I'm having some issues with the Y-axis skipping steps (at least I think that's it - pics attached) and wondering if anyone has had similar problems or knows what the exact cause may be. Pretty sure it's mechanical as my Pololu current settings have been working fine and have not changed. There's a ridiculous amount of Vaseline on all the rods so lubrication shouldn't be it. With the power off Iby Eric Young - Tantillus
oz9ny Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have looked through the stl's for the metric > Tantillus and found that in the Z-arm_2.stl needs > a rotation along either x- or y-axis, else there > is too much overhang :-) I think you can just not lay down as may first layer loops, or make them closer to the part, or both. I made an STL with a different coorby Eric Young - Tantillus
That looks really pro WWFP, I'm loving the umbrella etched on the front As for posting to Thingiverse I was never too concerned about the legal stuff myself. To me the biggest concern is whether I'm supporting their business by posting my stuff there and gaining them traffic and recognition. Like many others I will continue posting there until there is a good alternative, as it seems to me theby Eric Young - Tantillus
WWFP it sounds like your design is really nice and tidy. This is late but... not sure which option is best and I guess it depends on how many rolls/spools you plan on keeping around. I'd say the bigger the better.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Just posted an inexpensive 5 gallon bucket dry-box design (based on this thread) on Thingiverse if anyone is interested:by Eric Young - Tantillus
@ngajjar searched "3M 2090 United Kingdom" and got a ton of hits. here's one of the first: Not sure why/how it works, but imagine it's mostly due to material and particularly the surface finish. @glyn I personally tend to replace my tape after each print unless I'm making very small parts that pull off easily. I use the 3 inch wide 3M 2090 tape for about 90% of my prints and it's quick to repby Eric Young - Tantillus
From my experience it's close to impossible to catch all the details on an initial design release. Much harder even when you're working alone. Should be pretty straightforward to make the changes and export the STL's/DXF's from Solidworks. I can do it, just not sure when I could have it finished as there's a lot on my plate right now.by Eric Young - Tantillus
I was just futzing around with the XY end, but your suggestion sounds like a great one! From an initial glance it looks to me like it would work, but Sublime probably has a thing or two to say about this.by Eric Young - Tantillus
I should say I'm willing to help out in any way I can as well, not just for a Kickstarter. Just not sure that my help would be useful for anything else. @ jztopa Looking at the Kickstarter catagories/guidelines I think you're probably right as I can't see what category a website would fit under. At the same time they might consider a website a product despite being intangible. I searched and coby Eric Young - General
This thread is intended to be a place for discussing new ideas and designs pertaining to all things Tantillus. It's more for unproven stuff, whereas if you have a design that already works it should probably get posted in the "Tantillus Upgrades and Add-ons" thread. If you have an idea, but think it might be unworthy, please toss it out anyways. I've had plenty of seemingly silly ideas turn intby Eric Young - Tantillus
Great suggestions as always. Think I'll add another insert/set screw for the bushing.by Eric Young - Tantillus
A thought from a noob: If one or more of the reputable RepRappers put together a Kickstarter campaign to raise funding for an alternative Thingiverse I would jump at the chance to throw in $20 (more if it looked like the campaign needed it) and I'm guessing there are a lot of others who would do the same. I'd think raising enough money to have a professional site developed would be pretty easyby Eric Young - General
Was also thinking of putting some threaded inserts into the 4 top holes of the extruder in order to make removing/attaching the idler a little easier (since the springs would be captivated by the screws during install if they're flipped around). Is this an okay thread to be posting this kind of stuff in? I figured since it's untested stuff it doesn't really yet belong in the add-ons/modificationby Eric Young - Tantillus
Not sure if this is the best thread for this, or even if it's news to anyone, but there is a 3 inch wide version of the 3M blue tape available and since I found out about it I've been using it for the majority of my prints since they almost always lie within the 3" width. Attached a pic to show what it looks like on the build plate during a print.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Whoa lots of gears and hobbed bolts. And poor Jackie Chan he looks stressed out. I'm with you on the hobbed bolt issue - I've taken to cleaning the grooves in mine after every 10 or so hours of printing because it seems that's around the time it's become filled up with PLA bits and starts to fail. It does seem to me like translucent filament fairs a little better and doesn't require the cleaninby Eric Young - Tantillus
Oh yeah and I was using the newer XY end design btw.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Good to know about the lead screw/motor shaft and Z-travel. Approx what do you think the minimum shaft length would be? I spent some brain-juice on the XY-end last night and attached is the best I came up with. It requires M3 and M4 threaded-inserts to work (as shown in the image). I think the concept might work decently, but definitely needs testing and your eyes to take a look. It's only .5mmby Eric Young - Tantillus
Great thread tjhj2. I created the attached PCB covers today because I've dropped my binder clips a couple times now and one came waaaay too close to shorting some of the leads on the RAMPS board. There are lots of Arduino/RAMPS covers on Thingiverse and the difference is that these are designed to be easily removable for access to the boards without taking the mounting screws off. Also attachedby Eric Young - Tantillus
Hey Sublime is there any reason that the lead screw could not be shortened by about 4-8mm? I'm taking a shot at designing a different XY end and it need to be a little taller, which isn't an issue from the looks of it other than hitting the lead screw.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Great post WWFP. I've not gotten any filament on spools yet and when I do it'll come from Diamond Age as well, so no help from me as far as sizes go. I dig the light bulb idea. I've been thinking about drying filament too and my best idea was to use large foil ziploc-style bags (or any type of bag with low moisture/vapor transmission rate) and create a 3D printed part(s) that could be attachedby Eric Young - Tantillus
just sent them Holy crap, rocks! I was getting so friggin frustrated trying to find a high-quality vendor in the US with a good variety of different colored 3mm PLA that didn't come only on 5lb spools. And impact resistant grades? Yes please! Video of a stretchy bracelet printed with the impact modified PLA from Diamond Age / printbl.com.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Great stuff Simba! Got a few thoughts I want to toss out. 1 - How about trying a ferrous filler? 2 - Maybe a lubricious filler to make something similar to a flouropolymer? I think the chemical emissions during printing might make this a non-starter... not really sure. Could be nice for parts like bearings/bushings etc if it could be pulled off. Also this type of material probably wouldn't absby Eric Young - General
WWFP FTW. Sublime just let me know if you want help with the aesthetics.by Eric Young - Tantillus
Yeah WWFP did a bang up job of it. His models are super easy to modify/revise too because he set up all the dimensional relationships with thoughtfulness. Awesome stuff. Your redline list above is all pretty simple stuff and I'm willing to fix it up over the next week or so. Sounds like it's probably better to export STL's for each piece separately in addition to the entire assembly STL, so I'llby Eric Young - Tantillus
Tried to put the STL here: I think it worked because I can download the STL, but I cannot open and check the STL myself because it crashes Solidworks. Also I had an error message when I pushed/uploaded the repo from my command line, but it looks to me like everything uploaded fine. If you want each part by itself I can do that easily as well (it just takes a checkbox click - I don't have to saby Eric Young - Tantillus
Apologies for the lagging response - crap hit the fan with a project I'm working on and I wanted to focus on that for a couple days. @Sublime Thanks for the link. I ended up spending many hours yesterday and today reading through various blogs/forums etc and trying to digest all that is happening with the MBI TOS/closed source Replicator2 situation. I don't believe I have much new to add to thby Eric Young - Tantillus
The tracking ability of Github does seem really nice (if I understand it correctly). I think I have more learning to do before I can comprehend the open-source design control issues at hand. Searched for 'Tangiblebytes", "tangiblebytes.org" and "Tangible Bytes" in the RepRap forums and only found one thread besides this one where it is mentioned. Is it talked about anywhere else besides these foby Eric Young - Tantillus
That's very good to know about the different Slic3r versions, thanks for the explanation. For the Thingiverse TOS, is the bothersome part the fact that Makerbot can sell a closed source product based on other people's design work and without paying royalties? Your TangibleBytes.org site sounds like a great idea. I don't really know any web developers who could do the integration coding with thby Eric Young - Tantillus
Thanks Sublime for the response on the flipping Z coordinates. I haven't tried to fix it yet (been printing all kinds of other stuff) but if I figure it out I'll be sure to post about it. So this morning I got a message from a Thingiverse member (about this Thing I uploaded: ) saying something along the lines of "Thanks for uploading your design, but the tolerances are too tight for normal 3D prby Eric Young - Tantillus