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Limited z-axis due to gantry, (from your CNC router table reference earlier) not going to get any kinda of speed with a nema 17 on that large of a printer, doubt that a Printrbot board is going to handle a nema 23 or higher, you are not going to run CNC or laser gcode through a firmware based controller.
MPCNC - $450
aluminum bed - $250
heater - $200
And $$$ for ALL the pieces and parts, dual ex
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Dirty Steve
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General
How can you price something you haven't even built one of yet? You seem to miss alot of the finer points of 3d printing, but you seem to already mark it as a success.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Well, best of luck, you seem to be at your budget limit with just the build plate.
by
Dirty Steve
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General
Different controllers and stepper drivers can induce more or less 'wave' in the print depending on how clean the drive signal they output is.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Those would reduce resonance. You could probably get away with 1/4 or 1/8 microstepping without too much processor demand, depending on your setup. I'm running 0.9 degree (400 step/rev) motors at 1/16 microstep without issues.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Yes, a 4000 step per revolution motor would do that. Gear reduced motors would decrease the wave pattern in relation to the gear ratio.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Toothed idler pulleys won't remove your waves. It's caused by resonance in the stepper motor, that correlates to driver amperage, and motor rotation degrees per rotation.
I chased this issue for 2 years, toothed pulleys, flipped belts, yadda... Changed from 1.8 to 0.9 degree motors, and the wave pattern in my prints became half the size of the 1.8 motors. Regardless of microstepping, steppers ha
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
So, I'm curious who in the U.S. did you tell you could build a machine for this cost? What are they paying YOU?
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Dirty Steve
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General
How are you going to get that build volume from this machine? You are going to be limited on the Z axis by the Z rod assembly.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
I've tried some generic conductive ABS, but it isn't conductive enough to electroplate. I'm looking for highly conductive, low resistance filament that can be electroplated without spraying with conductive paint or graphite.
This print was done with graphite, but the bond is weak between the print and the plating.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
It happens when you have scratches in your glass. The heating/cooling stresses the glass at a scratch, and a print over that scratch can break out chips. I've had ABS do the same thing.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
You should turn off your extruder and heated bed instead of going to standby temp. Your machine is waiting for the temps to drop.
You could also place your park at end of job before M104 and M140 so that the print head moves off the print before waiting for the temp drop.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
most likely you are over-extruding all together. Your infill may look under, but it's ridges caused by the hot end moving thru too much material.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
no need to drop hot end temp, fan is optional.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
drop your bed temp after the first layer by 20 or 30 degrees
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
the theory is fine, but in reality, it isn't.
I've done filament runs with recycled prints. There is the very real problem of contaminates in the recycled material. Dust, hair, bits of tape, glue stick, flakes of hairspray, etc. These are enough to clog even a .5mm nozzle.
I have run my filament extruder with a screen mesh filter between the feed screw and the output nozzle. While this did redu
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Dirty Steve
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General
I'll stick with my several years of experience, from making my own, and working with manufactured nozzles. I get the best print and surface quality with a tip that is approximately 3 times wide as the nozzle diameter, i.e. a .75mm tip, for a .25mm nozzle.
This way you are only passing over the width of a single extruder pass with the following pass, not dragging across several previous extruder
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
The first nozzle is a better design. The second nozzle with the broad tip will cause issues, it will lift and drag percentage infill, as the flat drags across previously printed material.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
Going in from the top didn't give as good of results for me. I'd say maybe 2 or 3 ounces of acetone, varies with paper towel thickness.
I roached a pair of glass with hot vapor, and did some surface damage to my IR thermometer. Cold is much more workable for me and much less volatile.
Cold is also less aggressive with finer details. I've seen print sagging with hot.
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Dirty Steve
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General
I clear partial nozzle clogs with a piece of wire pulled from a brass wire brush held with a pair of needle nose pliers and the nozzle at temp. Just make sure the wire is smaller than the nozzle.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
Printing speeds?
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
Hours for cold polish? It takes 40 minutes, if you leave it without checking on the progress, dries overnight. Unused metal paint can, completely lined with doubled up paper towels, held in place with magnets, soaked with acetone right to the limit the paper towels can hold. ABS part set on a sheet of glass, and the metal paint can inverted and placed over the part. DO NOT check the part in the 4
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Dirty Steve
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General
yup, YOU solved the whole problem...........
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Dirty Steve
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General
physically move the axis.
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Dirty Steve
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General
I can't justify it thru math, i just know it's the degree of the steppers. Been printing for over 2 years, took a year for me to solve.
If you move the x axis by hand one 'click', it should match the pattern spacing.
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Dirty Steve
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General
It is not the belt teeth, but the degrees of the stepper motors. I had this in my prints and chased it down to motors, went from T5 to GT2 belts, no change, tried belt flip trick, no change, tried toothed idler pulleys, no change, swapped 1.8 degree for 0.9 degree steppers----exactly doubled the pattern! Dropped stepper driver current a low as I could without dropping steps and practically comple
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Dirty Steve
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General
that's not from belt teeth, it's from overpowered drivers and acceleration settings.
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Dirty Steve
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General
plate glass is not a good bed material
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
You definitely do not want to sand your glass. I've had glass chip out just from single fine scratch on the surface.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
Your layer heights are too thick for your 0.4mm nozzle. Your layer height should not be more than 75% of your nozzle size, 80% max.
Does look like under-extrusion. There is no reason to change calibration, just up the extrusion multiplier value.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing