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GT2 2mm belt has a 2mm tooth pitch, but has a rounded tooth profile. MXL is very close to 2mm, at 2.032mm, but has a trapezoidal tooth profile. You shouldn't use the GT2 belt with the MXL pulley, and vice versa; you'll get backlash. If you got your Fisher from RepRapPro, get MXL belt. Get the ebay supplier to send you the right belt!
Ian
by
droftarts
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Fisher
Belts and pulleys supplied with original RepRapPro kits (and I guess emaker ones) were MXL, which is an imperial size with a tooth pitch of 0.080", or 2.032mm. They are 1/4" wide, or 6.35mm. Belts for the Fisher were 2.7m long. See:
If your belt has a pitch of 2.5mm, it's probably metric T2.5 belt. Don't use GT2 belt with the MXL pulleys, it will throw out the steps per mm. Either get proper MXL
by
droftarts
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Fisher
I'm pretty sure these are the ones we used to use:
We used to order quite a lot of parts from mouser.
Ian
ex RRP tech support
by
droftarts
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Fisher
RepRap Ltd is the company of Dr Adrian Bowyer (founder of the RepRap project) and daughter Sally, and was around before RepRapPro. RepRapPro was the name of the company they formed with Jean-Marc, who runs Emakershop. History lesson over!
Ian
by
droftarts
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Ormerod
Great work, dc42 and Christian. I'm glad someone has taken over development of the Duet and firmware. And firmware update over the web is especially cool!
Ian
by
droftarts
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Ormerod
I was going through my old pictures, and found these, dated 15th August 2013:
This is pretty much the first recognisable Ormerod. It's what RS saw, and then ordered 500 for Christmas! It was before we even had the Duet, so the electronics were a Melzi board.
Ian
ex RRP support
by
droftarts
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Ormerod
Quotedmould
As idle musing, I wonder whether it would be possible to use the jet for a paraffin or gas stove as a nozzle?
Dave
Yes, they have been used before, with varying degrees of success. An example:
And a couple of forum posts:
From memory, the main problem is usually that they are a bit flat around the nozzle (leads to the filament sticking to it, and getting dragged around), the inter
by
droftarts
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Ormerod
We did a lot of testing of this, but unfortunately it was very difficult to get it to work reliably, and most of the problem was down to swapping the filament. There's a couple of ways to do the swap; either you leave the hot end hot, retract filament a short distance to allow the next filament past, then extrude enough to clear the filament left in the nozzle, or you cool the hot end down to aro
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droftarts
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Fisher
Hi everyone
Many thanks for your support! It really does make a great difference to me.
I should also point out that, while I was one of the few 'public-facing' members of the RRP team, there were more of us, and I feel equally badly that they lost their jobs at the same time as me; Joe (who worked for RRP for even longer than me, in production, mainly packing kits), Tom (production, made all
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droftarts
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Ormerod
Quotebgkdavis
I think that's a little unfair, if RRP really didn't care they would not have bothered to release the Fisher 1, and just rode out on Fisher Beta sales, the fact that the Fisher 1 was released generally indicates the this is a really last minute decision, and I would not be surprised if it was based on poor Christmas sales...... however its possible that if could also be based on hig
by
droftarts
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Fisher
Nice! I always thought there was a market for a taller/wider Fisher, but the consensus at RRP was that, while taller was probably okay (though the longer Bowden tube may cause more hysteresis problems), wider would need stronger arms than the acrylic one supplied, so redesign and testing would be needed. We never got around to it.
Ian
by
droftarts
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Fisher
reprap.org and the forum are self contained and separate from RepRapPro; there's no need to mirror it, it was never directly under RRP control. Also, the RepRapPro github should stay around in perpetuity - there's no reason to delete it, so all the files should be available for as long as there is a github. I think the plan for the documentation is to leave it up as long as the RRP site lasts, th
by
droftarts
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Ormerod
Sorry about this, everyone, and thanks for all your support over the years.
I was made redundant on 11th December. I've stayed away from the forums since then to avoid any embarrassing questions, until there was an official announcement. I'll help out where I can, though I don't actually own an Omerod! I do have a Fisher, though, and might be able to have the Tall-merod at some point.
