Is it possible that something happened to your power supply and the motors are not getting enough power? Can you try a different power supply and check that the power cables have good connection?by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
Cubehero looks really promising, in fact it's the best I've seen in thingiverse-alternative attempts. If they add the social stuff like comments and likes and an easy way to upload, it could have potential. However I also agree with Traumflug's comments that github's strongest point is the collaboration aspect, and the big hurdle is ease of use. I'm not suggesting that git is hard, I use it forby lajos - General
You should be able to set your firmware use absolute E even if by default it expects relative E: M82 - Set E codes absolute (default) M83 - Set E codes relative while in Absolute Coordinates (G90) mode So if you have an absolute E gcode, just put M82 in the header. In fact I'd suggest adding M82 or M83 to all gcode files to make sure the E values are evaluated correctly by the firmware.by lajos - Developers
Look at the sanguino troubleshooting section on the wiki. Possible solutions: - install the correct ftdi driver so your sanguino shows up in the device manager as a COM port - make sure you have the correct COM port selected in the arduino ide - install auto-reset jumperby lajos - Reprappers
I'm not trying to discourage you, just keeping it real ; ) There is support for reading thermistors in sailfish, but not for extruders. It's not just modifying a config file, but adding new functionality. And as I mentioned you will also need to modify the voltage divider. For someone who has access to the hardware and is familiar with avr programming, modifying the firmware and testing would bby lajos - General
If you use the heatbed thermistor input for the extruder, how will you control the heatbed? But the bigger issue is that sailfish doesn't support thermistors for the hotend. It's not a question of reconfiguring the pins, it's forking sailfish and rewriting the ExtruderBoard class. You will also need to modify the voltage divider, the 100k resistor works for the heatbed temp range, but you needby lajos - General
You can download the schematics for the mightyboard from thingiverse. Look at the section on the schematic labelled "thermocouple". (attached) Thermistors and thermocouples are completely different devices (thermistor changes its resistance, thermocouple changes its voltage), they are not at all compatible. As suggested above, you would need to make a thermistor to digital converter, replacingby lajos - General
@fabster: I clicked on a couple objects on fabster.com. None of them had a "download" button. All I see is "website", that takes me to shapeways and asks for $30. The objects are called products, and show availability. Why would an object in a free repository of objects would do that? Attached is a screenshot. Maybe you can show me what I'm missing. You say you are not part of a 3d printer comby lajos - General
I have about a dozen spares. If you can't find any, PM me, I can stick one in an envelope and snail mail it to you.by lajos - Tantillus
@Dark Alchemist: Only time will tell if any of these sites will gain traction and attract a critical mass of users, but in my opinion they are not the right approach. Accept or hate thingiverse, they did a lot of things right: 1. a standalone site with the sole purpose of a public repository where users can share their stuff 2. it's free to upload, free to download 3. some basic social featuresby lajos - General
I'm sorry, I don't see how fabster.com is a replacement or alternative to thingiverse in any shape or form. Thingiverse is a repository of (mostly) 3d printable objects. Anyone can share their designs for others to download for _free_, so users can make the same thing. Source files are included. Think github. Fabster.com is a store and links to other stores where people buy things. Source fileby lajos - General
My j-head from hotends.com came with this resistor. Digikey part# 696-1087-ND, manufacturer part# UB5C-5R6F1. This resistor is 5.6 ohm 5 watt.by lajos - Tantillus
You need Arduino 1.x. Make sure you install the sanguino 1.x patch from here. You also need the LiquidTWI2 library, as described in Configuration.h. If after this you still have compile errors, post it here. If you can compile, but can't upload because verification fails, you have the wrong bootloader on the Sanguino. There are threads on how to fix that in this forum.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
Yes, you have to replace the firmware on your sanguino. There is an upload button in the arduino ide tool bar (arrow pointing right), that sends the new firmware to the board.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
While I don't have that i2c breakout board, I don't see why it would not work. There is a configuration option for LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23008, the i2c breakout chip in the Adafruit backpack. You'll have to make sure that the i2c address (LCD_I2C_ADDRESS) is set correctly.by lajos - Tantillus
