That is a really simple and nice design! Should be good for drying out filament as well. Loving the drawings as well. I finally finished mine last week, it only holds 4 spools as I am tight for space. Plus it only really is designed to keep the filament dry, assuming the filament is already dry. On the plus side it seems to hold 30-40% humidity and the magnetic latched door works really well. Sby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Hardened bearing shaft has caused me so much pain at work, here is my advise: 1. Hardened bearing shaft (Chrome plated steel or can be hardened 440 stainless steel if you have a large wallet) usually around 60-64 HrC (Rockwell): I used chrome plated hardened steel bearing shaft on my Tantalus, because I had some lying around. It is great in high load applications due to is low surface roughnessby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
I cut my version on VLS6.60, I used a 0.1mm offset to get a good fit (i.e. 0.2mm diameter spot size), then ran a 22mm hand reamer through the bearing holes to get a good fit. You probably do not need to ream them though. Make sure you focus the laser well however as this caused me grief in the beginning. In my CAD model, I put in a offset configuration on the panels to allow for this, however Iby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Which version of STL is this done off? Sublimes blender imperial one or the copy metric SW one I did?by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
@mfeherpataky Unfortunately/fortunately growing up in a tool room and now working in optics/microelectronics, it is just 2nd nature for me to pick up 0.1-0.2mm issues. My skype status says it all "isnt life odd when you work in µm" even the shortcut for µ is muscle memory for me. So 0.1 to 0.2mm stands out like a sore thumb to me, sigh. Good to know this shouldn't cause me issues though, I willby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
>I just became a > dad a few days ago and things have been crazy. Trying to get the young one 3D printing already? Jokes aside congrats bud!by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Multimeters are really easy to use don't be put off by there scary industrial yellow color. It's like a clip board for electrical engineers, no one will question you if you have a multimeter....... Heaps of simple tutorials on line as well, google as always is your friend: Just be careful with the probes they tend to slip then short things out then the magic smoke gets out. Stick to under 24Vby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
I'm pretty new to this game as well deathstar but I can tell you with my limited knowledge: 1. This printer is good. I have run a uprint plus ($20K USD) 3d printer at work now for a year and this printer has better layer resolution........... 2. I am now running the black edition Pololu drivers (http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2128) and the are really good thermally when you are doing stby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Average........ I know your pain. On mine I cooked the heating resistor, due to running it at 19V and an air pocket in some thermal paste. Here is what I would do (sublime may have better idea's however): 1. Get a magic smoke meter (aka multimeter) with the machine off measure the resistance of the heater resistor on its legs (see attached). If it is open then it is dead. Should be around 5.6by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
I am trying to figure out what the best way is to nest multiple parts into a print using slicer 0.7.2b, as I do not want to deviate from the recommended G-code generator for tantillus. Anybody got any good methods for this or pointers? I tried netfab but the free version does let you export multiple STL's into one STL, and I cannot find anything to aid me in slicer.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
@mefeherpataky, Yup this printer is awesome, the engineers at work must think so to because they I have a queue of 5 people wanting parts . I am just being a bit OCD getting the best I can out of it print on print off......... (Sublime can we buy parts from you as well?) I am down to 0.1-0.2mm warpage on the gears now and it appears to be evenly concentric now. Are you getting better than that,by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Clean the glass with acetone Yeah I have been pretty OCD with that, since you recommended it in another thread. > But I have also > printed some 30+ machines worth of them. Yeah that's what I figured, and my goal at the moment is to replicate your quality. I think my flow is up to high to compensate for the geaby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
@Eric, Yeah hobbed bolts, sigh. I have learnt a lot though. At the moment I am running M6 and die springs (all I had lying around with a bit of grunt). Seems to work well, however I have the flow up at 500 and the speed at 30. So something still aint right. I'm going to try M5, just making a special tool up for it now. I'll post up the results in a separate thread when I know more. Nada on the hby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Right so I have managed to get a bit of CAD time in and here is what I have: Option A: Spools and Rolls. Holds both rolls of material and spools. 3 Diamond age (D/A) rolls and 4 D/A spools. Measures 350 X 356 X 470mm. Option B: Rolls only Holds spools only however you could stack things on top rails. 8 D/A Spools. Still 350 X 356mm but height gets pushed out to 550mm ish. Rolls can probably jby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Sorry for the late reply chaps, I have been a bit busy, and become a bit OCD about finding the perfect gear and hobbed bolt. See attached. Still its a hard road mate finding the perfect hobbed bolt mate. @mfeherpataky I tried to make the parts as close as possible, but alas it sounds like they are not interchangeable. I would say there has been precision lost in me manually measuring the STLby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The squaring jug is a little much. Duh, I see now, good call. Scratch what I said. I'm so use to clocking things, and using jigs that I miss the simple things now days. I'll take note to add that one into the drawings I do as a small annotation.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
