Show all posts by user
http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Tantillus
Re: Printed Case Tantillus - 13 years ago
> with the number of projects that I currently have on the go I know what you mean ; ) I'm also working on a larger printer, but life keeps slowing things down. Are you moving the rods on the z axis further apart to compensate for the wider print area?by lajos - Tantillus
Re: BOM with suppliers - 13 years ago
I have this encoder from digikey: 987-1192-ND. It works with the knob that Sublime made. Digikey shipping is $1.35 (at least that's what I pay in MA, I assume you are in th US because you have stuff from bolt depot). 4 1/4" size bolt for the extruder is hard to find and very expensive. For me the 4" was too short (see post here). So yes, for the hobbed bolt, if you are making your own, you'll neby lajos - Tantillus
Re: User settings - 13 years ago
I'm using the Tantillus KS profiles, with some small changes. I have a .4 nozzle, so I used the Tantillus calculator to make the .4 styles. I print at the temperatures from the calculator (wish the temperature setting would be somehow linked to styles/speed, or at least visible all the time). I print with absolute E, this is to keep my sanity as my CNC also takes absolute position gcode. (BTW:by lajos - Tantillus
Re: BOM with suppliers - 13 years ago
You can get stepper motors cheaper in the US. The last motors I got from here, order shipped same day, received in a couple days. (When I bought the motors they were on sale for under $10, but $12 is not bad either.) The motors run cool and they are super quiet. You listed 10 encoders, you only need one. I built the cable version of the Z axis, which works great. In that case you don't need theby lajos - Tantillus
Re: New RepStrap in the family - 13 years ago
Great work! What happened to the hotend you made?by lajos - Reprappers
Re: Verification failure after upload? - 13 years ago
The error means that you have the wrong bootloader. The firmware is not actually uploading (hence the error). You need to burn the correct bootloader onto the atmega using the ISP port.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: Microstepping jumper settings - 13 years ago
You don't need to remove the solder. You just heat it up and let it flow under the feet and by dragging your soldering iron, over to the other feet. There doesn't seem to be a lot of extra solder there, so this should work. Should it not get rid of the bridge, use a piece of solder wick to suck some of the solder off the feet. Then drag across the feet to reflow. Most likely your supplier burneby lajos - General
Re: Microstepping jumper settings - 13 years ago
Yes, that's not good. You should not have a bridge there. Or in fact anywhere. It can be causing the short. On your board the ftdi chip is also not perfectly aligned, although it's probably close enough to work. The bridge is very easy to fix. Preheat your soldering iron (I use a standard 2mm screwdriver type tip for most smt soldering) and drag the tip over the pins. Here's a good demonstratioby lajos - General
Re: Intricate print with support - 13 years ago
I was printing something with an antler or horns, and within a single layer the printer would do some outlines, some infill, some support, back to outlines, infill, support etc... It seemed to me that printing all the outlines/infill first, then all the support would've worked better, even if it be extra time. In addition there were lots of skinny toothpick-like supports that went several cm higby lajos - Tantillus
Re: Microstepping jumper settings - 13 years ago
That is a power led. It should be on, no blinking, no dimming. That board has no activity indicator leds. If the led comes on then dims, my guess would be bad solder joint on the lm7805, on the caps around it, or a bad power supply. Make sure you are not powering the board with much more than 12v. No need to replace the resonator. It works well. We don't need atomic clock precision ; ) If you reby lajos - General
Re: Sanguinololu 1.3a 1284p - no power at heatbed. - 13 years ago
Thermistor pin: TEMP_BED_PIN 6 Heater pin: HEATER_BED_PIN 12 Things to check: - make sure the temperature is reported correctly (should be same as hotend at room temp) - make sure the gate pin is set to high on your mosfet when the heatbed is supposed to be on (if gate is high and 0v on heat bed output, maybe you have a blown mosfet; if gate is not high, then most likely theby lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: Intricate print with support - 13 years ago
Wow. That looks absolutely amazing. I also printed something with tall support recently and ran into some unstable KS supports. I wish KS would print all the support in one go after finishing outline and infill, with an option to disable retracts between support columns.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: Can Sanguinololu 1.3A control 12V 200W heated bed ? - 13 years ago
> They changed the MOSFET to SMT versions capable of 76A drain current. This means nothing. The issue is not how much current can the mosfet handle, but rather how much heat it dissipates doing that. You need a mosfet with a very low Rdson. But more than heat dissipation on the mosfet, I'd be concerned with the traces on the sanguino. You can easily find a mosfet with <=2mOhm Rdson that cby lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: Sanguinololu 1.3a 1284p - no power at heatbed. - 13 years ago
You gave us very little information. It's hard to even guess what's going on. But most likely you have something misconfigured in the firmware (pin layout, thermistor type) or some wiring issue.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: Variant of Goopyplastic's Tantillus Variant - 13 years ago
I have oilite bearings on my tantillus, they work great. No noise, smooth, cheap and self lubricating. I'd probably start with the 8mm rods for the crossbar. The larger diameter rod would add extra mass and the 8mm rods are pretty stiff at 400mm length. If anything I would make the side rods thicker to lower the number of cable loops required. To allow for the extra cable, you'll probably have tby lajos - Tantillus
