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Fill>start new layer from(lower left or nearest)
Jitter>if on, will vary the start point
by
Dirty Steve
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General
don't use oozebane
Fill>infill overlap for infill gaps (lower number is more overlap)
Dimension>filament retraction settings(retraction distance should be around 1mm)
Speed>main flowrate and perimeter flowrate(reduce values)
Reduce extruder temperature. Experiment with this.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
1. Too high temp, too much material extruded. Ooze.
2. Ooze
3. Ooze
4. Looks like a bit too much extrusion
5. Nozzle priming at start of print. Infill not meeting perimeter is backlash or infill overlap.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Tesla3D certainly seems WAY too invested in a low quality shoddy failed business, and a printer that ISN'T a revolution or even works.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
this is ridiculous.....
Japica didn't come out with anything feasable............and a telescoping z-axis, even if it was mechanically possible, would certainly not change the world or the game. Even if the thing actually could print, even if you did have 'computer problems', you would have to be an idiot to Kickstart a 'functioning' product without actual footage. I personally would never buy a
by
Dirty Steve
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General
FINALLY someone that actually knows about backlash, and that doesn't say 'tighten the belts'!!!!
This gives me a warm fuzzy.....
Have had several arguments about this, and usually you can't convince people of something they didn't find on Google.
I'm a French model.....
by
Dirty Steve
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General
I still can't believe they got posted on 3ders.org. I feel VERY certain we will not see a printing video of this printer design, ever, let alone next week.
Just watched the Kickstarter video again, it's just painful to watch. "we reinvented the wheel"!!
Can someone tell me just what is it about 3D printing that makes these types of people and 'companies' come crawling out of the wood work? It'
by
Dirty Steve
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General
@Traumflug
Backlash Wiki
backlash can be minimized, but not eliminated mechanically. A zero-backlash mechanical system would not be movable.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
You speak plenty of 3D printing rhetoric, you've said you'll post printing videos since the Kickstart but then keep making excuses, and blaming Windows for your lack of photos and video......I'm VERY sure you can shoot a video with an iPhone and have it posted to Youtube in a matter of minutes.... please stop bringing your family into this subject, this is about your product and lack of documenta
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Judging by the wobbly wobbly stop motion Z extension, I doubt this is a currently functional design.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
It is impossible to mechanically remove backlash 100% in a reversing mechanical system
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Maybe just a few degrees lower temp, depending on your results with the .5mm extrusion width.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Set the default extrusion width to the same value as the size of your nozzle.
You are getting a .58mm wall because the auto-calculated extrusion width is wrong. If it is auto-calculated to .7mm then the gcode will only make a single pass in a 1mm wall. If you have a .5mm nozzle, set the default extrusion to .5mm, and you will get two extruder passes in a 1mm wall. 1/.5=2 as 1/.7=1.4286. At a set
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Or if you want to really go big, it's a matter of how deep your pockets are and your engineering skills.
HUGE nozzle, recycled refrigerator liners, no heated bed or fans.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Here is a video of a larger printer, even if you can keep the base from warping, you will very likely have many other issues.
Note the HUGE delamination gaps in the sides of the print.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
.2mm is the upper layer height limit for a .25mm nozzle. If you don't mind the print time increase, drop down to a .15mm layer.
.1mm is my most used layer height.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Higher temp, slower speed. Been using a .25mm for about 5 months. If you can set up an enclosure for your printer, it will help greatly.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
You can get your scale to be pretty accurate, but from what I've seen in my prints, size and print shape will cause the dimensions to vary due to the way the material cools. I.E. the settings for a correct 25mm cube are likey to vary from a 100mm cube.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
I'm going to say backlash....a not so popular answer, but from all the CNC people I know(several old and new school), backlash is impossible to eliminate 100% mechanically. Even the littlest bit can have this effect from my personal experience with my Mendel variant. I'm running .02mm x and y. I can print very accurate gears with backlash compensation, out-of-round without.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
No.
If you are extruding a width of .5mm, a 1mm wall would be two nozzle passes to fill, If scaled to 2mm, your gcode would still only contain the original two passes to fill at 1mm. So scaled by hardware to 2mm would now have a 1mm gap between the two passes.
Extrusion width would increase a bit with extruder scaling but you couldn't push enough filament to double the width and height.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Other than changing from a 1.75 to a 3mm extruder, which would have completely different slicer settings, I'd say you are way better off with a single E step value, and having separate slicing profiles for your filaments and tweak the extruder flow rate for each. Changing E step for each would just be adding an additional variable to getting a correct flow rate.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
I bake the blue line at around 200F for 2 or 3 hours.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
The only slicer that I have seen with actual bridging control is Skeinforge. It will bridge across a gap with straight passes, not the diagonal infill pattern. You can also change the feed rate and extruder flow rate on bridge passes.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
(delete)......point taken
by
Dirty Steve
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General
What type of nylon are you printing with? I don't think nylon bridges well at all.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
For 1.75mm filament, the interior hole should be 2mm. If the hole is 3mm I don't know that 3mm filament will feed thru it either. maybe worth a try, but that is still a much too long melt zone. The PTFE liner I use is 4mm o.d. with 2mm i.d. You might be able to find 3mm o.d. to line it with or get some 4mm and drill the hole larger in your hot end.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Does the PTFE extend down inside the brass or just butt up against it in the wood block?
If not, you've got a BAD hot end design and will have to source another. That looks more like some homebrew repstrap hot end design. My hot end has PTFE liner clear down to about 5 mm from the nozzle exit hole, creating a short melt zone, which is what you want. If the melt zone is the length of the whole t
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Temperature varied with generic brands, can only find blue and a semi-clear that will run in a 1.75mm hot end, 210 to 240, no clogs with a 0.25 nozzle, no pops during print after oven baking.
Printed about 10 degrees below popping and smoking a little. Material bubbles if too hot.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Is there a PTFE liner in your hotend?
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
I can't think of a reason to bring the nozzle to temp before inserting filament. My extruder is always loaded with filament before turning on the hot end, that is the norm.
If your Techzone hot end is like the one on the Wiki page with an oak insulator(what?) there is not a PTFE liner in the nozzle so you are instantly fighting a bad hot end design because the filament with melt to the inside of
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
