I got a new sensor to see if I had damaged the electronics, but it has exactly the same issue. I tested the output with a multimeter, there is no change in resistance or voltage in the wire when the probe changes state. I can't understand how it could work without that. The indicator light turns on and off so something is going on, just nothing on the signal end.by blabberjack - Repetier
I've got an annet A8 style printer and have recently been trying to set up autoleveling using a bltouch sensor and repetier firmware. I'm using a ramps 1.4 board. I initially tried installing the bltouch using the servo jumper to power the solenoid but this caused damaged by ramops board. I now have it sdet up with 5v from the psu as in the diagram second from the top here, labelled "RAMPS1.4 + Eby blabberjack - Repetier
Any progress on this? My printer does what looks like the exact same thing though it just happened between two printed, the first came out perfect, I removed it and ran the same print again and the back side of the print is all stringy and bubbly like in the image you showed- no change to the hardware setup. I've decreased the temperature to 175 (was originally 210), increased it to 230 and set tby blabberjack - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello again, I went ahead and replaced the whole board, arduino, ramps and drivers this time just with standard pololus took a while for it to be delivered. I've now got two of the motors moving smoothly, everything else working fine; endstops, heaters, thermistors etc. what is happening now is that when the x,y and z motor leads are plugged in, at least one motor moves erratically. with only Yby blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
Sorry for the delay, I had to wait for drivers to be delivered. I have them installed now but actually the board appears to be more broken now, motors now don't respond at all and the termperature probes are reading between 2 and 10C which is much colder than it really is, they also don't respond to when I heat the hotend/bed. endstops are still responding. I got the DRV8825, haven't used them beby blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
Hello, I recently fried my Ramps Controller, I was doing a long print overnight, I woke up quite late and decided to go and check on the machine, the feed had blocked, no big deal, it happens sometime. My ramps controller is in a nest of wires though so to terminate the print I usually flip the socket instead of pressing the reset, I have to switch it off and then back off so that the fans keep rby blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
I think I figured out what may be happening, it seems like the printer moves as if it were a cartesian set up under certain commands. For example when I home the printer, it homes the "X" and "Y" tower together before homing the "Z" tower, rather than all three simultaneously which would be normal delta behaviour. I also noticed that while carrying out G29, the "Z" tower remains stationary whileby blabberjack - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I'm using G29 for my autolevel command, is there anything else I should know about its use or alternative commands? I can't find the defintiion to change between Grid Levelling and 3 Point levelling in the firmware, maybe this has something to do with my issues? I have found that by moving the axis to z10, the "Z" tower slider drops to about level with the end effector before all sliders move towby blabberjack - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I'm having a problem with a fresh marlin download I'm using to set up a delta printer. The printer has an electronic Z-probe which seems to be working properly (g30 works fine) however, when I send g29 the Z tower descends on its own, going below the height of the end effector and causing the magnetic rods to pop off. I have it set to probe in the Grid pattern with four probing points. The printeby blabberjack - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I have a delta printer set up witha capacitive z-probe and glass bed. I've previously had the printer running without a z-probe but got tired of reconfiguring the endstop offsets after each print to account for variations when I removed and replaced the printbed for cleaning/part removal. I followed the setup guide here although I am a bit confused about the section which describes moving all tby blabberjack - Repetier
thanks, I got it hooked up using the internal pullup resistor on the ramps board. I understand the point about designing systems to fail safe, just wish I had appreciated that before I bought the probe : )by blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
hey! it seems to be working now! I went into the configuration and just changed #define Z_PROBE_ON_HIGH 1 to 0 I had tried the different options in the online configuration wizard but honestly I think I prefered the setup when the firmware was neatly commentated so a layman like myself could pick through it. For the record, the setup I have is a cheap induction probe from ebay which triggers oby blabberjack - Repetier
I have a z probe set up on a large delta printer to compensate for errors coming from when I remove the print bed for removing parts/cleaning. I'm running repetier .91 in host 1.0.1. When I send G31 without the probe triggered I get Z-probe state:H When I trigger it, I get Z-probe state:L so so I know the probe is working. I have only max endstops they are wired X-Xmax Y-Ymax Z-Zmin Probe-Zmaby blabberjack - Repetier
I suppose I could summarise all my above ramblings with "can you use a normally open switch as an endstop/z probe?"by blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
Hi I have a rather odd setup which I've come up with to circumvent my inept electronics skills. I have a Delta printer which I want to use a bed probe with, my bed is aluminium so I have chosen a induction sensor as they are cheap and simper than a mechanical sensor. I have the output of the sensor wired to a DC Solid State Relay, I know that the actuation of the induction sensor closes the relby blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
