Show all posts by user
Page 1 of 3
Pages: 123
Results 1 — 30 of 75
Z steps are calculated by the number of micro steps per revolution of the stepper divided by the pitch of the threaded rod .
M5 threaded rod has pitch of 0.8 mm and most steppers set at 16 micro steps will give 3200 steps per revolution.
3200 divided by 0.8 = 4000 steps per mm
And M6 is 1 mm pitch
by
Myles
-
Printing
I bought mine at a local computer shop, expensive. Here is the same one on amazon
A lot cheaper!
by
Myles
-
General
The PSU I hacked was a Tesla 500w, 24 amps.(New)
I considered that 20 amps minimum is required if using a heated bed.
by
Myles
-
General
Conscripted
If you are in the UK I would be happy to print a couple for you and stick them in the post for free.
by
Myles
-
General
uGen,
I am very impressed with the tolerances, I am using spectra line on my Mendel,
with a 0.3 mm nozzle at 0.2 mm layer height, my prints have never been better.
Printing a smaller pulley also increases the steps per mm a little.
I have designed parts that fit together perfectly. Attached is an example. The 2 parts each have a printed bearing and run smoothly on a rod.
As I rate quality ove
by
Myles
-
General
I also used t2.5 with metal pulley, and had great results.
but have recently switched to fishing string, I think the prints are better and
the printer is almost silent now, the only sound is the extruder.
As you can also print your own pulley for string, the cost is greatly reduced too!
by
Myles
-
General
I found this useful,
by
Myles
-
General
Also in the process of building a delta, am using RAMPS and expect to be using Marlin
Here , I found a link to the marlin firmware
Which is here,
Have looked through the configuration.h file and see defines for delta, so I hope it does the job, there is
some calibration info on the Rostock page but I have not found much more than that
Good luck
by
Myles
-
General
I think you have to click on the questionnaire link.
Works for me
Edit, once you click on the link, it won't let you in again if you don't complete the survey?
I just checked the link but did not do the survey, not it won't let me in to do the survey?
by
Myles
-
General
I have a set of i3 printed parts with a fill of about 40%, and I have just weighed them, ~275 g
Faberdashery says 100 m of 1.75 mm filament weighs about 300 g,
so you should be safe with 100 m, as long as there are not too many failures.
Your slicer should also tell how much you need after slicing each part.
Hope that helps
by
Myles
-
General
They look to be on top a Arduino/RAMPS which would make them 40 mm fans
Edit, 17 fans, that's a lot of fans
by
Myles
-
General
It was actually this link that I meant to point to,
by
Myles
-
General
You could try this thread,
by
Myles
-
General
How about printing a car in parts
Or
by
Myles
-
General
You say you have a heater under the glass, If you are printing PLA onto heated(60 c) glass, you should have no problem with it sticking,,
without the need for any tape.
by
Myles
-
General Mendel Topics
Correct, you need to change the settings in configuration.h.
You can do this with Arduino software, check which version you need for your board and firmware.
The files you need will be on github I think
Edit, this page may be useful if you are using Marlin,
by
Myles
-
General
You need to adjust the end stop settings in configuration.h of your firmware
by
Myles
-
General
If you are using M5 threaded rods directly connected to the stepper motor, then your Z steps/mm should be 4000
3200 micro steps per rev divided by 0.8 mm pitch = 4000
by
Myles
-
General Mendel Topics
Hey Sublime,
I know from seeing your excellent prints and visiting your website that you know what you are talking about and that you have done your maths homework, but , I thought an M8 rod had a pitch of 1.25 mm which would mean 160 whole steps/mm.
but I would not argue with the layer heights of .152 and .148 you give although I would like to know how you calculated them. And though I'm sure
by
Myles
-
Printing
I thought you started this topic with the title "Waves in Z axis of prints"?
by
Myles
-
Printing
Some misunderstanding, Z steps/mm is a setting in firmware, which is different to layer height.
In order to set your Z steps accurately you need to calculate the number of steps that your motor turns in order to turn the lead screw
to give you 1 mm of lift.
You can adjust this by uploading new firmware settings or if you can in pronterface, M501 might work,
I have no idea what firmware Lulzbot u
by
Myles
-
Printing
Have you checked your wiring, tighten up the connectors on the board, try using a different motor for the extruder,
Just ideas!
by
Myles
-
Printing
Bwhoward,
Glad to hear you have made some progress, but
Please tell us what your Z steps/mm are set at.
by
Myles
-
Printing
I calculated 2.11666 too but the figure bwhoward was given by Lulzbot was 2.1082, so that is what I based on.
I'm not sure I understand thick and thin layers, but If as you say Dale, we can only rely on 200 full steps then
1 missed step is still only .01 mm and still won't make much difference.
I am interested in the Z steps/mm setting bwhoward has, as I agree that the problem could be due to a
by
Myles
-
Printing
Yeah, 10.7 or later, sorry, maybe you can give it a try after you get 10.8
Good luck with the upgrade
by
Myles
-
General
Ohmarinus,
I notice you are using mac, I have been using autodesk Inventer Fusion for a while now, it is free and I have
been very happy with what it can do and the prints it produces.
It may not be the solution you are looking for but it could be worth a try.
Edit, if you do give it a try, just remember that their Y is your Z !
by
Myles
-
General
Even with the steep pitch of those acme rods, and assuming the steppers are nema17,
1 lost Z step is only 0.0006588125 mm, hardly going to make a big difference.
Lulzbot claim accuracy of 0.075 mm
Again assuming nema17 motors at 3200 steps/rev, the pitch of the acme at 2.1082 mm/rev makes for some nasty numbers.
For 1 mm travel the motor needs to turn 1517.8825538374 steps, not even a whole
by
Myles
-
Printing
Is the reset jumper on the board connected, is the board being powered from USB
Is your avrdude file in the right place and the right version
Hope this helps
by
Myles
-
General
Page 1 of 3
Pages: 123