So I started printing the metric versions of the gears in PLA on my tantillus, exciting times until, 2hrs in the plastic stopped extruding. Seemed the hobbing on the hobbed bolt had been gunked up gradully with PLA from where it has been biting into the filament, sigh. I was running at (fine config 0.35mm nozzle) 390 flow, 45 max speed and 7mm retraction with 173oC nozzle temp. It was running reby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Oh classic I just adjusted Eric's SD holder to be clip on as well. Was going to push with next release of metric laser cut model. Just tried it today, seems to work. Another thing I was thinking about was making a squaring bar to square the axis's up quickly and easily. See attached.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
So I have bought beautiful diamond age material, but I have nothing to put it in which does it justice and keeps it dry. Currently zip lock bags and silica gel is just not doing it for me. Looked at buying a auto dry box but at $400 out of the question. I almost have a full sheet of 3mm Acrylic spare and a laser cutter at my disposal, hmmmmmmmmmmm I think as I do boring paper work at work. Thenby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Ok, I have pushed latest model, everything should be pretty much sorted now. Also I have saved of DXF's for cutting and STL's for printing. However could bet the rent I have not got orientation correct in STL's for printing. But it all should help hopefully. Eric if you email solid works files of your SD bracket I can include them in next push. On my printer, sigh, I finally found what was giviby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Had to make glass 107mm wide to fit with tolerance between bolt heads, but such is. Queue moron feeling, another reason I am not a programmer and git is good. I will fix revision issue. And double key moron feeling for not picking diamond age up in a google search, I am shocked there is a local supplier and I only have to pay local shipping fee's. Such a good change for once. Usually I have toby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Just doing my job chaps, now where has my red stapler gone? Copying is easy, designing is hard - CAD on, CAD off.............. I have fixed the end-stop issue, and almost fixed the platter issues. However Sublime can you give me the dimensions of the glass. Can't find it anywhere on your BOM website page, maybe I am going blind however in my old age. Also I will keep gears as is, as per Sublimby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
"If you book them they will update the CAD model" Updated model 0.5 now on Github. I have included an STL file also, hopefully it works. I managed to all the changes except (see readme) I could not find the missing feature on the end-stop holder. Fire up a photo/comparison and I will fix. I also still need to update the platters to correct dimensions, that is tomorrows job. Anything more justby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
"Good New Everybody!" I have managed to get the latest SW model up on Github and it looks like I have done it properly now! Big ups to eric for the involuted gear/electronics models as well, the assembly is looking pretty sweet now. The only thing is I think I have the plattern design wrong. If someone can tell me the dim's of the glass and the acrylic platters I will correct. I could not find tby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Hey Eric, bit late to be telling you (I'm playing forum reading catch up now) this but you can get the heater resistors direct from digikey, they are the UB5 series. The 5.6ohm one is at: I am using the 10ohm version now, due to my power supply being a bit high, but you probably do not need to worry about this. However if you use thermal paste, make sure there are no air pockets in it. Air pockby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Well I tried Tequila, but I just wound up in a gutter in Mexico........... So after a short walk back to NZ, I tried this: 1. Found some old heatsinks from a after market GPU cooler system I had and thermally glued these to the Pololu's. See attached photo's. The heatsinks seem to run at about 50oC-60oC (touchable), so win there. 2. Decided to heatsink, the 5V reg, on the Audrino board, considby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
You guys are legends! Thanks heaps. Just as a side note I think I will also try laser etching a piece of glass, and see how that goes. Basically forms micro scratches/cracks on the surface might be a good way of getting the material to stick, and then no more tape consumables. Somehow I think it might end in disaster though.......by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
I tried have tried a few generic blue masking (painters tape) with no success. Kapton is touch and go with out a heated bed. Then I saw this roll down at the engineering store today which looks the 3M/scotch brand labelled as the one to get/works. See attached photo's. My question is, does this look like the stuff you get up in North America? It is labelled Scotch Blue painters tape for multby willworkforplastic - Tantillus
BOOM TANTILLUS SHOT! That is epic! Nice work.by willworkforplastic - Tantillus
Well running a 5.6ohm heater resistor off a 19V and using graphite heatsink paste is not a good idea. They last for about 10 hours before being toasted quiet nicely. See attached photo's . Thought my hotend heated up really quickly and the massive overshoot was odd. 64W into a 5W resistor = fail. So the question is should I: 1.Use the 'standard' loose fitting 6.8ohm resistor and fire motor iby willworkforplastic - Tantillus