Show all posts by user
Page 2 of 4
Pages: 1234
Results 31 — 60 of 92
Just recieved my next Filament batch. Message me for samples if you would like to try some out before ordering
Only selling in Australia, all stock on Hand in Melbourne and sent within 24hrs of confirmed payment. The sales of 1.75mm filament even from this batch in which a lot has been presold has surprised me, if you are dissapointed that your favorite colour is already missing let me know a
by
gazob
-
Australia - for sale
Sold my first spools of filament at the hackerspace last night, have limited colours of pla and abs in 1.75 and 3.0 mm filament remaining. Price at the space is $25 a spool (printer nights and alternate tuesdays), ask for colours, can post australia wide for a flat $10 on this batch. Am very interested in feedback on the filament, I have been more then pleased with everything recieved and used.
by
gazob
-
Australia, Melbourne RUG
Was / am planning on having inner and outer hull shapes 2 to 5 mm apart, 2 to 3 shells and low density Infiill. The 2 walls joined by the sparse infill should be strong. Then a layer of epoxy over the top should provide additional strength.
Have already moceekd one hull up will print at about 150mm length single object print with support.
Gaz
by
gazob
-
Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
It looks like things are progressing with my filament supplier.
Longer term and ongoing pricing likely to be $45 shipped from eBay, and $30 picked up for a single 1kg spool. Filament will be supplied on a sturdy spool, in a zip lock bag with desicant, inside a cardboard box with a window.
Next printer night I hope to bring in some samples, if anyone was interested on this night only I would do
by
gazob
-
Australia, Melbourne RUG
best answer yes and no,
there are many completed electronics packages, most will have a generic firmware loaded.
The firmware loaded will not know the size of your print bed and the dimensions of your build envelope
It wont know where you have situated endstops and how they indicate they have been triggered
They wont know what sort of thermisters are in your heated bed or extruder, so they wi
by
gazob
-
Controllers
A number of years back i was contemplating building one of these
Basically a fun and cheap RC yacht class, with a simple largely fit inside the box rule so allows for all sorts of weird derivatives.
Now with a 3d printer i realise I could print the hull as a thin shell and sparse infill, and then finish, strengthen waterproof the hull with epoxy.
All that being said never really been a rc an
by
gazob
-
Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
when i asked for filament diameter, i was asking for the precise measured diameter and roundness. If the filament is over 3mm in diameter at any point of its cross section it will grip the ptfe. Some manufacturers sell as 3mm +- .1mm and up to .1 ovalling as their standard tolerances, this could mean the filament is up 3.2mm across in one direction, trying to push this through a constrained ptf
by
gazob
-
General
Fwiw I don't think it was sold as a jhead, tom may attribute the jhead as his starting point, but its his own design.
Looking at the pictures I think your ptfe liner was too short, I had similar issues at one point and I wasn't initially pushing the liner far enough into the peek block before marking and cutting to length as per toms instructions, since fixing that I haven't had an issue, what
by
gazob
-
General
Just printed one out, and not as compact as it looked. Will check on the ordbot gantry, with a mocked motor and gearset but think it will be too deep and move the cog too far of the back of the x gantry plate.
Still like the pinch mechanism, may steal that bit
Gaz
by
gazob
-
Plastic Extruder Working Group
I'm liking the simplicity, how effective is the soft sleeve at maintaining tension on the filament drive gear, any thoughts of an eccentric sleeve and tensioned arm, I'm guessing that would complicate things, but was something I was thinking about.
Will print one up to have a look at how it goes together, and how it can be modified for a vertical gantry.
Gaz
by
gazob
-
Plastic Extruder Working Group
It is a question that gets raised a lot, we probably need a set of 3 objects that interlock closely, each fit within a 100mm cube build area.
Built with similar parameters, the time to print each object, which interlocked with 2 of the standard pieces could form a metric for speed.
A measure able quality and minimum quality would be harder to achieve, but maybe something single walled and wat
by
gazob
-
General
Ive been looking at some of these or the new purple ones from pololu. Ive burnt out a couple of mine recently, I had one spare, now I'm 1 driver less then what i need.
At +$4 or even +$8 per stepper driver its a small price if the risk of burning out a stepper driver is significantly reduced.
There are a few other driver around though that also interest me including Royco's stepsticks at Panuc
by
gazob
-
Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
certainly does, thanks for that.
love the software, more people should use it. Dont have a lot of experience with anything else, but from what i see this is the best offering out there.
Saw that lcd's are now supported, am I better off going with your firmware as well, any advantage over Marlin
Garry
by
gazob
-
Repetier
My printer as described in repetier and firmware has a Z height of 152, Homing is to max on my printer and when homed the host displays a Z height of 514, previous versions have shown the correct height, the actual printer shows the correct Z height as well, and the 3d display is correct for the build area, so the only real issue is the display, is this just something left over from a previous co
by
gazob
-
Repetier
Matthew,
might be worth following links elsewhere in this subforum to the melbourne cchs hackerspace 3d printer nights. The hackerspace has communal tools suitable to your needs which you can utilise by joining and coming along. Would offer to print, but pla is probably not the best material to print phone covers from as its a bit hard and brittle, ABS is probably more suitable.