hello, as a result of misdiagnosing an extruder problem, I pushed extruder temps higher and higher, causing my nozzle to eventually become clogged with soot. (I suspect the original problem was that when I assembled my e3d hotend, I did not tighten the threaded parts together sufficiently allowing the pla to ooze into spaces between the parts and increase nozzle pressure) I tried to clean out theby blabberjack - Printing
I've got all the mechanical stuff done now so I'm looking at the electronics and I've found that the signal output from the capacitive sensor is 5.7v is this too high to feed into the ramps endstop pin?by blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
Ok, now I am really stumped, I just replaced the ramps board (but not the arduino) and it kept happening! I've now replaced both boards, so new Ramps, new Mega and new stepper drivers and it is still a persistent issue! it doesn't make any sense! edit: I hunted around with a logic probe as a last hope and found that two of my drivers had been dmaaged somehow, I think maybe something happened toby blabberjack - Repetier
The reason I thought it might be firmware is that it seems to be something to do with the way the command to move X is handled, the hardware all seems fine. I was originally using repetier v0.95F, but now have 100RC2 The firmware I'm using is older, possibly 0.71 I can't be sure since I renamed the folder. I'll try setting up newer firmware and see if that helps. One thing that points to it maybeby blabberjack - Repetier
Hi, yes thats the issue, though when it is moving in the wrong direction, it misses steps. I've swapped the stepper drivers to rule them out. The problem I'm having is that while the problem first presented with the X axis plugged into a driver on pins 54, 55, 38 (step, dir enable respectively). and Y on pins 60,61,56. after changing them around several times, X is now on 36,34,30 (which was E0)by blabberjack - Repetier
Hi I've been having a strange problem with a single axis on my machine, it doesn't move smoothly in one direction; sometimes it moves forwards, sometimes back, so that if I send to +1mm commands to the board, the carriage will stutter backwards or forwards, alternating at each command. I can also have it move in 10mm increments, again it will move 10mm forwards sometimes, sometimes 10mm back. I'vby blabberjack - Repetier
It's been a long time since I did circuit diagrams in school but we were always taught to draw voltage rails with the potential difference and ground, that's what I've got here, the top bar is my 12v rail and the bottom is the ground, the potential difference between them is 12v. The pin headers for endstops on the ramps board have a +v and a ground pin as well as a signal, what I am proposingby blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for the answers. Jbernardis I'm not entirely sure what you mean common ground, the 12v will be coming from a source outwith the arduino but will be connected to the ramps board. I've attached a little circuit diagram of what I'm planning. The dotted line would connect the ground for the ground pin on the Ramps board to the ground on my power supply, but I'm not sure if that is safe.by blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
I have a capacitive NPN sensor I want to use as a bed probe, it needs a 12v supply voltage and returns a 12v signal. I'm wondering if I can just power the sensor directly from 12v instead of from the pin headers and return a 12v signal to the board but I'm worried this might fry the Arduino. If that's the case I will make up a zener diode voltage regulator for the signal. Any thoughts?by blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
Still going after abut 20 hours of printing, seems stable so I guess it was the PSU all along. I wish I could recommend people experiencing this problem troubleshoot the output from their PSU first, but honestly I don't know how you would do that. One thing to bear in mind though is that of all the electronic parts, the PSU is the cheapest to replace so maybe if you encounter an issue like this,by blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
Urgh. Hopefully this will be my final update for this thread. I managed to get a couple of complete prints out with the fix previous discussed. One completed, one aborted about 95% done and then after that I found that the board would again sporadically lose power, therefore resetting. Sometimes this would happen before the bed got up to temp. sometimes it would happen a few layers in etc. I concby blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
Ok, turns out that printing from the SD card does work, even though the board will immediately lose connection to the PC when it powers the heaters. If anyone else has this happen I would recommend disconnecting the USB cable from the board as soon as the then "run print" command is sent. I didn't do this the first time and my USB hub, through which my Ramps connects to my printer, went dead. Aftby blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
I got the diodes today and soldered them in. I can now get the motors moving much more reliably, I power up the board, reset it and then plug in the USB cable. This gets me connected to the board about %50 of the time. While the board is powered in this manner, I can move the steppers around and turn the fans on and off. However I am still finding that my board loses it connection to my PC when Iby blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
I tried that just now, I managed to get the motors moving again, but when I tried to heat the hotend, it disconnected the board. cruisouly the LED indicating that the mosfet for the heater was saturdated stayed on and the hotend heated up, the board was just unresponsive. I don't have an alternate power supply but if my experiement with the diodes fails that is what I will try next.by blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics
I was poking around with the board a bit just now, I managed to get the motors moving with the power applied to the board, but when I tried to heat the hotend, it disconnected again. could have something to do with the current required for the heater vs the motors? I haven't been able to replicate this, seems like a one off. I'm wondering if maybe something on the arduino could have blown? I haveby blabberjack - RAMPS Electronics