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I'd do some searching on that, I think the lead screws setting on the shafts reduces the flex machined into the couplers. The ball bearing acts as a pivot. I think you want some compression, just not completely compressed. I'm out of suggestions as to what could be causing it.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
Is the spring part of the couplers collapsed from the weight of the X carriage? I have top mounted motors on my machine, but I recall a tread somewhere about placing a 4mm ball bearing inside the couplers, to space the lead screw off on the end of the motor shaft, and to expand the flex part of the couplers.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
What kind of motor couplers do you have on your Z axis lead screws? Top or bottom mounted motors? Pic?
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
Am I missing something with .stl export from Slic3r? I can't open .stl file created by Slic3r with any software, and the exported file crashes out on import into Slic3r.
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Dirty Steve
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Slic3r
It could just be your hobbed bolt. Double check that your hot end assembly doesn't have any wobble in it's mount.
Is the Artifacts.jpg print you posted single wall?
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
I'm not understanding how you would decouple the x carriage from the lead screws.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
I'm referring to a bearing on the end of your lead screws, opposite end from your Z motors (see photo), if your setup has them, not the attachment to your X carriage.
I make my own hobbed bolts, I had one that was 'out of round' like yours, correcting that was my final Z artifact fix on my printer. It causes different amounts of material flow.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
you definitely want your hobbed bolt to be better than that.
If you have restraining bearing on your Z axis threaded rods, remove them.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
I believe your thermistor tables are off. @280c most hot ends are going to melt, and most ABS will be over-cooked and brittle.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
I'm printing on glass with hair spray, a layer of glue stick, and no bed heat. Also helps to print with a 2-5mm brim.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
Your video looks fairly normal for extrusion. I would take a very fine sand paper to the tip. With the end mounted bring the nozzle down to .1 to .15mm on the sand paper, very light pressure, and give the sand paper a couple drags across the nozzle tip, you could have a small burr in the brass at the tip.
Have you had successful prints with this nozzle? layer heights you are trying to print and
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
Set your extrusion width down to 0.35, same as your nozzle diameter, you may need to reduce the extrusion rate a little, but you will get much better results from slic3r.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
1. Looks like a dropped step in Z layer change.
2. Is most likely from your heated bed, turn it off for PLA and print on painters tape.
3. That looks like what ever slicer you are using is not set to the correct extrusion width for your nozzle. Slic3r? Set Print Settings>Advenced>Default extrusion width manually to 0.4.mm. Slic3r is not completely correct in auto extrusion width calculation
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
What I want is PET like plastic bottles are make of, melting point closer to 260C, not these lower temp variants. Have run some shredded bottles through my filament extruder, but is very hard to get consistant diameter, still testing.
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Dirty Steve
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General
In slic3r, under Print Settings\Advanced set your Default extrusion width to 0.35mm, the same as your nozzle size. People will say this isn't the fix, but for me and others it is.
For some printers, slic3r's calculation for auto extrusion width is too wide for what the nozzle is physically doing, which can cause the gaps between passes of the extruder.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
If you stay at 110C for the whole print, you will get in-curved vertical walls. Set it forget it temp of 80C for the whole print with hairspray, or first layer at 110 then drop it to 80 for the rest of the print.
If you are printing tall prints, an enclosed chamber for your printer is your best bet to avoid delamination.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Definitely looking better!
The slight inward curve just above the bottom of your prints can be reduced by dropping your bed temperature to around 80C after your first layer. I print ABS with hairspray on glass at a constant 80C for the whole print.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
I have top mounted Z motors with thick rubber washers and solid printed couplers. I have my motors loosely tightened down so that the motor itself can wobble a little, which greatly reduces Z-wobble in the print. Took me months to get rid of my wobble completely.
Is the end of your threaded rod away from the motor in a retainer bearing or anything? Less wobble also if you let the end of the thre
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
I don't see any issues with your .stl file.
If you've got Z-wobble, you'll never get a smooth print. Can you post a pic or two of your Z motors, rods, and couplers?
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
what type of printer are you using? Looks like you may have some Z-wobble.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
It is related to the 1.8 degree step of most stepper motors, me and several people in my printing group fought with this for a while, flipped belts, toothed idlers, etc. but what reduced it the most was switching to 0.9 step motors, the ripple became exactly half.
It is due to the fact that even with micro-stepping the motors have a 'stronger' tension at it's 1.8 degree positions.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
it's the motors stepping, not the belts, turn down your motor driver currents as much as possible without dropping steps, and print as slow as you can stand to.
Run a print at 10mm/s with everything else the same.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
or you could tune your printer....just a suggestion.
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Dirty Steve
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Printing
Currently test running a Pico, no issues at all so far, no jamming, very compact design. Will be running some Nylon thru it this week.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Depends on if you have an actual J-head or a cheap knock off.
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Dirty Steve
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Reprappers
That brass piece is for a Bowen type extruder, I believe there is a threaded insert that goes where that fitting is to keep a PTFE liner in place for use with a Wades.
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Dirty Steve
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General
I can tell you that is a 1/4" air coupling and a MIG welder tip for a nozzle, not exactly top end materials.
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Dirty Steve
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General
Point A: You will not be able to run at a production pace with a Filastruder or even a room full of them, they are passable on a personal use level, but not for production. I have a filament extruder, when put under 24hr+ run times, failed motors, failed gear drives, failed couplers, failed thrust bearing, snapped an auger in two, and that's just the mechanical side.
Point B: How will you handle
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Dirty Steve
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General
@MrDoctorDIV i highly believe your print temps are not actual temps. If I ran at 270C I'd have a puddle of liquid ABS. Have you ever checked with a IR thermometer? As well, if someone may try to print at the temps you are posting, there are alot of hot-ends out there that would melt down at 270C.
What's your temp reading when you power on the hot end at room temp?
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Dirty Steve
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Mechanics