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For a first build I would suggest a printer design that is actually finalized.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
250 C is also a bit on the hot side for ABS. A lower temp will help with blobbing, and oozing in general. I'm usually around 220-230 for regular printing, 210 for slow/small/detail printing.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
apparently you don't like honest reviews....
by
Dirty Steve
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General
If I 50% disassembled my machine, it would fit in a much smaller box than that.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
There would be a vast gap between individual print quality, general public expectation, delivered piece. I doubt the person that printed a part wants to pay for shipping, in hopes that it is what the buyer wants or expects, and then may or may not be payed for it.
Then throw in a customer need for dimensional accuracy.......
Question: Do you yourself own a 3D printer?
Who would be responsible
by
Dirty Steve
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General
It's not about your printer as much as it is your ego and nothing to back it up with. There is hardly any photos of printed or machined parts in the blog. If your machine was all that, people would be building it...........
If it was all that, you yourself would not be moving on to a different design.......
Your kickstart failure has nothing to do with open source.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
down to .05 with a Prusa,
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Has anyone printed with or know of anyone printing with PET?
Searched a bit but haven't found anything.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
I've only ever got that pattern with a loose set screw, don't know what else could cause it.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
If it was all that, it would have been funded. Note the lack of examples or a photo gallery to back the claim. And from what I can read, it's still in a beta format.
"Given that the KickStarter did so poorly, I had forgotten an important detail — I have created a robot that is far better than anything that currently exists. It may not sell, but it works amazingly well." ~ Imran
um, yeah, sure,
by
Dirty Steve
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General
spam spam spam eggs and spam.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
of little concern
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Thanks Gary. It's only intended as a one off. 90% of the parts have been machined in some way or another, labor and tool intensive to make.
by
Dirty Steve
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Look what I made!
Here's my take on a filament extruder, waiting on a new drive motor.
Fil-A-Mental Extruder
by
Dirty Steve
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Look what I made!
No problem, I add a very small amount of superglue between my motor shaft and toothed pully to prevent the set screw from working it's way loose but not so much that the pully can't be removed if needed.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
You've got a loose set screw on one of your belt drive pulleys. I've seen this pattern several times on my printer. The pulley is most likely slipping on the motor shaft, but not completely spinning due to the flat spot on the shaft that the set screw contacts.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
I understand your frustration, but there are many sites for different printers that are nothing but BS, attempting to market a printer that isn't even fully built or tested and never go anywhere, often by people that have never built a working printer or even worked with a 3D printer before.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
I believe your expetations of people and the real world are far too high......
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Try Skeinforge from the original source of the software:
Pretty much any other source of Skeinforge is a modified version.
I have had issues with modified versions of SF, like the Sfact version support plugin had been modified and would create support on the top of sliced models. Replaced with Fabmetheus support plugin and problem solved.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
You can't expect everyone to have their s*** together.
And well, just because someone designed or built something does not mean they are professional or competent.
I recently had a graphic job with a self-proclaimed automotive design company. I have never worked with such idiots. The graphic designer of your company should not be more mechanically knowledgeable than your 'engineers'. 100% failu
by
Dirty Steve
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General
I believe all of the printer designs can print as well as or as bad as any other printer design. For the most part alot of the printers are using the same mechanical components of bearings, belts, pulleys, linear rods, just in various frames and configurations.
With all printers, the print platform needs to be level at all corners with the the print nozzle.
For polycarbonate you are getting in
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
It's either your Python install, or your version of Skeinforge.
You need Python version 2.7.3, and I have been using Skeinforge 50 without any issues. That file slices and saves with no errors.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Can you post the .stl you are trying to slice?
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Pretty unlikely. I have paused mid print to change filament, but over night the part would cool, probably detach from the bed, and if it doesn't detach the Z height would be off due to shrinkage from cooling.
I've ran 48 hour prints unattended.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
I moved away from Slic3r due to bugs in subsequent releases, but version 0.7.2b still seems to be the only stable version.
The teeth should have the same profile on both sides.
Maybe try KISSlicer? Been getting really good prints from it.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
hairspray works well on glass, you certainly shouldn't need to use an actual spray adhesive, soulds like a mess to clean up.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
I know I have seen some ink pens with a bigger ink tube than a BIC. I got a bag of assorted brass scrap from a hobby store. 3mm O.D. 2mm I.D. If you are in the US, a Do-It-Center type hardware store sells hobby brass tube and sheet.
I have my brass about 4 mm extended into the thermal barrier to help guide the filament and align the hot end. It was a slip fit into the extruder, but I glued it so
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
I run a piece of 2mm I.D. brass tubing and super glue it in place. I would imagine just about any material with a 2mm I.D. would work, maybe the empty part of an ink tube from a pen?
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Don't cut so deep with the round file, I've had luck around 1 mm deep. Then cut with the tap, with cutting oil. It is hard to get the cut started. I probably have the bolt turn about 20 times. When the cut is good you should be able to get the bolt to turn with the tap with less pressure than when cutting.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
AAAAAARRRGHHH!!!! - 13 years ago