To start it off. A clip for the SD Ramps to mount it on the side of the case and get rid of it flopping about.by tjhj2 - Tantillus
Hello All, I figured it would be nice to have a central thread of all the add-ons, upgrades and little things people have done to make their Tantillus better or more Tantillus like. Please include alignment suggestions, or tweaks that made assembly easier. Sublime - Thanks for the great printer. Thanks everyone for helping make it better.by tjhj2 - Tantillus
Sublime, Thank you, that gives me a referance for what I should be working for. QuoteSublime Did you get the kit with the 4 heavy springs or the 8 lighter ones? I have the 8 on two machines and the 4 heavier on the other machines and they work the same. I am not sure I would call my springs heavy. I got 4 springs that are 6mm ID, 7mm OD, 17mm long uncompressed. Are these the heavy springs?by tjhj2 - Tantillus
Sublime, Thank you for the suggestions. QuoteSublime If you are talking continuous extrusion speed I am not sure. But when I purge or load / unload I run it at 900mm/m. Not so much just a short purge, but could someone tell me the maximum speed you can extrude 100mm of 3mm filament. This would be incredibly helpful because if I am really slow then I know where to look, or if I can't even geby tjhj2 - Tantillus
Hello All, I have my Tantillus together and it was going well but now not so much. After discussions with brain (hotends.com) it appears I have bad luck and have gotten a bad hot end. But this leads me to my questions of how to diagnose the problems of clogged or problems. How much spring tension are people running to get it to extrude? I have to have the spring screws on the idler wheel bottby tjhj2 - Tantillus
Hi, I am trying to source the steppers needed and want to make sure I am looking at the right spec. On the BOM it says 4 - Nema 17 stepper motors (max length of 40mm recommended) When referring to the max length of 40mm are we talking with the shaft? Or just the length of body? What shaft length would be reccomended if it is body length only? Thank you,by tjhj2 - Tantillus
Hello All, I seem to be having a problem that I can't seem to solve. I am using a makergear kit, so their extruder as well. PLA 1.75 mm filament. All tempatures are barrel temps measured using a K thermocouple. 0.2mm layers. So no matter what I do I get either stringing or blobing. There is no in between. 170 appears to be my lower temp limit, below this I can't generate enough force to extruby tjhj2 - General
Hello all, I just got my PrusaMax LCD screen set up this weekend and it has a percentage on the main monitor screen. It adjusts with the encoder but I can't seem to figure out what it does or is telling me. Any ideas? Thank you,by tjhj2 - General
I reduced the max speed of Z down to 3 mm/s. Which resulted in a pretty good result and a cube the correct height. The problem is as I turn the current up on the driver. It will either skip steps or click back and forth. When it's sitting still. Is this normal? I am assuming on polu drivers clockwise is more current right? Thank you for all your help.by tjhj2 - General
Hi, So I was looking at my config for marlin and noticed that my E max federate is 45mm/s. if I tell slic3r to print at 50. Does marlin automatically compensate and reduce the speed? Also when slic3 makes or programs a rapid move does it put a G0 rapid so that the table moves at the max feed rate set in marlin? Or does it move at the speed setting for traverse in Slic3r? Thank you for your hby tjhj2 - General
Hello, This mornings prints seem to be going better. I dropped the temp again to 160 which from my cal chart of measuring gives me 172 deg in the barrel. Then I moved the nozzle diam up to .42 as was recommended from some reading. Which is the diam of my free air extrusion. It looks a lot better but still not great. But now here is where it gets really weird. The model is supposed to be 50mmby tjhj2 - General
Hi all, Thanks for the help so far and we are making progress... After some failures last night... I dropped the set temp to 165 (Which is a measured barrel temp of 178) and slowed the retract to 15mm/s. I had tried dropping the temp before but it got worse so slowing the retract helped a lot. I also dropped the nozzle diameter in slicer to .35 the correct size. I am still getting some blobby tjhj2 - General
peterash, I have tried to set my filament diamater as accuratly as I can, I took the extruder nozzle off, and told pointerface to make a movement over and over adjusting the steps per mm until I had repeatably consistant results. I then have constantly measured my filament diamater and get the same results at 2.90mm with the highest being 2.91mm at one point. So relating to that and nophead'sby tjhj2 - General
