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http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Tantillus
Re: The Disappointments and Failures of TrinityLabs Aluminatus - 13 years ago
I still only have one question for you: Why did you not ship the printer back? TL offered, in writing, in public to refund your purchase. That should be a perfectly satisfactory resolution of this saga for both parties.by lajos - General
Re: Resonator 16.00MHZ vs Crystals 16MHz - 13 years ago
Your resonator should work fine. Look at the atmega1284P datasheet page 32/33 for more info. You don't need to make any modification to your Sanguino nor the firmware.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: Help with LCD and Encoder - 13 years ago
You need ground on the LCD's pin 16 for the backlight. Are you sure about potentiometer pins? maybe it's not the common layout where the divider pin is in the middle? That could also be causing the short. I would hook up the LCD to a 5V power supply, make sure that it lights up before potentially blowing a power regulator (or the microcontroller if you power it from a pin) on the arduino.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: updated marlin firmware - 13 years ago
> printing on a PVA glue mixture Is that the same thing mentioned in this video? Can you point me to some info on how to coat the glass? > it that had a calibration menu I've added a calibration/extruder menu with these items: - adjust E axis steps/unit - extrude 100mm - retract 100mm - load halfway - unload halfway Not sure if it's the same you had, but I've recalibrated theby lajos - Tantillus
Re: updated marlin firmware - 13 years ago
Changed these: - if heatbed present, heatbed temperature is printed on first line on 16x2 lcd instead of z position (also there's no degree sign then, as it doesn't fit) - cold extrude allowed on easy load I didn't know you could add a heat bed to the Tantillus. Does that make a difference with PLA? Although I don't have any issues printing onto glass/painters tape. Would it make sense to trigby lajos - Tantillus
updated marlin firmware - 13 years ago
I've added the Tantillus features to the latest Marlin firmware. The main motivation was to hook up an i2c lcd controller, but once I had that I wanted all the goodies that Sublime added to the official firmware ; ) (Using the i2c lcd, there are plenty pins left over to hook up the encoder and an led driver to the Sanguinololu/Azteeg X1.) I've also added some extras to the 16x2 lcd, see images bby lajos - Tantillus
Re: First print doesnt look good. Whats next? - 13 years ago
Based on the gadgets3d website: Thermistor temperature reading: EPCOS 100k For that you can use "1" for TEMP_SENSOR_0 in the marlin Configuration.h. (Assuming you have not modified your controller board and you have 4.7k resistor in your voltage divider.) To calibrate your E axis, remove your hotend, put a mark at 100mm on your filament and extrude 100mm in your host software. If the length ofby lajos - General
Re: Microstepping jumper settings - 13 years ago
My advice: stop. You have to configure the firmware. If not, you will break or fry something. I doubt that microstepping is causing your erratic movements. My guess is that you have the current set incorrectly for the steppers. Read this section. If the current is too low, the steppers won't have enough power to move the axis. If it's too high, you will fry your motors as in you'll have to buby lajos - General
Re: First print doesnt look good. Whats next? - 13 years ago
> he hotend keeps blocking the filament. Are you sure that your thermistor is set up correctly? Just because you see 200C in your host software, it doesn't actually mean that's the temperature of the hotend unless you have the correct settings in your firmware. Do you have an infrared thermometer to check the actual hotend temperature? Did you calibrate your extruder? If your layers are notby lajos - General
Re: Microstepping jumper settings - 13 years ago
You can set different microstepping on all axis. You also have to set the correct current to your motors. See this page on the wiki. You _must_ configure your firmware, unless someone already set up and calibrated the printer for you (unlikely since you are playing with microstepping). Look at the configuration section on the wiki. That's where you set up how many steps your motors take per unitby lajos - General
Re: Microstepping jumper settings - 13 years ago
Microstepping settings are per stepper driver, jumper settings for X do not affect Y. What stepper drivers are you using? Once you know that, you can look up the jumper settings. Then make sure you adjust the firmware accordingly. Not familiar with the i3, but I assume 1/16 microstepping should work well. If your USB connection keeps dropping out, you should try a different USB cable and/or lowby lajos - General
Re: MakiBox $200 Complete 3D Printer 
- 13 years ago
> I think you are mistaking margin for markup. You are right, I've used the wrong word. I meant that they will use the 30-40% difference between their manufacturing cost and sale price to pay for electricity, rent, wages etc. They will not make Apple style profit (like the $25 sdramps dudes), nor do I think that's their goal. And this is the biggest reason why I'm hoping they, and companies lby lajos - General
Re: MakiBox $200 Complete 3D Printer - 13 years ago
> None of those parts can be sourced in single (or even small quantities) for the price posted. I'll take a simple one from above, the sdramp board, from digikey, single quantity: - 3.3v voltage regulator $0.40 - micro sd socket $2.20 - 74HC4050 level shifter $0.46 - led, resistors, capacitor: $1.20 That's $4.26, shipping $1.35. Let's say you don't want to point-to-point it, etch a copper cby lajos - General
Re: Stratasys and Makerbot to Merge - 13 years ago
Whatever happens to MBI will have zero affect on reprap. They have a completely different customer base. If stratasys buys them, they'll have access to a cache of patents, but I doubt that stratasys would be getting into the $200 3d printer business with this move. They could even just close MBI down to protect their super expensive printer business. Yes, all the MBI owners/managers will get a hby lajos - General
