Hi, I agree with Larks. I live in Brasil too. I finished my Prusa i3 and with the knowledge I acquired I am building another printer. As I have friends that goes to USA on a regular basis so I brought some pieces there, but only the minimum which is: Arduino + Ramps + stepper JHead Heat-bed NEMA motors I brought everything else here in brasil, ether on the MercadoLivre or in local store (asby Ray - Reprappers
I used the same setting for the three prints (bed temperature at 120°C and noodle from 230°C to 200°C), except that the fan was turn off for the left one. I added this fan duct as close as possible to the nozzle and set a min/max of 0%/100% in slic3r I was worried that the extra cooling produces some kind of delamination or weaken the print but that wasn't the case. The only care that must be tby Ray - General
Hi, Thank you for answering. You were right. At some point during the calibration process I modified the cooling settings of slic3r and it wasn't working correctly. I restore the defaults and here are the results: from left to right: my old cooling settings (0.25mm), defaults slic3r setting (0.25mm), defaults slic3r setting (0.1mm) from bottom to the top: 230°C, 225°C, 220°C, 215°C, 210°C, 205°by Ray - General
Hi, During the calibration process I had some issue with overhang that I solved adding a fan. As I am printing ABS, I would like to turn on the fan only for overhang/bridge and not for the entire print. Is there any option to do so in Slic3r, Cura, ou Kisslicer? Thanksby Ray - General
Hi, have you search your G-code for any temperature increase? If not, try to search for any M109 S280 or M104 S280 in you G-code. if none appears it will probably be a Marlin/hardware error.by Ray - General
Are you printing PLA or ABS. I don't have experience with PLA but with ABSI have no problem on Kepton tape and a heated bed a 120°Cby Ray - Reprappers
it seems that vibrating tumblers are not so difficult to make: DIY vibrating tumbler I will try to make one as soon as I find a motor!by Ray - Reprappers
Hello, I am not familiar with vibratory tumbler. What king of material do you use to polish the prints? sand?by Ray - Reprappers
Thank you for yours answers. I will try Play with the scale factor and the size of the calibrating object. That's very good hint I didn't thought off.by Ray - General
Hi, I just finished the calibration of my homemade Prusa I3, and everything is fine except that the dimensions are always 0,1/0,2mm out for exemple: 20mm box Expected: 10mm x 20mm Obtained: 9,85mm x 19,88mm Accuracy: 99,85% x 99,4% Hollow box Expected: 12mm x 20mm Obtained: 11,9mm x 19,88mm Accuracy: 99,16% x 99,4% 50mm towel Expected: 50mm x 10mm Obtained: 49,7mm x 9,84mm Accuracy: 99,4% x 9,by Ray - General
Hi, from my point of view the biggest problem will be the rigidity of the structure, and the weight: You can fix the rigidity (if really needed) by using strongest rod and replacing 3D-printed parts by wooden ones. have a look at the grader i3. You will also be able to reduce the wobbling by reducing the print speed. To resolve problem caused by excessive weight, you will probably need strongerby Ray - Reprappers
I've change slic3r setting to 0% to 21% and turn off the fan for the 4 first layer. Slicer 1.1.7 generated the code at the right value (good point) Slicer 1.2.6 generated the code but the fan is set at full speed. otherwise I created a simple gcode: M106 S0 G28 G1 X100 M106 S255 and everything worked fine. tonight I'll try to print something and share the results.by Ray - Reprappers
Find it on Webarchive.org: http://www.tantillus.org/Build_3.html]http://web.archive.org/web/20140520051506/by Ray - Tantillus
I got similar problem printing ABS and solved it covering the bed with Kepton tape and increasing the print bed temperature to 120°C (248°F) for the first layer and 110°C (230°F) for the others (I am considering to print at 120 °C for much longer time now because of delimitation pb)by Ray - Reprappers
It was 35 (default) but I set it to 0by Ray - Reprappers
Hi, I just set the motherboard to type 34 and the printer don't recognize M106 or M107 command anymore (the fan remain off). Yesterday I tried to connect the fan through the D2 connector but it remains on and do not recognize any command. I checked Slic3r setting and everything is fine here but there is another a problem: slic3r do not generate adequate code. I set it to disable the fan for thby Ray - Reprappers
Hi I connected a 40x40 cm fan on D9 (Ramps 1.4). If I send M107 or M106 SX from Pronterface, everything ok. But the same commands in the GCode of an object does absolutely nothing. Any idea? I use the latest Marlin software.by Ray - Reprappers
I had a similar problem and solved it by using M106 S0 instead of M107. Hope it helps.by Ray - Reprappers
Ok, thank you very much. I am googling itby Ray - Reprappers
Hi! I was having troubles calibrating the bed auto leveling so I made a simple test and find what I think is a problem. The test (first steps are from Marlin documentation) : a) I made a small mark in the bed with a marker/felt-tip pen. b) I placed the hotend tip as *exactly* as possible on the mark, touching the bed. I raised the hotend 0.1mm and zero all axis (G92 X0 Y0 Z0); d) I raised theby Ray - Reprappers
Thank you very much for yours answers! I'll level the bed with hotend and bed heated up then. The feeler gauge is also a very good idea! I going to buy one right now!!!by Ray - Reprappers
Good evening, I followed the guide and leveled the Print bed with my printer off. Every things worked fine until I tried to print: As the hot end and the print bed heated, they dilates and closed the space left between the glass and the nozzle. So, does the leveling need to be done at printing temperature or must I use another reference for leveling (I use a piece of A4 paper as suggested by tby Ray - Reprappers
As Mr Kuhlmann kindly solved my problem in MP, I share the solution so everybody can benefit. QuoteRobert Hi Ray, easy: There are 32 nails on each side. Each nail can be used for two loops/lines, giving 64 lines of app. 14m length + some extra length for the curves around the nails. For a specific resistance of 0.0175 this would result in a calculated 0.98 Ω resistance. Isolated copper wire caby Ray - General
Good Evening, I was reading about Robert's Heated Bed and about Conductive Materials but I didn't find how he calculate a resistance of 1.3 Ohms: 32 loops x 220mm = 7040 mm= 7m Rs=0,0168/1,5= 0,0112Ohms/m R=0,0112*7= 0,0784 Ohms and with the other wire value given in the post: R=7(0,0168/(3,14*(0,56/2)2))=0,47 Ohms What did I do wrong?by Ray - General