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http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Tantillus
start blob - 13 years ago
I finally got my tantillus running. I'm using the tantillus kisslicer profiles with repetier on an azteeg x1 (couldn't get the tantillus marlin fw to compile). When printing starts, the hotend heats up in the corner and starts drooling some plastic. Then it moves to the middle of the table, homes the z axis while still drooling some plastic. This leaves a blob in the middle of the table. Thenby lajos - Tantillus
Re: Rods and Holes - 13 years ago
Forgot to suggest to mark the hole on the rod with a center punch. That helps start the drill, otherwise if you use the drill press the drill bit most likely will slip, bend and possibly break. With the drill press you don't need the whole guide from above, just the bottom half to help stabilize the rod. Also, use some drilling or thread cutting lubricant. It will keep things nice and cool. Witby lajos - Tantillus
Re: Rods and Holes - 13 years ago
You could make a guide like this to help drilling the rods: I've used also these to help cutting the rods (hence they are dirty ; ). It's basically a piece of wood with a 5/16" hole drilled through, then cut in half. Then a 1/16" hole is drilled in the middle. Place the rod in the guide, clamp it and drill the small hole through the 1/16" hole. Or maybe you could go to a car mechanic or someby lajos - Tantillus
Re: My Tantillus Variant - 13 years ago
It's looking great. And I really envy those corners after I snapped (as in snapped into pieces) four or five of the ones I printed for my build.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: Prusa Nozzle Released - 13 years ago
"That's not at all what he said. ... The point, which you've missed in your responses is that for some the time and effort to build a hot end like this (or even an entire printer) isn't worth it." No, this is exactly what he said: "i gotta ask though why on earth would you try and make it? why not just buy one" There are several reasons one might want to build this. To make. We are makers. Toby lajos - General
Re: exporting laser cut stls - 13 years ago
Oh, ok, I think I know what's going on now. You are exporting the panels as they are, and then using openscad to flatten them.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: Prusa Nozzle Released - 13 years ago
Well, if I just go and buy it, that would make me stop making one on my own. And if I don't make the hotend, but buy it, why would I stop stopping there, and not just go buy a replicator2? I find the most valuable feature of the whole reprap movement is people making their own stuff. The self replicating printer. Going up against "the machine", and printing the broken piece in the car door openby lajos - General
Re: exporting laser cut stls - 13 years ago
Thanks for the info. You are right, it's easiest to do it in inkscape. The step I couldn't figure out was actually how you exported the stls from blender. Although with inkscape I don't need new stls.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: Prusa Nozzle Released - 13 years ago
"i gotta ask though why on earth would you try and make it? why not just buy one" So what you're saying, is stop what I'm doing and just run buy a Replicator2? Because the smart people have already figured it all out for me, and I'm incapable of making stuff on my own anyway? And in fifty years we'll all be chicks?by lajos - General
exporting laser cut stls - 13 years ago
I need to change the laser cut frame a bit because I don't have access to 6mm stock. This is probably a stupid question, but how do I reexport the stl files from blender? I assume they came from this layer, but I can't figure out how to export the edges only.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: My Tantillus Variant - 13 years ago
Your build is looking fantastic. What's the purpose of the gears at the ends of the xy shafts? Is that how you keep those rods from moving?by lajos - Tantillus
Re: Prusa Nozzle Released - 13 years ago
akhlut Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes, 280 is hot. I started a print overnight at > that temp. It held up about a quarter of the way > through before stripping the filament. You are much braver than I am. I don't think I could sleep next to a brand new hotend running at 280C. Or at least have nightmares of the heater screw working itself loose anby lajos - General
Re: 4" bolt too short for extruder? - 13 years ago
