On my computer the Z button is actually green. ...and it doesn't do anything when I click on it. I figured out (a little later - face palm) that the long string of T:24.* was a temperature reading. Make sense. A bit disturbing that it isn't going up. Although it's a handy home thermometer because the analog one on the wall is very hard to read when the temperature goes above 20. Currentlby Lisa M - Tantillus
I went to Canadian Tire and Home Depot but they don't have the bolts. If anyone finds them, please let me know. I'd love to finish this. I'm going to a local build day on Aug 30 so I'll probably get my bolts then if I can't find them sooner. I've heard Pacific Fasteners in Burnaby might carry them but I won't have time until later next week to go check them out. I agree with you ernchesto.by Lisa M - Tantillus
Got brave and hit the print button... I didnt' think anything would happen yet ...but I thought maybe some clue would be given This is what was in the Panel on the right: Connecting... start Printer is now online. echo: External Reset Marlin: 1.0.0 RC2 echo: Last Updated: 2012-06-22 | Author: Sublime echo: Free Memory: 4542 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232 echo:Using Default settings: echoD card ok okby Lisa M - Tantillus
This is what my screen shows in pronterface: The Tantillus LCD shows 023/000 Tantillus 000% When I click the connect button, and then the Motors button this happens: When I click the reset button the Tantillus LCD shows 023/000 Released. 000% I'm guessing by bumpers you mean clicking the left, right, up, down target area. Nothing happens when I do that. The right panel does not show aby Lisa M - Tantillus
Sweet. I'm glad it is that simple. Phew. I wondered about the bolts too. I'm eager so I'll see if I can find them.by Lisa M - Tantillus
With pronterface connected to the tantillus, it finds the printer but the motors off button is greyed out and pressing it does nothing. Anyone know? Note: I don't think I can currently print because of my bed issue ...but I'm trying to learn more anyway.by Lisa M - Tantillus
What if I added more glass plates to the bed. I have two more ...and a bigger clip to clamp them to the bed. Can anyone forsee a danger with that idea? That would get the print surface closer to the hot end ...but also reduce print distance on the z axis.by Lisa M - Tantillus
Hmm... I was trying to line up the bed ...when I realized something is wrong with this picture. I can't get the upper bed close enough to the hot end. It won't go any higher. Is the endstop bracket to big? Is the z-axis top too thick? Are the holes in the case that the z-axis assembly mounts to in the wrong place? Is it something else? I can't figure it out. My assembly of the z-axis matchby Lisa M - Tantillus
Kewl thank Pokey. Now my LCD on the tantillus says 029/000 Tantillus 000% ...which definitely looks like something it should say. I'm hoping I can figure out how to complete the setup tonight.by Lisa M - Tantillus
Just working through getting the firmware installed... but construction is complete ...I think. I've got the computer to recognize the arduino board but it won't upload the Marlin Firmware. I keep getting this compile error: core.a(main.cpp.o): In function `main': C:\Documents and Settings\lmulzet\Desktop\3DPrintSoftware-Tantillus\arduino-0023\hardware\arduino\cores\arduino/main.cpp:7: undefby Lisa M - Tantillus
@sublime Do I have the motor connector oriented correctly in my picture? Blue 2B Red 2A Green 1A Black 1B ...or does that even matter? Thanks, Lisaby Lisa M - Tantillus
is it the 5planed black metal looking piece sitting on top of each one? ...looks like a mini cpu cooler?by Lisa M - Tantillus
Uh, to answer that question I'd have to know what a heatsink is. ...remember I know nothing about electronics ...except I kind of know what a resistor looks like ...and sometimes I can identify a capacitor ...I know a resistor "resists" current ...and yup that's all I got.by Lisa M - Tantillus
I'm the step where it says "Install four step stick drivers in the sockets on the RAMPS board for X, Y, Z and E0. See the RAMPS wiki page for orientation" ...but the RAMPS wiki page is greek to me and I can't find the part where I would see the "orientation" I'm not ever sure what a "step stick driver" is and which of the little pieces of silicone in front of me might be that. Any chance youby Lisa M - Tantillus
Once again ze plastic glue and clamps seem to have done the trick. Hopefully it will hold and be tolerant of actual printingby Lisa M - Tantillus
"Frack! Seriously?!?" were the words mumbled a few minutes earlier when this happened... I got the cable figured out from the videos and pictures. Thank you! It was very helpful. However I couldn't feed the cable under the washer so I had to pull the bolt and washer out. When I went to screw the bolt back in, the nut had shifted. I barely applied any pressure ...and the xy end cracked. Pby Lisa M - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: > First I should say that the 212 is from the > original prototype and they now use 210mm rods > (fixing on the site now). I figured that one out Thanks for the videos and images. That helps immensely. I didn't figure out the notch that the cable runs through and that was key. Also seeing how the cable runs back and forth is very helpful. What type of cable is thaby Lisa M - Tantillus
Okay, I confess... I can't stop ...can't wait for the pictures ...but I'm not sure about this part: "Taking the remainder of the long cable, run it behind the XY end to the opposing 5/16" by 212mm rod and proceed to wrap it around the rod 5 to 10 times." 1.) What direction do I wrap the long end in on the opposing 212 bar? Other questions: 2.) Does it go in the groove of the XY on the adjacentby Lisa M - Tantillus
Erp... a little frustrated by the cable assembly part... so I'll wait for pictures.by Lisa M - Tantillus
> If you give me a little while to get other things > caught up I will send you new corners. I am sure > this is a result of mising info in the > instructions. It's alright. It was just one top corner. It cracked minorly during case assembly. Then when I was putting the rods in, it completely cracked along a layer line all the way around but I used some clamps and plastic glue aby Lisa M - Tantillus
I'm assembling one of sublime's complete kits. I would have had difficulty sourcing the stuff ...for example I would have no way to drill and cut the steel rods and acrylic case. I also don't have access to an existing 3D printer. This my first 3D printer. I was introduced to the concept just this year and saw them for the first time in action at Makerfaire Vancouver. I'm am a total newb andby Lisa M - Tantillus
I've finished the hot end, x/y assembly, rod install, and added two gears. I'm now at the part where I need to cut cables ...but there are no pictures yet and the videos on sublime's site are not working for me at the moment (browser settings probably). I had to file out the inside of the 5/16 nuts that go in the gears because they would slide onto the rod. It's slow going but I'm enjoying it!by Lisa M - Tantillus
I had splits on my upper corner too... pushed the rod right through ...guess I'm all thumbs. However, it was nothing that a little plastic glue couldn't fix.by Lisa M - Tantillus