Quotenewbob Quoteswoozle Quotenebbian Quoteswoozle Conclusion: you can play with layer heights but the real fix is to add the diode mod or change the decay mode (if you can). That's excellent data, swoozle! Really nice before and after pictures. It's great to have another way of removing moire. Did you use four normal 1N4007 diodes on the lines that needed it, or did you use a TLSmoother onby swoozle - Delta Machines
Quotenebbian Quoteswoozle Conclusion: you can play with layer heights but the real fix is to add the diode mod or change the decay mode (if you can). That's excellent data, swoozle! Really nice before and after pictures. It's great to have another way of removing moire. Did you use four normal 1N4007 diodes on the lines that needed it, or did you use a TLSmoother on it? I think the TLSmoothby swoozle - Delta Machines
Quoteleadinglights Quoteswoozle BIG thanks to all you folks that did this work! I just added a Moriquendi board and 3 piezos to my bed mounts and it works fantastically. Over the years I have tried microswitches, FSRs, proximity and IR detectors. This is by far the easiest, cheapest, least invasive and most accurate that I have used. Which also makes me wonder: why the emphasis on incorporatingby swoozle - General
BIG thanks to all you folks that did this work! I just added a Moriquendi board and 3 piezos to my bed mounts and it works fantastically. Over the years I have tried microswitches, FSRs, proximity and IR detectors. This is by far the easiest, cheapest, least invasive and most accurate that I have used. Which also makes me wonder: why the emphasis on incorporating it into the hot end? The bed moby swoozle - General
This prompted me to revisit this topic with my machine (nothing new here, just a repeat of the OP's experience). I have an Azteeg X5 V1.0 with 16 tooth pulleys. I have not been able to find how to mod the steppers on a V1.0 as described above but a few months ago I added the diode mod and reduced the surface moire patterns tremendously. More recently I changed from 1.8 to 0.9 degree steppers anby swoozle - Delta Machines
No worries, this is great info and I am going to pursue the piezo solution as well.by swoozle - Delta Machines
And now I'm realizing that the sanding I did on the lower surface prior to painting it is also contributing. I certainly didn't pay attention to sanding direction and used 400 grit paper. BOOM That's my head explodingby swoozle - Delta Machines
Directionality of the sanding marks (parallel to IR sensor board vs perpendicular) on the surface makes the trigger height move by more than 0.1 mm. Still 600 grit. This also explains why my z offset was changing from print to print if the print footprint happened to be on the sensor probe spot. So much is explained. I am enlightened. I like your probe, but this seems to be, if not a drawback,by swoozle - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 Visible opacity is good enough. However, PEI is transparent to IR, so scratches, coatings etc, on the top surface in particular can still affect the trigger height. As you have a new piece of PEI on order, you could try sanding the top of the old piece with fine grade sandpaper to see if that helps. .... (my emphasis) ermagerd. Scratches make a HUGE difference. I went over the centeby swoozle - Delta Machines
For Mr. Crocker and others with experience using his probe on PEI, what is important to control when putting together the PEI, stove paint, adhesive assembly? Something is screwed up with my setup, I just don't know what it is. My setup is PEI painted with Rustoleum Black High Heat Primer, baked at 250F for awhile, stuck to a glass bed with 3M 468MP adhesive This particular piece of PEI has beeby swoozle - Delta Machines
Closes tomorrowby swoozle - For Sale
Auction ending todayby swoozle - For Sale
Relisted with price lowered. Get it now for only $55, free shipping Hereby swoozle - For Sale
Auction here Starts at $69, buy it now for $119 Gadgets3D RAMPS 1.4, SD RAMPS/LCD, 5 Steppers, 24V PSU, cables Complete Set Includes Arduino Mega 2560 RAMPS 1.4 5 Gadgets3D A4988 stepper motor drivers Complete SD Ramps/LCD Display 5 Steppers 24V 15A Power Supply Solid State Switch for the 24V supply Wiring Cables / end stops Cooling fan for RAMPS This was iby swoozle - For Sale
