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I tent my printer with a mylar type blanket, just have to make sure the mechanics can move freely, and that the mylar doesn't come in contact with my motors. They run on the hot side and can melt the mylar. I can print up to my max height of 210mm without warping or de-laminating.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Sounds more like dropped Z steps when printing, so when you reset for the next print the nozzle is physically lower than your controller thinks it is.
If you are running 2 Z axis motors, one side can drop steps, making it appear the bed is not level when actually Z is tilted to one side.
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Dirty Steve
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General
If you have a dremel tool, the little round white buffing wheels make a pretty good duster.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
Thanks richgain, I can post some better close-ups tonight, the 10mm one is pretty good, 4mm is a bit lumpy.
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Dirty Steve
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Competitions
$87.95 a lb. is pretty pricey for such a commonly used plastic.
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Dirty Steve
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General
It's a fine balancing point on temperature. Too low and it barely extrudes and the output is cloudy, or hot syrup. It has to be aggressively cooled coming out of the nozzle, and requires a filament puller setup to get anything close to consistent filament diameter. I have extruded several unusable meters of it.
I think I can get it, eventually. I have searched alot on PET extrusion, but haven't
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Dirty Steve
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General
You will have a very rough time extruding PET with a filament extruder. I've been trying off and on for a few months to get my filament extruder to handle it. Higher temps than ABS, at extruding temp PET is like a syrup and drops off from the extruder nozzle from it's own weight.
I haven't found anyone printing with PET, or successfully making PET filament with a home extruder. No sources for PE
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Dirty Steve
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General
Your extruder gears are not close enough. I can hear the teeth 'click' when the motor reverses. This causes backlash in your extruder.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
If you are stupid enough to load a round into a plastic gun, maybe you deserve to blow your hand off........
of age? I'm sure no one on here ever consumed alcohol before they were 21........
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Dirty Steve
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General
100% 40mm cube
50% 20mm cube
25% 10mm cube
10% 4mm Cube
Black ABS, 100% infill, 2mm raft.
Edit:
Wooden Mendel variant, Wildseyed type hotend, Mach3 control.
.25mm nozzle
.2mm layer
10mm/sec
2 perimeters
1mm retract
230 degrees
no bed heat
by
Dirty Steve
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Competitions
There should be a short piece of PTFE inside the the thermal barrier. It's probably in there or your filament would be more of a mess when removed.
Most likely you are getting heat creep. When the heat rises to far up the hot end, the filament 'plug' rises up and will jam in the barrel. If you can, try mounting a small fan to blow across the barrier piece.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
What type is your hotend? Are you running a fan on your thermal barrier? Are you running a PTFE liner in your barrier? It looks like you are getting heat creeping up your hotend and clogging in the thermal barrier, common problem.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
I'm running ABS at 230, 110 bed for first layer, then about 80 for rest of print, no problems with kapton, blue tape, or hairspray on glass, all work for me.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Your first layer Z height is too high.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
no bed heat, it causes the adhesive of the tape to become soft and pull up from the bed. I've gotten away without a brim on some small parts.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Blue painter's tape, no bed heat, wide brim, hot and slow 1st layer.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
no, the print would cool and shrink.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
I would have asked for my money back WAY before now. Over a year past shipping dates. That's way more time than it took me to source and assemble my current printer.
Would be very frustrated if I was a supporter, this was my first printer, was ready to get into 3D printing NOW but had to wait over a year to even get a printer.
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Dirty Steve
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General
I personally don't use the thin wall extrusion method, because the width will vary with feedrate, and variances in filament diameter.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
No longer using Slic3r, but your extrusion widths should not be 0, that's the only obvious thing I see in your settings. I get the best prints, reguardless of what slicer, with extrusion widths equal to nozzle diameter.
Having any Z lift on retraction usually causes more problems than it's worth.
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Dirty Steve
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General
ROFL! Thanks crispy1! Personally it is a dead issue. I.E. a month old post.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
I would just place masking tape around the shaft to cover the bearings to keep the debris out when you grind the flat with the shaft lightly clamped in a vise with masking tape on the jaws as to not damage the shaft.. Do it in several passes to keep from building up too much heat. I would also place tape over the back side of the shaft, and over the entry point of the wires.
I have taken motors
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Dimension>Retraction distance (with everything dialed in correctly this should be around 1mm or less) This can cause the blobs at the start points due to the amount of time the nozzle is not moving to retract the filament 2.2mm.
Fill>Thread Sequence(best setting is Loops>Perimeter>Infill
Support material settings are under Raft tab, support is tricky in SF.
If your machine steps/mm
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Dirty Steve
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General
the penultimate file should have a name like male end_penultimate.gcode. The file will have all the SF settings at the beginning.
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Dirty Steve
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General
It will save to the same directory that your .stl file is in. I'm in the US, don't worry about it, this is what this forum is for.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Can you slice it and post the Penultimate gcode so I can take a look at all your Skeinforge settings?
Under Export>Save Penultimate checkbox at the bottom. Will save to the same directory.
Nozzle size? Filament size?
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Dirty Steve
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General
1. Still extruding too much material
2. Still dropping steps in your Y axis motor
3. ??
4. Oozing material onto bed as extruder moves from 0 to the start position of the print.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
It's not the design, even if the print was two calibration cubes spaced apart the print would have these issues at the same settings..
The print problems here are just fine tuning issues to me, not major.
I've made much larger jumps to much smaller islands without blobs, strings, or ooze.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
You are dropping steps on your Y axis stepper motor. Check for belt binding/over tightened belts, or depending on your electronics you may need to up the current to that motor.
I have dropped steps before when extruding too much plastic so that when the extruder passes on the next layer, it can actually get snagged by the material from the previous layer.
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Dirty Steve
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General
I can't help you with temperature gcode. I'm running Mach3 software and manually control my temps.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
- 13 years ago