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QuoteRobertKuhlmann
The filament manufacturers are selling 2$/lb plastic with a 1500% profit margin! For just melting it, and form it to filament (a quite simple process)?
Haha, have you ever even tried extruding filament? It's a simple process to get a string of plastic, but it's pretty darned difficult to get a string of plastic that is accurate +-.05 mm over hundreds of meters!
If it was so
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PomeroyB
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In addition, Netfabb basic can do what you want. Adjust the sliders underneath the feature tree to choose where to cut. This way you can get nice smooth surfaces, if you don't want tabs.
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PomeroyB
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I've seen people use plastic bushings on aluminum rods... Seemed to work just as well as plastic bushings on steel rods!
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PomeroyB
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Quotealj_rprp
That being said the design seems to make sense and be real, but the dealbreaker for me is the cartridge system, just tailored to artificially inflate filament price and force you to use their own filament.
Their cartridge system doesn't force you to use their filament. You are free to fill the cartridges with your own filament, or ignore the cartridges altogether and just mount a s
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PomeroyB
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Andrew, that is interesting. I haven't seen any of the other topics, so this is some new info for me.
Still, I'd be hesitant to rule out a software or firmware issue... If only for the reason that messing with electronics can be much more time consuming and expensive than messing with the firmware.
Given the current information, the steps that I would take are:
Re-flash the board with Sprinter
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PomeroyB
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Hmm. If you don't see that text underneath the "Check Temp", then something is wrong... Can you upload an image of Pronterface when you click "connect"?
Also, do your motors make any sound when you try to move them?
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PomeroyB
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When the motors "home", it means that they travel until they activate the endstops. The buttons for these (in Pronterface), can be seen below:
If you've never clicked the buttons in the red squares, then it makes sense that your motors will not move.
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PomeroyB
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Andrew, I'm not sure how you can justify saying that his electronics are faulty based on the information he's given. That's a bit drastic, and will only cause panic! Sprinter has a safety feature that prevents cold extrusion, and Thanhliem could have plugged his thermistor into the wrong pins.
Thanhliem, which steppers don't move? Just the extruder motor, or the X, Y, and Z motors as well?
Have
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PomeroyB
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I find that the cloud service provided by Netfabb works much better than their desktop version.
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PomeroyB
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Great robot print! That's a pretty incredible improvement.
I'm going to echo NewPerfection, here, but it's worth it. The fills on your calibration parts look like there's way too much plastic. The tutorials page on the Tantillus site has a good bit on tuning flow, if you scroll to the bottom (I can't link it - Reprap forums thinks it's a spam link for some reason... But just google "Tantillus Tu
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PomeroyB
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I prefer ABS, because it is easier to finish afterwards. It's also a bit better for bridging, since, in my experience, PLA tends to be too runny to get goo bridging. With ABS I can bridge nearly 2 inches without a fan, easy.
The only fault of ABS (that I can think of) is it's .005% warp, which can be controlled with a heated build plate. If you design your parts with the warpage in mind, then it
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PomeroyB
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One of the issues that I've seen with the method of DLP that you have diagrammed is that gravity works against you. The bigger the piece you print, the more adhesion is required between the piece and the build plate.
Another hurdle is the cost of the resin. If you want a piece to double in area, you need to quadruple the the amount of resin in a tank (2"x 2"x 2" tank has a volume of 8 cubic inch
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PomeroyB
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WOOF, the 3D printing club at the University of Washington, tends to lean towards molded parts rather than printed. We print out printer parts, then mold them, and then cast them to make more printers. We can make about 20 printer kits (only the plastic parts, of course) in less than a day. It wouldn't make sense to try to print out all those parts, just because it would take forever.
Our group
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PomeroyB
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Your slicing software also may be putting down twice as much plastic on the first layer to help adhesion, so that may be something to check.
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PomeroyB
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Interesting point about the die swell and melt fractures. Thanks for the info!
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PomeroyB
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Could you explain why the filament diameter after extruding, up to solidification is more ambient sensitive if you are going slower/faster?
I can see why the temperature gradient would need to be very controlled for the barrel of the hot end, but the temperature of the molten plastic should be the same for both speeds. After the plastic leaves the nozzle, the temperature gradient of the hot end
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PomeroyB
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Ah, you got me there. I guess "slow" is based on one's frame of reference.
If the math akhlut did above is correct, 1 pound of filament is approximately 225 feet. 2.2 pounds (1kg) seems to be a "standard" spool size, and that is approximately 495 feet.
So at 60 feet per hour, it will take 8.25 hours to finish 1 spool.
If you can crank it up to 8 feet per minute, you can do just under 1 spool (480
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PomeroyB
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What's the fastest speed anyone's been able to run these at reliably? 1 foot per minute is still pretty darned slow...
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PomeroyB
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Also the speed involved. 8 inches per minute? That would take forever to go through a batch of pellets. It would take just as long to make the filament as it would to print anything with it!
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PomeroyB
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The only bit of advice that I can give is to make a 3D model, and to design using that. Being able to work and experiment digitally is so much better than doing it physically. No material cost, easily undo mistakes, and the ability to save different iterations is the bee's knees.
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PomeroyB
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I'll start this off, I suppose. I have never been able to get around to printing a trilo before, so this contest was good motivation for me!
The body was printed at .27 layer height, and the head and tail were printed at .15 mm layer height. No cooling enabled, so the tail came out a bit wonky. It's scaled to 50% size.
Crawling over some calibration cubes
Halfway over!
Nearly there!
Good job
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PomeroyB
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Competitions
Has the patent on heated build chambers already expired, or are these guys just ignoring it? I'm having trouble finding the patents while on mobile.
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PomeroyB
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Our printer is actually a re-purposed DynaTorch plasma cutter. We just added a z-axis and an extruder. Mechanically, the Z-axis is able to do sub-millimeter movements, but when you're printing things like a 3x7 foot canoe, or a life-size toilet, it just doesn't make sense to print at that resolution.
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PomeroyB
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Let's go in the other direction! Like Davew_tx said, size matters!
Big picture on this link... dial-up beware!
The bust was printed on a Makerbot Replicator 2. The thing it's laying on is 1/2 of a toilet printed out of recycled milk jugs.
Approximately 3-4 mm layer height, printed in HDPE. We were experimenting with how adding detergent bottles affects the color. You only need about 5-10% of c
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PomeroyB
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I find it funny how there isn't a single positive comment in this thread. The closest is that the machine is "still pretty quick though".
Instead, people purport that since it isn't printing anything, it's useless.
Obviously the lesson here is that one should never post works in progress, as people only care about the end result.
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PomeroyB
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Interesting read. I'd eat it.
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PomeroyB
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If you can't get those overhangs to work, you can always cut it in half, print it vertically, and then print out another half and glue them together. Superglue works with PLA, and ABS cement works really well with ABS.
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PomeroyB
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I don't know of any specific competitions for making a cylinder, but you may be interested in this "thing"
Using a fan to print aggressively acute overhangs
You can also try searching for printer "torture tests". These usually include crazy overhangs.
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PomeroyB
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That could work. You would probably want to turn on the fan a couple minutes before you start your print, to heat up the bed before printing.
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PomeroyB
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(Pics Inside) - 12 years ago