printing
Most individuals using FSR sensors either homebrew their own daughter boards (?) from a trinket / tiny85 or are using the boards designed by JohnL. Upto three sensors plug into the board and monitor the average resistance of the sensors. If resistance increases (weight is added), the board sends a signal to the printer controller just like if it was a normal end stop. If the weight remains, theby Kurzaa - Reprappers