Garry
by
gazob
-
Australia, Melbourne RUG
Thanks Auzze,
NZ is quite close and dont think there would be anything to be gained by dropshipping Vik's filament. While it is undoubtedly good stuff, arguably the best or second best worldwide, the prices put it in a different market to chinese filament. The stuff Im getting is very good, but certainly not faberdashery or diamondage good, and I would never represent it as such.
Prices would
by
gazob
-
Australia, Melbourne RUG
Just testing the waters a little.
Have been very impressed with the PLA filament I recieved from a chinese wholesaler, read my other threads if you want a direct link.
The problem with buying direct from them is although they have a samples program, they dont have a webshop for private sales, and postage from china on low quantities of filament is either slow or expensive.
I am thinking of sup
by
gazob
-
Australia, Melbourne RUG
Springs are not a huge issue, Ive got a few around from different things Ive pulled apart in the past, and plenty of things to pull apart. Best bet is the tensioning spring for the safety on a nail gun, Ive got a couple of spares and they look pretty close, they are actually perfect for a 25cm bobblehead.
With the qu-bd extruder, it may just be a handfull of issues from a large production run,
by
gazob
-
Australia, Melbourne RUG
see here
I would buy more from them
The qu-bd extruder however out of the box is probably not the best, I spent 4 days and then gave up and bought a gregs / eades extruder and hotend from
Looking at the faric8r support forums for the qu-bd extruder my experiences arent uncommon, with many choosing to match the pretty good supplied hotend and motor with a minimilistic mk7 extruder like this
by
gazob
-
Australia, Melbourne RUG
calibrate.
The 2 most important calibration objects are the .5mm thin walled object, and the 20mm 100% filled cube.
From your image it looks more like you are overstruding then underextruding.
Turn off all the extra bits like add a .2 on restart from retract, in fact for the first calibration object turn retraction off completely.
objects with explanations can be found here
after slicing th
by
gazob
-
Printing
if your happy for it in pla, ill have a go, looking for test items at the moment, have a reasonable variety of colours, is the file on thingiverse or online somewhere? or pm me and ill reply with an email address
cost will be plastic cost only if you want 1, Im paying $30 per kg, so thats what ill charge for the first, if your happy with it and want more than one we can work something out,
Ill
by
gazob
-
Australia, Melbourne RUG
My first attempt ,at the fabric turned out as above, all joined together, flexible but not desperate interlinked loops. Is it maybe speed or heat, are we maybe printing too quickly and having our bridges weld. There maybe an ideal layer height for the fabric as well. Just thoughts...
by
gazob
-
Competitions
for PLA im using pva on a mirror tile.
From clean I brush dillute 50/50 pva glue on the bed very thinly and allow to fully dry, and repeat maybe 3 or 4 times, when i notice it getting shiny or thin I reapply. I level the bed with everything at print temps to a paper thickness at 0 holding the paper and at .1 allowing paper to move, then use z offset to set my initial layer for nice prints. As
by
gazob
-
General
The layout of the forums is the main issue,
Many of the same questions get asked all over the place.
In reality the noobie questions are largely.
What to buy
I've got an issue building
I've got an issue with the electronics
Calibration
Why does my print look like this
A newbie friendly area with some dedicated moderators / knowledeable helpers wouldn't go astray, based on the recurring qu
by
gazob
-
General
Ill be bringing my printer along this time, getting some good prints.
so anyone who wanted to see an ordbot hadron in action your more then welcome.
GaZ
by
gazob
-
Australia, Melbourne RUG
The problems with the qu-bd extruder are pretty well documented over on the forum
seem to be a few things causing what you are seeing
Definately the heatbreak, before I went to a more traditional extruder I had some better results with an additional fan blowing through the heatbreak, as well as the one on the heatsink, reduced temprature in this area from 30 to 25 degrees, but neither of these
by
gazob
-
Reprappers
I bought one of these in a 1.75mm filament variety .40 nozzle, scwerta was kind enough to source me most of the parts for a complete extruded, and I must say its been perfect, I now feel I'm getting better at printing and I attribute much of the success to the great extruder supplied from scwerta.
Gaz
by
gazob
-
Australia, Melbourne RUG
The .5 thin walled object is meant mainly to check your extrusion rate, have a look at the code you generate for it, in the header will be listed single perimeter width, this is what you should be checking on this object, mease the wall width of the last extrusion and calibrate either steps or multiplier till the average of the sides matches that.
The solid block then checks that 100% fill doesn
by
gazob
-
General
Ordbot hadron does not have any printed parts, unless you are talking extruder, they are all lasercut acrylic or water jetted alu.
Much of the design strength comes from this fact but I suppose you could print parts, do you have the stl's?
GaZ
by
gazob
-
Australia - for sale
The one part of calibration that did my head in for the longest time was the thin walled test object, I would calibrate to .5mm thickness and then could not print a solid filled object. The clue with the thin walled object is to check the gcode to find out what wall thickness should be for a single wall, and then calibrate till your walls match.
by
gazob
-
General
Page 2 of 4
Pages: 1234