Anyone w
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droftarts
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Ormerod
Hi Zaccom
Are you sure it was the blue and green wire you changed? What is the wire order now? Because you should NOT swap the blue and green wire! Stepper motors have two coils (effectively two motors in one), and with our wiring they are fed by the green/black (or yellow) wires, and the blue/red wires. You should not mix these up; I'm not sure if it damages the stepper driver, but it won't be
by
droftarts
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Fisher
Hi David
Check the size of the stl parts. The rod spacing has changed for Fisher 1 by 3mm (though 3mm LESS than Fisher beta), and I'm not sure we've posted the updated version for Fisher beta yet. Try printing a known-size object, eg a 20mm x 20mm x 20mm cube, and see what size it comes out. Have you changed any of the calibration settings? If so, what? Also make sure that there is no backlash i
by
droftarts
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Fisher
DON'T disconnect the fan. It's main function is to cool the top of the nozzle. If it's not doing this, the nozzle heats up further up than it should, increasing the pressure needed to extrude, until eventually you have a nozzle blockage. If you are having problems with sticking, remove the fan duct under the effector. This should help parts stick to the bed, as they won't be cooled so fast. Howev
by
droftarts
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Fisher
See the ABS troubleshooting guide for lots of information about getting higher temperatures, and safe limits for the PSU voltage:
I wish more people would point this out!
Ian
RepRapPro tech support
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droftarts
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Ormerod
Quotedc42
Quotedroftarts
Yes, the temperatures on the Shield board will float around, as there is no analogue ground for the ground side of the shield thermistor circuits to plug into, so it is at the mercy of noise on the ground side. But it should be reasonably stable.
The shield board does pick up analog ground from the Duet - it gets it from the E0 thermistor connector. It is the original ve
by
droftarts
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Ormerod
To add to dc42's answer, see:
I think you have an old Duet with 1k ohm resistors. In the current config.g, we put:
;M305 P0 R4700 ; Set the heated bed thermistor series resistor to 4K7
;M305 P1 R4700 ; Set the hot end thermistor series resistor to 4K7
ie with a semi-colon on the front, to comment it out. The firmware default is 1k ohm, so it ignores these lines, and sets it to 1k ohm. But this
by
droftarts
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Ormerod
We supply 1.8 degree (200 full steps per revolution) NEMA 17 stepper motors. The Allegro A4982 offers full, half, quarter or sixteenth stepping, and the Duet is set to use sixteenth. Generally, there's no point going higher than 1/16 micostepping (or, accoding to the following, more than 1/10 microstepping), as the motor isn't accurate enough to take account of more steps; from:
"A step motor is
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droftarts
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Fisher
Ian
RepRapPro tech support
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droftarts
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Fisher
We've seen patterns in large, flat, vertical, areas of prints. We think it's more to do with the stepping of the motors, as they try to draw a straight line from what, effectively, is a series of curves. If you can post a picture, it may help to determine if this is the same thing.
Ian
RepRapPro tech support
by
droftarts
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Fisher
This is the maintenance page from the main commissioning instructions:
But DON'T use Acetone on the BuildTak; use 'rubbing alcohol' (aka denatured alcohol, or isopropyl alcohol). See:
The Maintenance page for Fisher should probably be removed, or at least point to this, with a few edits (like the above). This page is referred to in the instructions, for firmware updating. We don't specifically
by
droftarts
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Fisher
"it has the three belt drives as S1"
I think you mean these lines:
; Axis and motor configuration
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M569 P4 S1 ; Drive 4 goes forwards
M569 controls the direction the drive moves. Drive 0, 1, 2 and 3 are the X, Y, Z and extruder
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droftarts
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Fisher
Hold them in place with a piece of Sellotape/Scotch tape/Kapton tape/whatever tape you have handy. Put it over the hole, through the coils of the spring.
For some reason I never loose them, but my colleagues do! I think it's because they hold down the bed longer as they release it, so as it's twisting out of the mount, the springs are still compressed as they emerge from under the bed. So... pin
by
droftarts
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Fisher
Unfortunately, they are SolidWorks 2015. We needed another licence, and unfortunately, you can't buy old licences.
Ian
RepRapPro tech support
by
droftarts
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Huxley
Extruder drive instructions are now published. Unfortunately, I've had to deal with other things today, so haven't finished the wiring instructions.
The wiring is assembled with the last side panel, but the wiring is very similar to the Fisher Beta instructions, so you can probably carry on with this. There are two slots to put the wiring looms through, rather than one, now.
The top plate push
by
droftarts
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Fisher
I have answered Ian separately by email:
We would really like to understand how they have broken. We haven't had any breakages in 6 weeks of testing! Please could you consider, and give me some feedback, on the following:
1. Please send me a picture showing how they have broken. Send any other pictures that may also be appropriate.
2. I understand that they have broken around the ball mount -
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droftarts
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Fisher
I've just uploaded the effector and hot end instructions. Extruder drive and wiring tomorrow, hopefully.
Ian
RepRapPro tech support.
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droftarts
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Fisher
Hi Ian
I'm in the process of writing the instructions, and they should be finished by the end of the week; unfortunately taking picture, writing descriptions and checking all the details is taking longer than ideal. As you're an experienced builder, it shouldn't cause you too many problems - many parts are very similar to the Fisher beta. The extruder drive is quite different, and it's going to
by
droftarts
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Fisher
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Pages: 12345