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The GT2 belts will help. I recently switched from T5 as well.
Stringing is usually caused noozle ooze. Maybe lower your temperature a little. One thing that would help Slic3r would be if they added a wipe function. KISSlicer and Skeinforge that will wipe the nozzle inside the print before moving to another print area. Maybe if your extruder gears have a lot of play between each other it could be
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Dirty Steve
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General
I did have a set of helical cut aluminum couplers. They were designed for 5mm motor shaft and 8mm rod, but being in the US, I'm using 5/16" rod, so the couplers would not correctly center the rod to the motor shaft.
I ended up printing a rigid set of couplers and that almost completely removed Z-wobble on my machine.
It's a little hard to see in the first photo but are you getting an offset in
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Dirty Steve
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General
Looks like Z-wobble.
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Dirty Steve
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General
I have had some luck with FRP(fiberglass reinforced panel) with Nylon weed trimmer line. Great adhesion, but the material pulls so hard that it warps the panel.
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Dirty Steve
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General
@xclusive585
ABS print
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Dirty Steve
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General
Have any pics? I'm running a .25mm nozzle, .1mm layer, and getting pretty good detail. The fingers in this image are about .6-.75mm.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Skeinforge allows you to set the extruder flow rate for support seperate from the printing flow rate as well as feedrate, which helps in easy removal.
KISSlicer support is not too bad but the flow rate is the same as the print, but you can set feedrate for support seperately.
I first did tests with a simple sphere to work out the setting like support angle, and support gap from object. I've bee
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Dirty Steve
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General
Glad to hear that Bob.
I think SF is the only slicer with backlash compensation. Didn't research much about firmware backlash.
With the alloy pulleys, the belt would actually tighten and slack as it would align and mis-align with the pulley. I would imagine you would get different numbers if measuring from a different axis position. When I had T5 belts on mine, I could see the belt humping up
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Dirty Steve
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General
Was able to clean up the step signal a bit with a better timer capacitor on my TB6560 board.
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Dirty Steve
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Mach3
Any luck Bob?
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Dirty Steve
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General
cubehero.com is looking interesting.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Being taken over by Makerbot........who needs 1000's of frigging I(diot)Phone cases??
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Dirty Steve
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General
I had a set of T5 aluminum pulleys, they were kind of junk, switched to GT2 belts, and printed my own pulleys.
No idea at all on the extra negative move travel, could be a bad match between those pulleys and belts.
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Dirty Steve
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General
You should get 10mm on your dial indicator moving from X80 to X90. If not, your steps/mm is off. This makes calculating backlash more complicated. Don't know what would cause more indicated movement from X90 to X80. Make sure your probe on your dial indicator is parallel to your axis. A few degrees of angle can throw off measurements or slightly bind your dial indicator.
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Dirty Steve
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General
looks like you are printing too hot, you should not have scorching in the material like in part1_.jpg.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
jamesdanielv Wrote:
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> Dirty Steve: backlash in 3d printing slows down
> the print around corners because before changing
> direction, the axis must stop, over compensate for
> the new direction, then move back, then in the new
> direction.
It doesn't go that way at all, maximum +X position, backlash correction, -X move. Backl
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Dirty Steve
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General
1. Depends on the overall structure of the model. You generally do not want internal walls.
2. Depends on your nozzle diameter and layer thickness. Slicing does not calculate for moving parts, you need to model with mechanical clearances.
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Dirty Steve
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General
@jamesdanielv
Backlash doesn't hide anything, it is a compensation for slack in a reversing mechanical system. Backlash correction does not slow when approaching a corner.
Backlash correction only happens when an axis reverses direction, not when approaching a maximum axis position.
Example: gcode square move
G1 X0 Y0
G1 X0 Y10
G1 X10 Y10
G1 X10 Y0 (backlash takes slack out of Y)hidden Y -.02
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Dirty Steve
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General
Don't know about Marlin backlash compensation, sure it's in the forum some where.
You can generate gcode from Skeinforge with backlash correction using the Lash module.
Set up your dial indicator to measure your X axis. In Repetier host go to manual control. You want to pre-load the axis by moving in the meassurement direction before zeroing your dial indicator.
For example: manual send gcode
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Dirty Steve
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General
It's backlash. That is why it shows up in the same place reguardless of slicing software. Tighter belts will not eliminate it.
I fought the same problem for about a month trying to print a Wade's extruder. Backlash compensation corrected the problem.
It shows up because one side of the hole is approached moving in a positive axis direction, while the other side of the hole is approached in a ne
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Dirty Steve
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General
Are you running backlash compensation?
I'm running Mach3 so I have no idea how to correct for backlash with Marlin or Sprinter firmware.
There is a Lash module in Skeinforge for backlash correction.
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Dirty Steve
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General
You do not want to restrain the free ends of the rods, that was contributing to my wobble as well as the aluminum couplers I was using that were designed for 5mm motor shaft and 8mm threaded rod, but I am running 5/16" threaded rods so the tightened coupler would not center the threaded rod to the motor shafts. Modelled and printed my own couplers for 5mm to 5/16".
Yes you do need the nozzle dia
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
Looks like you are getting Z-wobble on your vertical faces. Just fixed this on my Mendel printer.
What kind of couplers are you using on your threaded rods? Do you have the ends of threaded rods opposite the motors and couplers restrained?
What software are you using to slice with? If you are using Slic3r, set your extrusion width the same as your nozzle diameter to get a better solid fill.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
I had a PLA printed extruder and gear set melt down as well, just from the extruder motor being at 60-65C.
They did last long enough to print ABS replacements.
Go for ABS parts, and I would go with base legs that are not hollowed out like your PLA ones.
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Dirty Steve
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General
First off, acrylic is a bad matterial to attach a heated bed to, will definetly warp with heat, source an aluminum plate. Heated bed should be mounted with springs to the bed. I have a 5-7mm gap between my heated bed and aluminum plate, with automotive firewall insullation in between the aluminum and heated bed.
Thermal expansion is unavoidable, hot end lenthens with heat as well. zero your nozz
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
clear material quickly becomes clouded as minute air pockets are trapped, even with 100% infill. Would depend on the shape of your part.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
have you run into a stair stepping pattern in arcs and circles? I can make it worse with CV settings but have not been able to eliminate it completely.
You can see it in this pic, mostly on the stomach of the blue pink panther woman in the background. Vertical pattern.
Got some tips from the Mach3 support forum, but still getting the pattern in my prints.
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Dirty Steve
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Mach3
I run a small piece of brass tubing sleeve, available at most hardware/hobby stores, with an i.d. of 2mm in my extruder below the hobbed bolt to help guide 1.75mm filament. Running a .25mm nozzle. The hobbed bolt will start to tear the ABS on my setup if there is a nozzle clog. Never get a kink.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
