Hey Sublime... so I tried wiring up the LCD using the little shield board you made for me. It worked just great, first time out. Thanks! The only problem I'm having now is with wiring my encoder. I think the connections are pretty standard... two pins on one side, three pins on the other, and the center clips are grounds, however Suntek doesn't supply any useful documentation of it. I triedby Yonderboy - Tantillus
Thanks Sublime. I'm gonna go grab some 10k pots today so that I can wire one up. Meanwhile, could you re-link tommyc's Panel max instructions... The link above seems wrong. Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am back and I have a pinout schematic in the > almost every step of the electronics instructions. > Electronics To see how the pins of thby Yonderboy - Tantillus
Good mod suggestion, Eric. I'll try that if removing the nib alone isn't enough. Any thoughts on my wiring questions, anyone? I realize that I'm beginning to miss Sublime when he's out of the country. ;-)by Yonderboy - Tantillus
Thanks Eric. In checking my carriage movement, it seems to have more than 100mm total physical range of movement in each direction. As such, if pushed right to the corners, it can seem to position the head a couple of mm off the glass build platform. But given that my glass platform is larger than 100mm in each direction, I assumed that it may be no problem if the software does constrain the mby Yonderboy - Tantillus
So I ultimately bought my my rotary encoder and LCD screen from Suntek Store (I bought lost of extras too, just in case). But I had a couple more questions: These images are of my rotary encoders: It was supposed to be a 10-pack, but they only shipped me 7 of them. Jerks! Also, try as I might, I couldn't find any documentation of what the pinouts would be. Would the pinouts on aby Yonderboy - Tantillus
So I've been pretty busy since last week and over the weekend, so I had been left with precious little time to spend on my Tantillus build. Still I've made *some* progress... Over the weekend, I found a framing shop that could cut my glass print bed for me, and I found some #8 - 32 1.5" pan head machine screws to replace my too-short 1" screws on my build platform too. The framing shop dudeby Yonderboy - Tantillus
Another couple of parts question... Sublime, you never added a glass plate for the build platform to the BOM. I know you said you included those in the complete kits, but not in the acrylic or hardware parts kit. 1.) What was the thickness and dimensions of the glass that you had cut for you? 2.) How do you go about attaching it to the build platform? Cheers, Frankby Yonderboy - Tantillus
Worked a little more on my build tonight, but I didn't make a lot of progress as I'm still waiting on Gerald to reprint a few parts for me. However, I did come up with a couple of questions... 1.) I've had the problem of one of the linear bearings on my carriage regularly popping out and staying on the rod (see the image below). Is there a recommended way to better secure the bearing in the cby Yonderboy - Tantillus
pokey9000 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Looks like you're using the same color filament > I'm using for my case. Is that the repraper.com > blue? Hey Pokey... yep, that's repraper.com blue PLA. I only bought 1.7mm in that colour for Gerald to use in printing my parts. He was able to do all the needed parts with less than a full 1KG spool, althoughby Yonderboy - Tantillus
GeraldO Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I ended up getting the corners to fit like a > glove: I scaled them up by 2% and decreased the > flow rate quite a bit. It now fits snug, but just > enough that you don't need a dremel to take them > off The lesson that Gerald and I learned in this process is clearly that if you are printing your parts withby Yonderboy - Tantillus
Yesterday's update: busy day on my Tantillus build. Gerald came by and we worked for a little while on it together. Ultimately prior to seeing your response here, Sublime, I had solved the problem of the loose hotend by padding out the thickness of the groove by wrapping Kapton tape around it, and also wrapping tape on the inner edge of the acrylic piece. You can see below. Sublime'by Yonderboy - Tantillus
I confess, I've had the same concerns about proceeding too far without really clear instructions, reference images, and videos. Are you assembling one of Sublime's complete kits, or did you self-source some of the parts?by Yonderboy - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This is actually a result of the flow rate on > Geralds machine being to high. When you print them > on Tantillus they are actually a little loose. > This may be a sign that all the parts Gerald > printed will be a little tight and could cause > issues. Basically if the printers flow is too high > (or usby Yonderboy - Tantillus
Note: A lot of what I'm writing up here may be freakin' obvious to you experienced Reprappers. I'm a good tinkerer, but this is my first 3D printer, so I fully expect to run face first into a bunch of total newbie issues that all you guys with two or three printers already have encountered a bunch before an wouldn't even see as a snag. Given that Sublime expects the Tantillus to get into theby Yonderboy - Tantillus
So I had opportunity last Wednesday to pick up my Tantillus acrylic and hardware parts kits (Thanks Sublime!!), and thus my Tantillus build has begun in earnest. ;-) First order of business was to assemble the case. It went together okay, but I did run in to a minor issue. The lower four corner pieces, which like all my printed parts had been printed for me by GeraldO on his Makerbot Reby Yonderboy - Tantillus
That's some very useful clarification. Thanks a lot, Pokey9000. I may order one of those from Mouser as well, if it turns out that my microswitches aren't adequate. Sublime... I don't plan to do anything with your code in the Tantillus. Is there any concern about debouncing in this build as VDX has suggested? Are you using microswitches or optocouplers in your Tantillus (Tantilluses? Tanby Yonderboy - Tantillus
Ahh... I just made sense of things (I think). I hadn't quite wrapped my head around what the "endstop" was that pokey9000 was talking about placing an order for. He was referring to the switch, which gets attached to the endstop printed part... which is what you were showing the images with measurements above. I see... now it all comes together. I'm familiar with those specific switches.by Yonderboy - Tantillus
Heya Sublime, It was great getting to meet you and pick up my hardware and acrylic parts tonight. I'm looking forward to building my Tantillus... A couple of questions: Firstly, I was looking at your BOM, and I see no mention of "endstops" under electronics (or elsewhere in the list, for that matter), yet in the build instructions I see step 4 of the electronics section is "Endstop". What iby Yonderboy - Tantillus
Thanks so much for the really detailed clarification. I think that's everything I can think of for the moment. Now I'm off to place some orders. Cheers! ;-)by Yonderboy - Tantillus
Heya Sublime... So, I confess that my excitement is building. Today I took receipt of my order of 8kg of filament from Reprapers.com... 6kg of 3mm PLA to give me some stock on hand for when my Tantillus comes together, and 2kg of 1.75mm PLA for GeraldO who is going to be printing my parts for me on his Replicator. I supported your Maker Faire Indiegogo campaign, at the $200 level so thby Yonderboy - Tantillus
Sadly I missed the Vancouver Maker Faire again, as it seems to always collide with another annual event that I make a point of going to over on the Island. With any luck it won't collide next year. Myself, I'm very new to 3D printing (I don't have one yet), but I'm a lifelong geek and tinkerer. My good friend and work colleague, GeraldO on this forum, is big into the 3D printing lately and pby Yonderboy - Tantillus