Hello All, I finally had a chance to print a test cube, and get some more tweaking done on my machine. I have my backlash down to .05mm on X and Y. I also got a thermocouple that would fit in my nozzle, at a setting of 180deg the thermocouple reads 172. At 190 setting it reads 180. I am not really sure where that puts me relative to everyone else printing temperatures. I also did a little testby tjhj2 - General
I think I found part of the problem... It helps if the guide bars can actually tighten down... Maybe its just me... Fail.... Thanks for all the help.by tjhj2 - General
Hi, That is with two fans mounted. A 40mm on the backside using this duct. and a 50mm angled about 45 deg downward. There has to bea point where too much cooling is happening. I haven't seen much improvement using .2mm layers. I'll try and post pictures tonight.by tjhj2 - General
Hi All, I am looking for suggestions to make my prints look decent. I cant seem to figure out what I have wrong. I am using Slic3r, with ramps 1.4, maker gear kit. I have checked the movement of X, Y and Z and it is within 0.01mm for step settings. The extruder I checked by taking off the nozzle and adjusting steps until I got an exact amount of filament for the command to move it. It comesby tjhj2 - General
Hi all, Can slicer do backlash compensation? If so where is the setting for it. I can't find it. Thank you for your time and help.by tjhj2 - General
Maybe I have an electronics issue. But if I turn the motor current up much more the motor start skipping, or chopping. Doing the opposite of what I want. I don't feel I'm missing steps because if I move I one direction zero the indicator and move 1mm the same direction it moves 1.00 mm or is off by less then I can measure. I'll try the print.by tjhj2 - General
Hi all, Sublime, I used 200mm/min movement speed. For method 1. (relative movement set and federate) G1 X0.01 or G1 X-0.01. For method 2 I used the pointer face dialog box. With 200 set in federate. So to measure my backlash I measured it two ways. This was how I was taught to check a Cnc mill. So it may be incorrect. I mounted a dial indicator (it's .001 in precision, analog) to the frame oby tjhj2 - General
So the best I can do with my makergear prusa is .011 in (0.28 mm) this seems high. Can you get to zero backlash with belts? How little can you get your machine to? Thank you Edited because I can convert I swear. What was .028 should be 0.28by tjhj2 - General
They are a range of sizes. Nothing I would say is particularly small. I had the fan thought first but there has to be a limit. I have a 40mm fan with duct on the backside, and a 50mm fan on the front I started with them 100% on. But now I let slic3r pick the speed with minimum at 50% max 100%. When I say melting I mean like a pile of molten goo on top. Just a giant blob bring pushed around by tby tjhj2 - General
Hello All, I am just confused now, where do I want to measure the extruder temperature to get a calibration? 3MM PLA. I have been using 185 but parts have literally started melting halfway through the build, they just sag down. So I am going with this is too hot, but what is a good way to figure out the correct nozzle temperature? I suspect there should be a number like 180 for the plastic asby tjhj2 - General
The title says it but why does skienforge take so long to slice? I sliced the same model in Slic3r and skienforge. Slic3r took 1 min 9 seconds. Skienforge took 43 min. That is a huge difference. Do I have something wrong? Thank you for your time and help,by tjhj2 - General
GITRDUN Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My first thought would be to spray or inject metal > flakes or powder into the molten plastic as it is > being extruded. You would then have a plastic / > metal part. Kind of like concrete. It has a lot of > gravel and materials mixed in to add strength. I > would think it would be much stronger than just &by tjhj2 - General
What about using something like a mig welder? Deposit and Weld a drop on each location you want? That was my thought to print with metal.by tjhj2 - General
Nophead, What do you run for PLA temp settings? Thank you,by tjhj2 - General
Akhlut, The extra layer is because I was printing directly on the tape then added the glass. It seemed easier not to remove it since it was hell to get it on to start with and if I need to go back. Do you think it's affecting it? Thank youby tjhj2 - General
What is a better way to measure the tempature? A temp probe doesn't seem accurate. Because of hard to contact. Is there as much inaccuracy with the krypton tape? I'm not printing direct to glass, currently it goes PCB (layer of kapton) glass covered with kaypton. Thank you for the help and suggestions.by tjhj2 - General
Hi, I am getting some warping when printing a larger object and was wondering what the correct print bed temp should be? I have been running it at 55 dec C (as measured by an IR temp gun) all the way through the build. Do you guys run it at the same temp? Or do you decrease or increase it after the 1st layer? Or should I increase or decrease the bed temperature for the entire build? What iby tjhj2 - General