Re: Making the case for the RepRap Industrial Revolution. - 13 years ago
"Also using a netbook is not going to do you any favors. Use a Mac book air, or pro. Use a Mac so it will do what you ask it too and compile in a reasonable time. Microsoft products don't work well in time crunch situations when you really need things to work flawlessly. " Now that is just complete misinformation. You took a shovel to dig a pool, and you are complaining that it was taking too loby lajos - General
Re: repetier firmware - 13 years ago
Ok, I'll try to add your changes to the latest marlin. I assume most tantillus users have the LCD wired directly, so adding the i2c stuff to marlin-tantillus is probably not the way to go. I see your point about the firmware changing fast and with insufficient testing. Add to that all the #defines and #ifdef, with zero help for those from the arduino IDE, and you got insane craziness. I wish theby lajos - Tantillus
Re: repetier firmware - 13 years ago
I made an i2c controller for my 1602 lcd using a PCF8574A, it's working with the latest marlin. In marlin-tantillus, it looks like there is no i2c lcd support. What do you suggest: merging the latest marlin into marlin-tantillus, or just adding i2c lcd support to the current marlin-tantillus? Probably neither route is small feat, but I was wondering if you think there are features in the latestby lajos - Tantillus
Re: MakiBox $200 Complete 3D Printer - 13 years ago
I hope they succeed. While I'm not one of the people waiting for their makibox, I do every once in a while check their blog to see where they are at. It seems they have honest intentions. Delivering a couple thousand printers is no small feat, they underestimated, just like 99% of the projects on kickstarter. I looked at the prints, they do not look bad. Especially from a $200 printer. In factby lajos - General
Re: Tantillus Calculations - 13 years ago
Thanks for the info. You obviously know a lot more than I do. Really appreciate you sharing it.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: repetier firmware - 13 years ago
It wasn't the marlin-tantillus firmware. I uploaded the latest marlin from github, same issue. Then I dug up a different sdcard, and it's all working as expected.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: Tantillus Calculations - 13 years ago
When I use the tantillus.org calculator from here and change only these fields: layer height: 0.25mm nozzle: 0.4mm The calculator gives me PLA temperature of 214C. Is that correct? Do you really print PLA that hot?by lajos - Tantillus
Re: repetier firmware - 13 years ago
Hmmm... Maybe I should do some more investigation with the pin layout then. I thought I checked everything, but when I transfer stuff on the computer and stick it in the sdramps board, it definitely doesn't see any folders, and maybe sees one or two files of the 20+ there is on it. I tried transferring a file over through the azteeg x1, but as you said it was painfully slow. What's funny is thatby lajos - Tantillus
Re: repetier firmware - 13 years ago
I just found the eeprom settings in marlin-tantillus last night And you are right, it can make debugging tricky, so it's a good idea to keep it disabled in the beginning. One issue I'm having with marlin is with the sdcard. When I transfer files to the card on my pc, stick it in sdramps, they don't show up in marlin. The card is formatted FAT and the file names are 8.3. But with repertier thereby lajos - Tantillus
Re: Heated bed hot mosfet - 13 years ago
You need something with a much lower Rds On. Even at 0.02 ohm, which is not much different than what you got, you'll need some pretty beefy heat sinking. Here's one from digikey. The part number is IRLB8743PBF. Rds ON is 0.0032 ohm, which is almost a magnitude smaller than what you have now. The one I listed runs at pretty much ambient temperature with MK2 heatbed, no heat sink. But then you canby lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
repetier firmware - 13 years ago
Before I could get the official marlin-tantillus firmware to work, I used the repetier firmware with repetier host. But I got hooked on repetier host, and the firmware has some really nice features like eeprom saving of settings and binary communication. So I went back to the repetier firmware, but I had to do some modifications to get the fan working properly for example. The fork is on githubby lajos - Tantillus
Re: Sanguinololu 1.3 Heating issue - 13 years ago
If the MOSFET is overheating, you can replace it with one that has lower Rds On. The IRLB8743PBF from digikey can even drive a pcb heat bed without heat sink.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: Help with sanguinololu electronics - 13 years ago
Windows7 should automatically install the drivers for the FTDI chip. If not, get them here. If it's recognized, you should see a COM port (eg COM3) in the device manager under ports. Make sure the RESET jumper is on for programming. See the wiki page for more info.by lajos - Sanguino(lolu)
Re: My Tantillus Variant - 13 years ago
The build looks great with the aluminum extrusions. How did you get everything square? With the laser cut case and corners things just square up automatically, but I assume with the extrusions there is some play with the mounting hardware.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) 
[Lots of pictures] - 13 years ago
Maybe you could wrap the heater block with a couple layers of kapton tape for insulation like this j-head. I think it would be worth a try.by lajos - General
Re: first jam - 13 years ago
Actually the issue wasn't leftover plastic in the cable. I started getting the same sticking with the blue filament, too, so I took the bowden cable out for cleaning, found no issues. Then I set the printing temperature higher to 200F and now everything is nice and smooth. Another day, another lesson learned...by lajos - Tantillus