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@waitaki
I like your design! Really like your Y axis single idler pulley mod. I have had some warping with my 1/4" oak parts.
I also ran alot of pen plots to trouble shoot mechanical issues durring my build while waiting on bits and pieces.
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Dirty Steve
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General
It's all in the settings and printer, from my printer the print quality results are reverse of your results. I get much better results with SF. Recently using KISSlicer mostly, really good results for me.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
I can tell from your file sizes those are low poly game models.
these files are a few thousand polys short of any real level detail.
Most all models ripped from games are going to be very low poly.
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Dirty Steve
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General
I get something like that when I get dust or debris partially blocking the nozzle tip or from cheap filament hitting a thinner section in the supply spool.
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Dirty Steve
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General
I think that layer height with 4 decimal places is hard for printers to mechanically handle.
From my printing with a .25mm, a .20mm layer is about the max a .25mm nozzle can handle cleanly. Reprap calculator suggest a .15mm layer.
I normally print at .10mm for quality, .20mm for speed.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Turn off Infill in Direction of Bridge under Inset, and at the bottom of the Fill tab bump surrounding angle up to 90.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Are you planning on addressing your machines Z-wobble? The prints in your photo gallery are reject prints by my standards.
by
Dirty Steve
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For Sale
I use KISSlicer and Skeinforge, but I would slice with either Slic3r 7.2b (very stable) or the latest release of Slic3r outside of Repetier, and import that gcode to print.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Scale in your slicing software should be 100%, maybe a percent or 2 more if you are correcting for shrinkage. For ABS I print anything I need to mechanically fit to a pre-existing manufactured part at 101% XYZ.
As far as I have seen, all slicing software is in millimeters. Maybe you are going from inches to mm somewhere in your process?
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Dirty Steve
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General
I based it on a Prusa Mendel model that is on GrabCad, .
Downsized by 75% and re-dimensioned a bit with 3DS Max and modified components to be constructed from 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" red oak.
After getting it going, got rid of the T5 belts for GT2s, switched from RepRap aluminum Z-couplers to printed ones, got rid of the bottom Z threaded rod bearings, and extended the Z axis to 225mm.
Running a
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Dirty Steve
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General
Why does it seem that so many of these start up companies are trying to sell a printer that they haven't even built or if they have built it, it prints like crap?
Compared to what I get out of my Mendel, every print in their gallery are reject prints to me.
Nice Z wobble they have going there. If I was to buy someone elses pre-assembled or kit printer it damn well better have ZERO Z wobble.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Thanks, prints fairly well after alot of tweaks and some upgrades. 160x175x225 build area after Z extension.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Having built a wooden Mendel, by the time you get the wood pieces made out of half way decent wood, time and energy wise you're not saving much, if at all over the price of a plastic set.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
I've had that problem with Slicr. I was getting nozzle ooze between position jumps. I've had better results with KISSlicer. KISSlicers support material is fairly easy to remove when dialed in.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Looks like you dropped a motor step during printing. That causes the offset in your print and occurs randomly. Check belt binding/rubbing, axis bearing binding, gear set screws, and you may need to turn up your motor current a little.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
You can get better thin wall infill if you manually set the default extrusion width to be equal to the nozzle diameter under print settings\advanced\default extrusion width.
It is also relative to your nozzle diameter and wall thickness. Example not accounting for overlap, if you have a 1.4 mm wall and a .5mm nozzle, the perimeter would be 2x.5=1 mm leaving .4 mm that is too small to fill with a
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Stepper motors recieve current when not turning to hold the motors position. They are not like DC motors.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
I don't think it's a good thing to power up your drivers without motors attached.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
I put a drop of superglue between the end of the shaft and pulley after mounting the pulley, and a little on the set screw.
From the end of the shaft, the glue will capillary inbetween the shaft and pulley.
This has kept my pulleys tight, and isn't too glued to take the pulley off if necessary. Superglue doesn't overly adhere to the smooth metal of the motor shaft, but is enough to lock down th
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Dirty Steve
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General
On my Mendel variant, the only way to get correct overlap consistant around a complete circle is correct backlash compensation, reguardless of slicing software.
Even if you do get the infill to overlap the perimeter all the way around a circle, it will not be a consistant overlap without backlash compensation.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Would need a grooved bearing or filament guide to keep the filament in proper alignment.
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Dirty Steve
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General
In SF, overlap should be set between 0.7 and 1. The lower the number, the greater the overlap.
On the other printer, I'd test with a correct overlap value. Infill not touching the perimeter is usually a backlash problem.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Thanks Petrus, that will get me headed in the right direction.
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Dirty Steve
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Look what I made!
Tip looks ok. I usually place a piece of 400 grit sand paper on my bed and move the nozzle back and forth a few times so that the tip is flat with the bed.
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Dirty Steve
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General
I'm not sure but I think I read that PLA is not as good as ABS for small detail.
What does the tip of your nozzle look like? Top finishing should be much smoother than what your pics show.
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Dirty Steve
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General
What chip is your stepper driver? I can get a pulse with a 555 at various speeds and I'm trying to hook it to a ULN2003. I'm getting motor current but no rotation on bipolar or unipolar motors. The ULN2003 circuits I can find are 4 input, but it looks like I need to find a 2 input circuit.
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Dirty Steve
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Look what I made!
Much smaller than a .25mm nozzle will clog with household dust. Every now and then, but not often, I have to clear a small blockage from my .25mm, even with a feed filament wiper.
Not to mention the print time increases as the nozzle diameter goes down. A 1mm wall would be 2 passes for a .5mm and 4 passes for a .25mm.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
I'm running a Wildseyed type hot end with a mig welder tip so changing my nozzle shape has been fairly easy.
From printing and testing with a .25mm nozzle and .1mm layers, I've gotten much better quality with a 'sharp' nozzle that is 3x the width of the nozzle hole. So for a .25mm nozzle, the tip is around .75 to 1 mm wide. See attached image.
I haven't gone sharper than this but I think a too
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Dirty Steve
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General
The shape of the tip of your nozzle can also affect fine detail quality. Can you post a close-up pic of your nozzle as well?
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Dirty Steve
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General
What driver board are you using? I'm looking for a way to forward/reverse speed control a 1:56 geared bi-polar stepper for a filament extruder I'm working on.
Is the circuit schematic correct at SW2 with the step connecting to ground?
Is pin 1 on the 555 grounded, and pin 8 5v+?
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Dirty Steve
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Look what I made!
bigger 3d printer for 800 $ with multimaterials with 6 months warranty