Re: information about funduino - 13 years ago
I've been down the route of converting my CNC machine to do 3d printing. It was a fun project, but in the end I ended up using it for just repstrapping a Tantillus. I used LinuxCNC and made a simple board for controlling the extruder temperature. You don't need anything fancy, a small arduino board, a mosfet and a couple resistors. There's some info on the wiki, although if you are only repstrapby lajos - General
Re: Anyone wanna print parts for me? - 13 years ago
That is a pretty low price. Usually that kit will sell for well over $200 in the US. You can make all that for $45, but I've never seen anyone sell it for that low. Although manufactured in volume, that's what it should be. A good deal in the US for electronics is sanguinololu kit for $40-50, stepper drivers for under $10, nema17s for under $10, 16x2 lcd (without i2c) ~$5, sdramps under $10, encby lajos - Tantillus
Re: Anyone wanna print parts for me? - 13 years ago
I don't have any experience with online pcb manufacturing. If you don't have the means to etch pcbs, probably your best bet would be to find a kit version of the electronics (in the US you can buy unassembled Sanguino for example). The only tricky thing for assembly are the stepped drivers where the chip has a pad on the bottom that has to be soldered to the board. For printing the parts, I thinby lajos - Tantillus
Re: My Tantillus Printing! - 13 years ago
If you want to use sd and lcd, you need the 1284p. It won't fit into the 644p. It's only a couple $ for the 1284p, it should be a simple and worthy update. Printing from sd is really nice because you don't have to rely on the flaky ftdi serial over usb connection. It would be beneficial even in a network setup.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: My Tantillus Printing! - 13 years ago
Congrats on your build! I'm using an azteeg x1, which is basically a sanguinololu board and have SD, LCD and encoder working. The sanguinololu doesn't have lots of extra ports, so I hooked up the LCD via i2c that only uses two wires for communication. The board (github) is pretty simple, costs $3 in parts and you can etch it on a single layer copper clad. The driver chip is also available in DIPby lajos - Tantillus
Re: Anyone wanna print parts for me? - 13 years ago
Where are you located? I've built my Tantillus for a tad over $300, so your budget should be doable. I kept costs down by using cheaper fasteners (phillips or flat head vs hex), making much of the electronics and cutting the frame panels myself.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: where is the Marlin.cpp.hex ? - 13 years ago
Arduino BuildProcess: The .hex file is the final output of the compilation which is then uploaded to the board. During a "Verify" the .hex file is written to /tmp (on Mac and Linux) or \Documents and Settings\\Local Settings\Temp (on Windows). During upload, it's written to the applet sub-directory of the sketch directory (which you can open with the "Show Sketch Folder" item in the Sketch menu)by lajos - General
Re: where is the Marlin.cpp.hex ? - 13 years ago
In arduino preferences turn on show verbose messages during compilation. You'll see all the paths in the console window when you recompile.by lajos - General
Re: Microstepping jumper settings - 13 years ago
The FTDI chip is just providing a serial port over USB. You are not really talking to the FTDI chip, but rather to the atmega through that chip. What LED are you referring to? The power LED? Can you post a picture of your board? One more thing you could try before replacing the bootloader (which you'll probably want to do in the end anyway). Most likely what's happening is that you have an oldby lajos - General
Re: Microstepping jumper settings - 13 years ago
Oh, sorry, yes, I meant attach the verbose output as a text file to your post here. I've had bad experiences with suppliers in the US as well. When I bought my first Sanguino board, the seller, who's actually listed on the Sanguino reprap wiki page, sent me an email confirmation that my order has shipped. Never received it. Sent emails, left phone messages, nothing happened until I filed a complby lajos - General
Re: Microstepping jumper settings - 13 years ago
I don't get any verification errors on upload, although my board is a bit different than yours. I know there was a hardware bug with the mcu not resetting before upload, but I don't know if that would cause a mismatch. You sure you have the correct value for MOTHERBOARD (62), and the arduino ide shows Sanguino W/ATmega1284p 16mhz on COM{something}? Anyway, if you find that the firmware is notby lajos - General
Re: Microstepping jumper settings - 13 years ago
Hopefully that was just a glitch. You should upload again. Or do you get that same error every time you upload? You might want to try a different USB cable, too. There is a checkbox in arduino preferences: show verbose output during upload. If the error keeps happening, can you post the output of upload with verbose enabled?by lajos - General
Re: Microstepping jumper settings - 13 years ago
The wiki can be confusing, there are lots of possible hw/sw combinations and some info is out of date. Whoever put the marlin firmware on your atmega1284p already burned the bootloader and the fuses should be set, so you don't need to worry about any of that stuff. All you need is configure marlin and then upload it to your board. Software you need: - Arduino IDE - - get the latest versioby lajos - General
Re: The Disappointments and Failures of TrinityLabs Aluminatus - 13 years ago
Ouch. Make that a double ouch. I didn't realize you paid so much for shipping/customs. Just that would've bought you a really nice printer. Can you negotiate with TL to refund those costs? If that's not possible, is there no way for you to fix some of the issues just so you have a working printer while you get parts from TL? Your videos show the printer moving, so maybe you could use a differentby lajos - General