Been running my cable z for a day or so now, I notice that during printing and maybe during layer changes the z platform will shift laterally a little momentarily but it seems to settle back in place where it should. I seem to recall my screw driven z doing the same, have you ever seen this? I should also add that it is working great so far!by goopyplastic - Tantillus
The good news, updated the github with a current and complete set of parts. The bad news, my tantillus is starting to look like something playschool made! perhaps it is just the odd choice of colors. It is now complete mechanically, need to start working on the electronics.by goopyplastic - Tantillus
Does the cable just friction fit around the drum? Like it doesn't go through the the drum like on the x/y rods? Any recommendation for number of turns around the drum? Any reason the drum has a hole in the top of it?by goopyplastic - Tantillus
The knobs I have for a couple of reasons: - so I can easily manually jog the x/y - they hold the 608's in place - they keep the shafts from moving laterally - they will look neat spinning @ Sublime The airtripper may be temporary until I get it running and tuned. I could go with a geared airtripper with a phidgets or kysan 5:1 gearbox stepper as well. I also don't have a source of hobbed bolts aby goopyplastic - Tantillus
Finally something to update, it's definitely coming along and I am really happy with it so far. More Pics on Flikr Also I have made the github current https://github.com/goopyplastic/tslot-tantillus/by goopyplastic - Tantillus
On page 5, it shows a m3x40 and m3x50 used on the carraige, but shows m4 nuts bolting onto them.by goopyplastic - Tantillus
I will add that 8mm precision shafting seems to fit through the 608's fine, the rods I bought from VXB (chromed steel) and ultimachine (stainless steel) do, I think the irregularity of less precise rods like drill rods are where 8mm won't fit through (the 8mm drill rod from mcmaster would not fit).by goopyplastic - Tantillus
I am assembling my tslot tantillus and was running into some issues with the x/y ends and binding during assembly, problems I don't recall on my first tantillus kit from sublime ( rods and printed bushing were supplied). Initial Setup: I remade the x/y ends so that the bushing was integrated into a single piece, I am thinking this was a mistake as they may need some ability to deflect a littleby goopyplastic - Tantillus
I could probably print a printed parts set for people in the US. As far as makerfarm, I made some corner pieces that would better fit them here: as far as my thoughts on the makerfarm frame, it is good for the price but definitely on the lower end.by goopyplastic - Tantillus
Another thumbs up for you guys, the pdf is awesomeby goopyplastic - Tantillus
Is PLA ok for the carriage top / bottom pieces or with the heat should they be printed in ABS?by goopyplastic - Tantillus
It is meant to work with the standard tantillus Z axis. I am currently building it up with the cable Z axis (and converting some of it to metric), which has the benefit of not needing a separate motor mount. The top mount is a little flexible currently although the parts are 5mm thick so fairly rigid. Once I have the Z bolted together I can see if it needs more reinforcement or not. I do agree,by goopyplastic - Tantillus
Nice work Haven't had as much time to play around lately, but thought I would show a pic of the frame.by goopyplastic - Tantillus
Made a GitHub: https://github.com/goopyplastic/tslot-tantillus BOM should be in the README as well, at least that is the intention. I printed off the separate panel parts and I just don't like them as much, they float around in the t-slot a but before tightening making registration potentially an issue plus they weren't as rigid as I wanted. I had good results with a test print with a combinedby goopyplastic - Tantillus
1. jzatopa [email protected] 2. goopyplastic 3.by goopyplastic - For Sale
The printed panel is quite strong, and I think that I might be able to get away with scaling back some of the extrusions, for example I don't know if the middle extrusions are all that necessary.One main benefit is that the interior of the machine should be more accessible. I was toying with one piece corners: But I think printing those would be needlessly difficult and that separate pieces woby goopyplastic - Tantillus
There is a flange underneath it restricting the depth of the bearing in the hole. The exterior face will be kept in place by the little knob/collars on the shafts. Might be fun to make a snap fit lip on the top too, but that would be harder to replicate consistently if others were trying to print it. I do think the rod movement I had in my first tantillus was due to rough bearings / rods. Havingby goopyplastic - Tantillus
I have some more time to work on this so hopefully will be updating this as time goes on. I only had an Afinia printer so printing the panels wasn't an option (too much warping in abs, and poor pla support). Got around to getting my i3 printing so now I have a printer to print parts for this on. Did a test print of one of the panels just to check clearances and part strength etc.. Video of paby goopyplastic - Tantillus
I have a New Budaschozzle 1.1 w/ .5mm tip for sale, never used ready to go It has the 3mm insert installed, but also comes with the 1.75mm insert ($10 value) Looking for $77.50 shipped within the US, shoot me a PM if interested Thanks! - Goopyby goopyplastic - For Sale
@Sublime >What program are you designing in? I am using Solidworks, overkill for sure. Thank goodness for edu licenses. >If you have access to a lathe it would be nice to center drill the rods so the motor shafts fit in them which would allow you to move the motors in and eliminate the coupler. You would then need a way of allowing the motor to flex but that could be as easy as having Lby goopyplastic - Tantillus
Played around with the idea a little more and got away from lasercutting the parts and instead printing them like sublime recommended. (blue parts are printed parts). Uses all of the Tantillus x/y/z parts and 8mm rods. The 5/16 rods need to be cut longer though, I am just using the same length for motor and idler rods then using collars / knobs to secure the rods in place. The nice thing isby goopyplastic - Tantillus
Very cool, looking forward to seeing it running!by goopyplastic - Tantillus
So I love the Tantillus but ended up parting it out as you may have seen in for sale. I will probably build another one (or more) but have been thinking about building what I would change for my own personal one. I know reprap is filled with too many printer variations so let me know if this sounds like something that should just go in the trash. LARGER PIC This pretty much trashes a lot of whby goopyplastic - Tantillus
the allstar available on the site is blatant ultimaker copy and strictly against their policy.by goopyplastic - For Sale
I notice when I open sublimes svg's in illustrator they are about 25% oversized, but in inkscape they open to the normal scale.... almost made the same mistake with ponoko...by goopyplastic - Tantillus
I had to reprint these, so ended making some STL's that were narrower and had the mounting points for set screws if you have rod sloppage. These corners kind of solve problems that shouldn't exist, but maybe they will help someoneby goopyplastic - Tantillus
I believe the brown and red wires need to be reversed on the ramps exp1 connector. You have brown (ground on the lcd) plugged into + on the ramps shield.by goopyplastic - Tantillus
I am selling my Tantillus 3D Printer, I have broken down the complete printer and am selling everything except the Arduino / Ramps and J-Head so you will need to purchase those on your own from somewhere else. It is easier to explain in a video what the kit includes and some of the issues / problems you will run into. I have discounted the price because this is a used kit and has some blemishesby goopyplastic - For Sale
I believe acrylic will have more kerf though, I know the pieces I got (not from sublime) have more gap than I would have liked. Nice snug cnc'ed plywood with glued tabs would be nice you could probably use bearing caps like the ultimaker and not have to use corner pieces.by goopyplastic - Tantillus
Some people have used MDF / melamine and it works fine. One issue would be proper thickness, melamine is generally over 6mm so you would need to adjust the corner pieces to fit properly. 6mm ply would work great and probably be stronger than the acrylic, although not necessarily as cool looking as clear acrylic made his from 6.5mm MDF and modified the corner pieces to fit that size.by goopyplastic - Tantillus