It's hard to tell from the photos, did you have the stepper driver installed when the arcing happened? Or was it also burning without the stepper driver?by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
I'm using the latest arduino 1.05 for compiling marlin. Actually I believe 1.x+ is required for the latest marlin (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong ). I don't have the same lcd, but looks like all you need is uncomment this line in Configuration.h: //#define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2 so it looks like this: #define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
As you said there are different endstops. Some are NO, some are NC, and some have both NO and NC pins. So it makes sense to have both options. As long as you wire it correctly and the setting is right in the firmware, either way works. My endstop is wired normally open.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
I've built a Tantillus and its print quality is superb. There is a section for it on this forum, you'll find a lot of impressive prints there. Don't miss this thread. In the past month since I finished my build I've used it a lot and hasn't required any adjustment or calibration. Probably the most important variable for great print quality is acceleration. The higher the acceleration, the nicerby lajos - General
That's a very nice build. I really like the aesthetics of teeth and gears and timing belts, but one of the main reasons I went with the Tantillus was the cables. I looked at hundreds (probably thousands) of prints online and it looked like belt driven printers produced a ringing artifact at sharp corners. I did not see that artifact on acme screw and cable drive setups. My cnc uses leadscrewsby lajos - Tantillus
Attached is a photo of the +5v line cut on my board. Flip your board over, find the pads for the USB connector (4 pads in a rectangle layout above USB2TTL label). You need to cut the track going to the top left pad. I used the knife from my swiss army. It's actually more like scratching with the tip than cutting.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
I'm with nophead. Don't use grease. It collects dust and once enough dust gets on, it turns into hard-to-remove gunk. Occasional wipe with some car engine oil works great.by lajos - Reprappers
Even if someone gave you a number, you'd have to check it. So why not just calibrate it? Put a mark on the filament at 100mm from a point you can measure. Extrude 100mm of filament. Measure how much filament went through the extruder, then adjust steps per unit: calibrated_steps_per_unit = steps_per_unit * 100 / how_much_filament_got_through Repeat until 100mm filament is extruded.by lajos - Reprappers
> Is it a second Tantillus? Once you go cable drive you never go back, right? The project came about while looking for an excuse to learn openscad. So based on the Tantillus, I started working on a parametric dual extruder cable drive setup. It's still in planning stages, as soon as I have something physical, I'll post about it. > max acceleration at 9000 and the X/Y jerk at 20 Soundby lajos - Tantillus
Some ISP programmers can't handle 128k chips like the atmega1284p.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
You only need to cut one trace, the 5v supply at the usb connector. I'll take a picture and post it, if I dont forget This information should really be on the wiki.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
> But by all means crank it up as high as you like. I'm working on a second printer, as soon as that's up and running as a backup, I'll do some speed tests > dial gauge or digital calipers attached to the carriage and measure from the case wall to ensure you are getting the correct movement lengths Makes total sense. This is why I like coming to the Tantillus forum (or reading your poby lajos - Tantillus
> For the fans what CFM are you using? I'm using fans from this HDD cooler. (Buying the HDD cooler with two fans was much cheaper than buying two fans.) The description claims 9.43 CFM. When printing under 0.1mm layer height the extra cooling (and KS prime cylinder) helped, not sure if it has any effect on larger layer height, just left it there because I forgot. I never had an issue with thby lajos - Tantillus
What a great idea pushing the two hotends closer using the gap between the bearings. I've been thinking about a carriage with two hotends also, using a mounting plate at the bottom for easier access to the hotend. But I was planning to keep the carriage itself two pieces so the holes for the X and Y bearing could be printed on the Z axis, similar to how the original carriage is oriented for prinby lajos - Tantillus
Drastic as it sounds, I would just cut the +5V trace on the board. There is absolutely no reason for the sanguino to be powering to usb line. Cutting the trace takes 2 seconds with a pocket knife and costs nothing. Once cut, never have to worry about frying a usb port, blowing the 7805 or forgetting the adapter.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)