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115c is WAY TOO HOT for the bed
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
your first layer is too far from the bed
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
KISSlicer, in my testing and print quality comparisons beats every other slicer.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Kisslicer has been my slicer of choice for 5 years.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
At home level filament extruders are a waste of time and effort. They can never make consistent diameter filament.
This has been attempted again and again.
And on recycling failed prints, you'll never be able to remove all the contaminate particles from the plastic being reused.
Commercial level filament production is pulled to diameter, not extruded to diameter. 1.75mm filament is pulled to
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Would not be from vibrating, the build plate can swell and contract from heating, causing your Z 0 to physically change while printing, causing upper layers to squash. This can happen with even a minor swing high and low around set temp.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Beta tested the Hybrid. FAR too delicate, extremely thin walls behind all thread connections, Twisted threads off of a nozzle, snapped the heat break. OVER engineered without durability.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
If not Z-wobble, this can also be caused by the bed flexing while trying to hold temp.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
What does this print like with multiple objects with travel and retraction? I expect excessive stringing and ooze due to the excessive pressure in the hot end to achieve wider extrusion than nozzle size.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Only other thing i can think of is an out-of-round hobbed bolt, if your extruder is a Wades design. I make my own hobbed bolts and had a slightly elliptical, inconsistent diameter hob job that could be seen in the print surface.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
For ABS, slice with a brim, use glue stick or hairspray. It's not the tuning of the bed heat, alot beds can flex with a 1 degree heat swing, and that is only at the thermistor, not the entire surface/mass of the bed.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
try printing without bed heat.......seriously. I've been printing for 4 years, I might know something.......
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Try a print with your heated bed turned off, that looks like bed flex.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
I regularly print trimmer line. Cold bed, with glue stick on glass. Are you baking the trimmer line before printing? It holds alot of moisture, and even after baking, it will only stay dry for about a day or so. Printing at 265c. Printing with a brim definitely helps reduce warping.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
I had a similar problem with an out-of-round hobbed bolt.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
80% nozzle size for max layer thickness. You can get a 0.2mm layer with a 0.25mm nozzle, but you're not going to get a 1.4mm layer with a 1.5mm nozzle, 1.2mm layer at 80%. (just got a 1.5mm nozzle with the new Pico hot end design I am beta testing)
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
What size nozzle? Are you using nozzle size for your extrusion width, or calculated 'in air' extrusion width in your slicer?
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
You can do a replace edit to comment out the temp gcode lines in a text editor. Replace M140 with ;M140, M104 with ;M104, etc.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
My machine has done this twice for two reasons, First time was a failing stepper driver, second time was a loose connection in the wiring.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Your clothes pin spring tensioner could also be twist loading the belt.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
I'm running a TB6560 4-Axis board thru a LPT1 port with Mach3. Once configured and you get the correct gcode output from the slicer, no issues. Manual PID heat controls, powered on/off via spindle control relay.
Fujitsu Lifebook laptop, Intel Pentium 4-M 1.7 GHz, 512mb ram, more than enough to run Mach3 and a TB6560. Even an ancient Intel 486 chipset can handle Mach3.
No hurt or frustration, Ch
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Forget extrusion width........set it to the same size as the diameter of the nozzle, much much better results from every slicer. KISSlicer, Slic3r, Cura, Skein Forge, Simplify.3d
Try Slic3r with auto-calculated extrusion width, then try it set to nozzle diameter, you will immediately see the difference.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
isn't that still going to wobble? It's still not the glass that moves, it's the PCB that moves everything around.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Slic3r's auto-calculated extrusion width has never been correct for my printer. I use nozzle size for extrusion width in all the slicers I print with. Slic3r, KISSlicer, Simplify3d, and SkeinForge at times.
You can't get an extrusion width of 1.28mm from a 0.4 mm nozzle.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Set all your extrusion widths to 0.4mm, same size as your nozzle,(should even out infill and perimeter) and re-calibrate your extruder steps/mm. How did you come up with 0.68 for a 0.4mm nozzle?
Ideal setup would have an extrusion multiplier of 1, being at .75 and .8 shows something being off in your configuration.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
I haven't run across or figured out a better bed mount setup myself. I print on 1/4" mirror.
You will still see bed flex at higher temps, it's the high/low swing around the set temp that causes the variation in the print. I think the flex is in the PCB heater and not the glass itself. I don't think the glass is changing much in a 3-5 degree temperature swing, and you can flex a PCB heater by han
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
I would say tighten the screws. I have the same configuration, heated PCB mounted with screws with glass and clips. There is flex in the PCB from the mount points to the glass and clips. I have the same issue at times, not sure of and haven't run across a method to make this a more stable setup.
Also you can try to tighter PID tune your bed, to reduce temperature swing.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
If you can get adhesion to your bed, try a print without the bed heat on. Try glue stick or blue tape. You may have bed flex caused by the heating and cooling.
If this is a smoother print, change your bed springs to the stiffest springs you can use, or tighten your bed screws as tight as you can with still being able to level the bed.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
You don't want to use bearings on your threaded z-rods on the ends opposite the motors. It is better to let the end of the rods wobble freely so that less wobble is forced into the xy carriage.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Linear rods and bearings (not gonna hang a router on 700mm of 8mm rod, conduit is a poor choice for rails), wiring, nuts and bolts, ect. Finer points..... free labor I guess.
Software to run CNC, laser, and 3d printing on a firmware based controller?
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Page 1 of 19
Pages: 12345
- 8 years ago