Drat.. One millimeter more and it would be interchangeable with the Ultimaker :-) Thanks MadMikeby wingnut - Tantillus
I'd like to try an E3D hotend for my Tantillus and there are a number of slick looking carriages on Thingiverse that are designed for the Ultimaker. Shouldn't be too hard to adapt one to a Tantillus. Just need the vertical distance between the XY rods. Anyone have a clue? I tried using calipers to measure but it's awkward and error prone.by wingnut - Tantillus
QuoteSublime What speeds are you printing at? I find higher speeds give a better outer finish. Did you mean *lower* here?by wingnut - Tantillus
I'm helping a friend build a Tantillus and I was planning on printing his case. I was wondering though about the spacer between the pieces of the carriage assembly. Can I print that or does it have to be laser cut?by wingnut - Tantillus
I got my heat pad on ebay. The seller will configure the pad for whatever power and size you want at no extra charge. I asked him to make me a 100x100 pad for 70Watts at 12V. He didn't have any at the time with these specs but I see he is selling them now: It comes with andhesive backing to aid installation. I backed it up with a sheet of 1/4 plywood scrap cut to size. The plywood provides somby wingnut - Tantillus
Thought I'd give an update of my experience with a heatbed so far. The short answer is that it's the best upgrade I've added so far. I now run the fans at 100% all the time and get no curling at all. Having the fans on all the time means that I can run the hot end much hotter and I still get good results with small details. Extrusion pressure is also reduced. I haven't heard the extruder skip oby wingnut - Tantillus
Interesting points Sublime. I will have to keep an eye on the arms. I'm confused about one point though. Why does a heated bed limit the amount cooling?by wingnut - Tantillus
For the sake of simplicity if nothing else but also to have as little mass on the head as possible.by wingnut - Tantillus
Got my heated bed sorted. Used the silicone heat pad like Sublime suggested. Works great:by wingnut - Tantillus
Any thoughts as to whether the case fans on the Tantillus would be enough to eliminate the hot-end mounted fan? Perhapse bumping up the size of the case fans?by wingnut - Tantillus
I use 1.75. The hot end came with an insert for it. Other than that, all I needed was the right size bowden cable and keeper nuts. I'm curious why you feel the need to switch. I've had chronic problems with the extruder skipping steps. I often wonder if thicker filament wouldn't help.by wingnut - Tantillus
Wow. Those both look awesome to me :-)by wingnut - Tantillus
The hobbed bolt is the same diameter. I wouldn't be surprised if this new one has a shallower cut in the hobbed section but I can't imagine that it would be enough to account for this big of a change in the reduction ratio. The "gain" setting in kisslicer is what I'm using. Was 1.1 with the original extruder. The math came up to 1.43 for the new ratio. Ended up at 0.9 after testing...by wingnut - Tantillus
I kind of backed into a 3.5 ratio. I originally intended to keep the stock ratio but ended up not having enough adjustment room to take up the slack in the belt so I just printed the large pulley bigger. I believe that I still have enough adjustment room left to print a larger small pulley if I need to. One thing I don't understand though. Instead of adjusting the E steps in the firmware, I attby wingnut - Tantillus
Thanks. I'm still retuning my flow rate and all I've printed is a couple of calibration cubes so I can't say if there's any improvement in the print quality. To be honest though, I wasn't expecting any. The reason I wanted to go with belt drive was to make the machine quieter. On that score, it's definitely a huge improvement. Yes, the flip top lid provides access to the bolt and carries the beby wingnut - Tantillus
Thanks Sublime. I'll keep an eye on the shape of the bowden tube with the head at all the extreme positions when I choose a location for the extruder. If I have to, I can also play with the angle that the tube exits the extruder.by wingnut - Tantillus
QuoteRobonz Talking about belts and pulleys, anyone tried replacing the gears in the extruder with a belt stage? I still have some more pulleys and belts lying around. I'm actually working on that now. I considered modifying the original extruder for belt drive but decided on something completely different. I'm attempting something similar to what the ultimaker uses with the stepper motor and exby wingnut - Tantillus
Interesting stuff. I'm wondering now about just ditching the threaded rod and going with a cable driven Z. I hate the idea of loosing resolution in Z though.. Anyone consider gearing the cable Z down with some belt driven gears? Robonz, can Is that some kind of cable tensioner inside your XY end? Something like that is top on my list of upgrades.by wingnut - Tantillus
Here are some pics of the cube I printed after replacing my hobbed bolt. It's the nicest looking cube to come out of my printer. Crazy thing is that this is printed from an old slice I had laying around so I'm not really sure what parameters where used. I know it 0.1 layers and really slow. I've been trying some more difficult prints with 0.15 layers and so far they're ok but nothing like this. Iby wingnut - Tantillus
In that last video, I can see the bolt moving up and down a little. My guess is that the big gear on the hobbed bolt is touching down on the extruder body and jamming. I had to shim mine a bit with a washer between the bottom bearing and the nut next to the bearing.by wingnut - Tantillus
I too have been getting pronounced banding. My only mods are belt drive for the X/Y and a spiral cut aluminum coupler for the Z. I just got done making and installing a new hobbed bolt and my first calibration cube is very promising (more testing tonight). My original must have been really bad because I could actually hear the difference. Much smoother sounding. I didn't know that the crunching aby wingnut - Tantillus
Well shoot! That looks like the way to go. Thanks again Mr Sublime.by wingnut - Tantillus
Thanks!. If the resistance is too low with two traces running parallel then why not concatenate them and have one long trace? That would quadruple the resistance no? I noticed that the original reprap PCB heatbed was composed of four traces running in parallel for 200x200mm. I rearrange it into a single 100x100 pad with a single trace of the same width. That should produce the same amount of heby wingnut - Tantillus
I'm working on modifying the layout file for the reprap pcb heatbed to fit the tantillus. I need the dimensions and hole locations for the build plate to finish it up. I could try and extract it from the dxf file but I thought I'd check first if anyone had them handy...by wingnut - Tantillus
Really? You don't think I should just buy a better hotend? Any thoughts on the E3D hotend?by wingnut - Tantillus
Hmm. Last time I looked at this config file, I didn't notice how many different thermistor configurations there are. I'm wondering now if I have the wrong thermistor configuration selected. I actually went with a pre-assembled budget ebay hot end (yeah.. I know :-) ). Been thinking about one of those all metal hotends from E3D. Probably would have saved me a ton of headache.by wingnut - Tantillus