I can't find any 4 1/4" bolts (unless if I buy 100 pcs), but got some 4 1/2" at the hw store. Little long but I'll shim it with some washers. Will be easier to hob further from the head, too, so it might actually be a good replacement.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: Need Parts for My 1st Printer - 13 years ago
Congrats for your baby! Being a dad is the best thing in life. Ever. (Even if we get less play time.)by lajos - Tantillus
Re: 4" bolt too short for extruder? - 13 years ago
The bolt is 4" from the bottom of the head (with the head it's 4 5/32"). I don't have any washers and the bearings sit well in their sockets. I'll check the measurement of the printed part against the stl, but it was made on a calibrated cnc, so I would be surprised if the height would be wrong.by lajos - Tantillus
4" bolt too short for extruder? - 13 years ago
The 4" 5/16 bolt I got for the extruder seems short. Did I print the wrong extruder body or gear?by lajos - Tantillus
printed bushings for carriage - 13 years ago
Is it possible to use printed bushings for the carriage instead of the LM8uu's? Thanks- -lajosby lajos - Tantillus
Re: Alternative electronics - 13 years ago
Thanks for the note on the USB supply trace. Soon I should be done with printing the plastic parts, so next up will be the electronics.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: The 3D printed gun - 13 years ago
From the dailymail article: "Our reporters hid the gun in three parts in their clothing (but without the easily concealed firing pin and bullet, for safety reasons)." Doesn't seem lethal without the pin and without bullets. BTW easily concealed bullets? Who made that up?by lajos - General
Re: Alternative electronics - 13 years ago
Perfect, thanks. I did read somewhere that the 1284 is required for the LCD, so that's what I'm using.by lajos - Tantillus
Re: Alternative electronics - 13 years ago
I'm making a Sanguinololu for my Tantillus. I've seen builds that use it, so hopefully it will work. Electronics is highway robbery. And I'm not sure why. Even on ebay a ramps 1.4 kit is upwards of $150, which excluding the arduino doesn't cost more than $20 if manufactured in quantity. I've built an extruder controller for my CNC to do 3d printing. With LCD it cost me about $10 in parts (attinby lajos - Tantillus
Re: Shorter hobbed bolt - 13 years ago
Thanks for the insight. I had a suspicion that there was a reason for the long bolt.by lajos - Tantillus
Shorter hobbed bolt - 13 years ago
On my first attempt to print the extruder the printer ran out of filament at about 95% through. I obviously need to print a new one, but I was wondering if I could use a shorter hobbed bolt. I have the equipment to make the bolt. Is there a design reason for such a long bolt, or would a shorter one work with a modified extruder body?by lajos - Tantillus
Re: Tantillus parts with bridges - 13 years ago
Thanks! I'll keep going with support off. I did see some issues with triangles in KS, but as you said the bumps are very easy to remove.by lajos - Tantillus
Tantillus parts with bridges - 13 years ago
I'm getting to printing some of the larger parts for my Tantillus that seem to have surfaces that require bridging, for example the extruder housing and the Z upper bracket. Should I slice these with support turned on in KISSlicer, or does 100% infill create those bridges? Thanks- -lajosby lajos - Tantillus
Re: printing Tantillus on a slow printer - 13 years ago
Thanks so much! I've based my settings on the Tantillus profiles, but I had 3 loops like you have for the 0.35 nozzle. I'm now printing a top brace with two loops and a bit larger extrusion width, it looks like the brace will be done in a little over 2 hours. That helps. Still, it will take some time...by lajos - Tantillus
Re: printing Tantillus on a slow printer - 13 years ago
Thanks so much for the advice! I'm a complete novice at 3d printing, so I really appreciate all the help. When you print the parts on the Tantillus, I assume you use a JHead with 0.4mm nozzle. What layer height and extrusion width do you use?by lajos - Tantillus
printing Tantillus on a slow printer - 13 years ago
Hi- First of all thanks to Sublime for designing and sharing the Tantillus. I can't wait to get mine. I made an extruder, hotend and some electronics to enable my CNC machine for 3d printing. I'm getting really nice prints, but since it's a CNC machine that pushes a heavy table and z axis around, I can't print very fast. I'm currently printing parts for a Tantillus with 10mm/sec perimeter, andby lajos - Tantillus