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Pour les petites pièces (90% de mes impressions), j'utilise un petit lit chauffant gravé dans une carte de circuit imprimé de 160x100mm.
J'utilise du verre ordinaire, n'en chauffer qu'une partie risquerait de le fissurer, et puis les petites plaques de verre sont plus rapide à chauffer et plus pratique à changer.
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Petrus
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
A dessolering station is very useful to repair circuit boards and salvage electronic component. Unfortunately, they are also expensive, so I decided to build my own one from cheap parts.
For the most important part, the vacuum pump, I will use a cheap 12V mini compressor modified to plug a tube on the air intake. I also changed the motor for a slower and quieter one :
The white part of the base
by
Petrus
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Experimental and Hobby
What kind of project do you make ?
If it's electronics like I do myself, a 3D printed is very useful to print custom cases :
Don't think about the money you can save by printing stuff you can buy, but think about the custom stuff you can print and that you can't find in a store.
by
Petrus
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Reprappers
grumpenstein Wrote:
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> Wow Petrus, that is a great result! The cylinders
> your machine was making during the build are for
> wiping ooze?
I printed a tower in front of the model the prime the extruder the closest to the actual print, I also used a rubber wiper on the left to clean the nozzle from burnt ABS but there is still some b
by
Petrus
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General
Have you tried printing ABS with PLA support ? The PLA dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide solution (drain cleaner):
It works very well for me :
by
Petrus
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General
I made a custom board based on a 40 pin atmel atmega 1284, it has a total of 6 PWM channels, 2 for the extruders, 2 for the fans, 1 for the bed and one more that I don't use right now (maybe for a fume extractor in the future).
You can see the board and the complete electronic box here :
The shematics & PCBs files are here :
by
Petrus
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Controllers
I also use linux CNC to drive my 3D printer, it works very well and have some cool features like manual control with a joypad, easily move the print on different areas of the build platform, ability to measure the height with a switch to properly level the bed.
The only drawback is that you have to drive the bed and extruder heaters externally.
by
Petrus
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Controllers
I changed the electronics to switch between the two extruders. Driving the servo with its electronics was a bad idea, the position was changing with temperature and forcing too much on the ends. Now, I drive directly the DC motor in the RC servo with this circuit :
The current is limited to 400mA during ~0.5s and fall to 200mA after to maintain the position.
The schematic and layout are availabl
by
Petrus
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
The servo is driven by a circuit that generate the PWM signal for the two servo positions according a digital input :
My printer works with linux CNC so I use an output on the parallel port.
I added a wiper for the ABS nozzle at the beginning of the X axis :
And just printed that with it :
Time-lapse :
There is still some brown ABS on the print but it's much better than before.
by
Petrus
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
I tested it with a 12H white ABS/PLA print, the system didn't fail but I need to do some improvements on the ABS side. The print was contaminated by burned ABS that was in contact with the nozzle for too long.
I am working on a wipe system to solve this issue.
by
Petrus
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Do you mean the motors make audible noise ?
If this is the problem, what is the value of Cosc on your circuit ?
BTW, I updated the schematic and PCB files, removing the 8 useless diodes (oops) and using the free space to put a fuse on Vmot.
by
Petrus
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Controllers
Honestly, I didn't made any calculation, I took some 0.25mm diameter wire from a stepper motor, and I wound it 100 turns.
by
Petrus
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Look what I made!
And I can also use it to do some acetone vapors smoothing :
From left to right :
- raw print with 0.1mm layers
- smoothed with 2ml of acetone
- smoothed with 4ml of acetone
- smoothed with 6ml of acetone
by
Petrus
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Look what I made!
I made an hot-plate with magnetic stirrer to dissolve PLA support structures with heated sodium hydroxide. It can also be used to smooth ABS prints with acetone vapors :
It is powered by a 19V / 4A laptop power supply, the "brain" of the device is an Atmel atmemga328.
