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a gun is just a tool, PEOPLE are inherently evil......give a death row inmate a pencil or an ink pen and see what they can do with it.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Looking for some Constant Velocity tips from Mach3 users.
by
Dirty Steve
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Mach3
it's backlash, no other solution. Fix it in the firmware, or with Skeinforge that has a backlash compensation.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
the infamous 'Z-Wobble' would NOT do this in a print, no matter how bad it is.
Z-wobble would shift the layer to one side but NOT overhang a complete layer all the way around the perimeter.
Layer smash maybe, but not wobble.
What kind of couplers are you running on your Z-axis? Z motors on top or bottom of your printer?
It looks like your couplers are torque/spring loading and unloading durin
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
too hot for pla, extrusion multiplier should be around 1.00 +/-, if your E-steps/mm is correct, extrusion width should be 100%
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
A cooling fan would help too, you are not getting enough cooling time between layers.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
That looks like you have skirt/brim turned on then.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Is that just the first layer?
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
I would say you are printing too hot/fast and extruding too much material in both colors. Your prints can be MUCH better. No offense but those are reject quality prints to me.
Rarely do the print setting for on color work exaclty right for another color, even if they are from the same supplier. I use Skeinforge and have seperate profiles for each color and layer thickness I print. Slightly diffe
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Avoid T5 belts, the teeth are so far apart that the belt 'humps' up and down when the teeth pass over the X and Y idler bearings.
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Skeinforge is well worth learning to use. Gave up on Slic3r, till they get it together, maybe.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
What do you have your printer setting on? Sounds like you are getting some vibration noise amplification.
I have my printer setting on rubber feet, reduces noise greatly, but my motors are not as loud at any speed.
Your acceleration values are very high in comparison to mine.
For a feedrate of 200mm/s I have an acceleration of 100mm/s.
Try a max. acceleration of 250mm/s2 for your 500mm/s fee
by
Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Can you show me some math on that? By that figuring, a 5 mm diameter gear, if the belt is tight enough, in one revolution is going to move as far as a 10 mm diameter gear with a loose belt. That doesn't figure. My belts are equally tensioned anyway.
So what about a toothless belt on a grooved pully? The diameter of the pully directly determines the distance of travel in one revolution.
by
Dirty Steve
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Mechanics
Sounds like you need a spool holder with bearings, so the spool can actually rotate while the material is being pulled in by your extruder, eliminating the twisting.
Are you printing from a spool, or just coiled material?
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
You are retracting too much, causing the nozzle to pause too long, which blobs the print. Did the print you posted in your other post about the vertical banding have these blobs? Don't think the pic you posted there had these.
When you retract, you are really only relieving pressure in your hot end, not actually pulling material back in at the tip.
My settings for a layer height of .05mm only h
by
Dirty Steve
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General
There are alot of extruder speeds between 1 and 1.2. Your correct extruder value looks to be between these two values. You need to dial it in. Run a 1.1 test and go from there.
Go up or down from 1.1 if it is too much or too little. Next half at 1.05 or 1.15 for the next test depending on 1.1 result. Then 1.025, 1.075, 1.125, or 1.175, depending on your 1.05 or 1.15 print.
You need to go out to
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
Looks pretty bulky for a Ben Heck design.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
that would go well with my Wildseyed Mig tip nozzle.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Currently thinking this idea is beyond the structural capabilities of abs, I'll be hitting 1gb gcode even with .05 mm layers.
I guess half the thickness of a piece of paper will have to do.........
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Current model sliced at .05mm, runnning 10mm/s infill, 5mm/s perimeter, runs around 22 hrs. Simpler model than where I am headed.
Estimate full scale about 44 hrs. Sliced to .01 layer we'll say 200 hrs for a print. Maybe able to speed that up, would depend on final surface quality at this layer thickness and how subsequent layers affect previous layers.
Time is not an issue, going for detail, n
by
Dirty Steve
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General
What's about the largest gcode file anyone has run?
Looking at setting up a machine with a .1mm nozzle for .01mm layers.
Rough calculation of what I am getting at .05 layers, looking at 500mb+ gcodes for .01mm layers.
Models I am printing at half scale are pushing close to 2 million lines of code at .05mm, about 50mb.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
@ radus
Belt tension does not affect steps, only backlash/slop. The belts could be a mile long, the diameter of the drive gear is a constant. With equal stepps I get mechnical dimensional accuracy, but not when printing.
@martinprice2004
No firmware here, running Mach3 and a TB6560 driver board, and it's an awsome setup because I can run as a CNC mill, an engraver, a vinyl cutter, a pen plotte
by
Dirty Steve
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Mechanics
Chasing that in my prints as well. What size belts are you running?
Got some advice last week to switch to GT2 belts and gears from the T5 ones I am running now. I can see the belt 'humping' over each tooth on the gear and idle pulleys during printing.
Can't confirm yet, new belts on order.
by
Dirty Steve
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Printing
I've taken out my own stiches once, so does that make me a bit of a surgeon?
It looks like you haven't even edited together two seperate pieces of footage.
Check.....check....
I'm certainly not speaking from a place of any skill, knowledge, experience, ability, or vision.......
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Thinking my belts are garbage, cheap white ones off ebay, steal reinforced.
There looks like there is alot of slop in the gear/belt tooth interface.
Wouldn't diameter also affect travel?
If you have the same number of teeth on two gears, but one with narrower teeth and less diameter that still engages the belt would travel less distance in one revolution due to diameter difference reguardless
by
Dirty Steve
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Mechanics
Just wanted to know if anyone else has a step difference like this for X and Y.
by
Dirty Steve
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Mechanics
video blogs in your bedroom and bad karaoke lipsink does not bring you any where even close to being a film maker.........offended as a graduate with a degree in film and photography.....
Reality check, check, is this thing on?
by
Dirty Steve
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General
That's the thing, I know it's not right.
No loose belt, no loose grub screws,not missing a step in a 20hr print, low backlash at .03 on X, and .09 on Y.
As stated, when I first set up my machine with a dial indicator, X and Y steps/mm are equal, and I can draw with a pen mounted to correct physical dimensions. I can set my machine right back to this step value, and get correct dimensions in a p
by
Dirty Steve
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Mechanics
I'm running a Prusa Mendel variant, with T5 belts.
To get my machine dimensionally calibrated, I'm runnning different steps/mm on my Y and X axises.
65 steps/mm on X, 62 steps/mm on Y. Same belts, same gears, same motors.
Is anyone running with a steps/mm difference like this?
When I first set up my machine, I calibrated with a dial indicator, and steps were something like 64.xxx for X and Y.
by
Dirty Steve
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Mechanics