Two E3D All-Metal Hotends for Filament Extruding 3D Printers Ebay auction here Both for 3mm filament I used the one successfully for quite awhile, works great. Bought the other in case I needed the parts. Then I moved to a 1.75mm bowden delta setup so I'm selling these. Both are 12V units, 3mm, direct extrusion (NOT Bowden type) ONE New Genuine E3D V5 Hotend Kit Unused, Not Assembled Includesby swoozle - For Sale
OpenBeam 1515 Extrusions and Delrin Rollers for 3D Printers Six pieces, each 1000 mm (one meter) long These are genuine OpenBeam USA parts. I bought them for a 3D printer project but never used them. Perfect for Kossel Mini or other 3D printer types New, unused ALSO includes 9 delrin rollers for carriages with bearings Made for OpenBeam extrusions 9 rollers, 18 bearings, never used Ebay auctionby swoozle - For Sale
Full Mendelmax 1.5 3D Printer Mechanical Kit This was a working printer that has had the electronics removed, otherwise everything is there INCLUDES Misumi 2020 Extrusions Fasteners to completely assemble Printed parts (corner fittings, carriages etc.) 8 mm and 10 mm smooth rods Linear bearings to fit Heated bed Metric trapezoidal screws and delrin nuts Filament roll rack Belts and even pulleyby swoozle - For Sale
Ditto. Ethyl acetate FTW. QuoteFeign Before going to far into considering DCM for PLA smoothing, consider that this is a very old thread and that the process has been pretty much abandoned in favor of using the solvent Ethyl Acetate, which is a much much safer chemical than any that are discussed in this thread. Here's a link to the newer thread. There are reasons that it's not the best idea tby swoozle - General
Oh, great idea. Gotta try that. Purple glue stick is the best.by swoozle - General
I usually get at least a couple of dozen prints off of an application of glue stick and end up redoing it because I'm not very careful about scraping it or touching it, not because it "wears out".by swoozle - General
Ethyl acetate (also marketed as MEK substitute in the US) also works. It dissolves the PLA like acetone does for ABS and works well for re-fusing cracked faces.by swoozle - Tantillus
Slic3r is probably detecting that as a bridge and traveling at whatever your bridge settings are. I think there's a setting for turning that off (Detect as Bridge?) or you could just change the bridge settings to your normal print settings.by swoozle - Delta Machines
I agree, I would sorely miss that as well. I guess I'll stick with .95F. Quotezoltan I understood it. I will miss the previous feature. In the new version is there the possibility to include buttons like in Ponterface to assign the script?by swoozle - Repetier
It's MakerstoolWorks Quote3dfactory I created a step by step visual 3D build guide to go along with my customized kits I sell however I would like to share it with everyone in case you wish to self source. I sell Mike Paysons awesome design the Mendelmax 1.5. For anyone looking for the new Mendelmax 2.0 be sure to visit his website MakertoolWorksby swoozle - General
What are folks running for retract distance with the E3D hotend, 1.75mm bowden version? I realize this takes a bit of tweaking for each individual extruder/tube setup, but it would be useful to know a typical successful distance. Thanksby swoozle - General
I've seen a Max Wax pen suggested elsewhereby swoozle - General
Dunno about that but tall ABS prints are notoriously sensitive to temperature inconsistencies caused by even the slightest breeze (opening a door) or printing in a cool environment without something to retain a little warmth in the print area. When I needed to, I have used cardboard barriers to keep the breezes away and up the ambient temp in the print zone a little. Works very nicely.by swoozle - Printing
What do you have set as the max print speed in your firmware? That will override anything you put in slic3r.by swoozle - General
Thinner layer height with the same or larger extrusion width will help with overhang as there be less of the extrusion width unsupported for each layer. I agree with the previous responder, in general this print looks very good. Perfection with these hobbyist-grade machines is not a reaslistic expectation. A nice goal, though. Post pics and directions when you get there.by swoozle - General
I use a common washable glue stick (Elmer's?). It is purple and dries clearish. I got the idea in these forums. Do a search on glue stick here and you'll find lots of info. I usually have to reapply it every few prints but it wipes off easily with a wet paper towel and goes on quickly. If it is a particularly warp-prone part, a quick touchup between runs in the areas where the part is most probby swoozle - General