The plate temperature is regulated and read using a 10k ntc thermistor, the bath temperature can also be regulated using an exte
by
Petrus
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Look what I made!
At 80°C, the support is dissolved in 3Hrs
And I lowered the concentration to 50g / 500ml
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Petrus
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General
Eventually, I made an hot plate/stirrer :
The cardboard case is temporary, I will make a wiki about it once finished.
The PLA support is dissolved in 6H30 (heating-up included) with 100g of sodium hydroxide dissolved in 500ml of water at 60°C.
I also put other filament in the bath :
From top to bottom :
-Test part (GRRF white PLA / black ABS)
-GRRF white PLA
-orbi-tech transparent PLA
-GRRF tr
by
Petrus
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General
I wanted a dual extruder since a long time, I could just put two extruders side by side but I would have issues with oozing and the two tips would need to be exactly at the same height. So I made this :
The unused tip is lifted by a few millimeters by a rocking mechanism activated by a RC servo, at the same time the tip is closed :
Test print from the video with a Black ABS / white PLA, the
by
Petrus
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
I put the link to the wiki page where you will find the schematic on the first post.
I will update the design soon, replacing the useless diodes by a more useful fuse.
by
Petrus
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Controllers
I made the small heated bed for my first printer : then reused it for the heavy Mendel. It was mechanically engraved by the printer itself (Yeah, I love the self replication aspect of the reprap project) I use it most of the time, it heats up much faster than the big one and why wasting energy with a big print bed if I have to print a small object ?
I put the drawing on the wiki.
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Petrus
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General New Machines Topics
Wired1 Wrote:
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> Steel wire has to be the way to go. It doesn't
> stretch (normally) and is flexible enough to do a
> couple of turns around the drive motor.
Absolutely !
And I think wire-driven axis will be the standard system in repraps. It's easy to find (stainless steel fishing wire) and it doesn't need precision machined pulley
by
Petrus
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General
Richrap gave me an idea which might be usefull : making the smallest working gear that can be pluged on a small motor axle :
The gear has a diameter of 4.5mm teeth to teeth, the axle has a diameter of 1.5mm
Printed whith white PLA at 0.1mm layers and W/T of 3
PS : I made a video of the octopus print :
by
Petrus
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Competitions
As I promised, I printed the hand at half the size :
A tiny owl ? Chalenge accepted !
1/10 of the original size :
And what about a tiny octopus :
model :
All printed in white PLA at 0.05mm layers and W/T of 6 (single wall = 0.3mm)
Sliced with skeinforge.
by
Petrus
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Competitions
I like this contest, small object are fast to print so we can push the vertical resolution at it's maximum without spending several hours.
I was impressed by Dirty Steve's hand on the "Small Detail Extruder" topic :
He gave the .stl so I tried myself and here is the result :
Printed in white PLA with 0.05mm layers and W/T of 8 (single wall = 0.4mm). I used support as the bottom is not flat.
I
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Petrus
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Competitions
The driver I use is composed of 2 H-bridges circuits and a programmable circuit.
The ULN2003 is just a darlington array it only amplifies the current. It needs a circuit that convert the step and dir signals to phase signals.
So you need to add an L297 to your ULN2003, like this : .
by
Petrus
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Look what I made!
I made a cheap and easy to build large heated bed. The heated surface is 240 x 200mm :
It is built from 10mm thick cork, small nails, 0,25mm diameter copper wire from a stepper motor found in an old printer and 3mm glass on the top :
The bed didn't heat-up enough if I connect it on the two sides, so I made the connexion between the center and the sides. It heats-up to 120°C on 12V, maybe hi
by
Petrus
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General New Machines Topics
I am using a salvaged bipolar stepper driver, it works at 1/4 steps.
SW2 connects the step input of the driver to the output of the NE555 that generate the pulses or to the ground, so no pulses = brake.
Yep pin 1 is GND an pin 8 is +5V
by
Petrus
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Look what I made!
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) - 11 years ago