Sorry, only got a PicKit2 and an Atmel ICE - since microchip bought atmel, is there crossover support ow? I've not touched a Pic for about 5 years, so I fear I'm a bit behind on their tech.by majic79 - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I'm quite tempted to use a piezo sensor, so I'm open to a collaboration on that. Planning to use Marlin as that's the firmware I've got the most experience with and there's already support for the processor. My biggest concern is the arduino library, but there's plenty of capacity in flash, so it may not be too much of an issue. I'll take a look at your project - would be good to at least get suby majic79 - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I've pushed an update up including the I2C interface after a little reshuffling.by majic79 - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
A simple register protocol over I2C should do the trick - sending a 1 to enable the monitoring and then polling for the feedback once the stop is hit is going to be pretty fast. at 400KHz (I2C Fast mode) you're looking at 20 microseconds for that communication to occur (assuming 10 bits of data - enables, addresses, response, stop bit). You could stack or daisychain the boards to add more on sepeby majic79 - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I2C is the easiest to add there, it only needs 2 pins (I have 4 free) and as you say, you need to keep it nearby. If the signal is not too far away you could keep the electronics in range of the board and then just deal with mounting the sensor and routing the wiring. For probing, you could sync the query over the serial bus before stepping - might slow things down a bit, but that seems an acceptby majic79 - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
So I did some validation in LTSpice to try and profile the MOSFET behaviour and discovered that there's no way that it's going to work. After some research, I finally got a working design at a reasonable cost. I have an excess of board space, so I was able to layout discrete components to solve that power issue. I have a new found respect for electronics designers - I lost a lot of time trying tby majic79 - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I'm just going to drop this here and ask what you guys and girls thinkby majic79 - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I've decided to look at further enhancing the work from Traumflug - I love Gen7, but I'd like to have a few more options open to me for dual extrusion. I've got a completely jumperless design based around an STM32L4 MCU (just because I happen to have a smidgen of familiarity with it, and I think I can probably get Marlin going on it). I like to seperate my concerns, so the plan is that this willby majic79 - Developers
I've setup a blog to cover some of my old activities and new ones I have coming up - I've just added one for my own Gen7 implementation:by majic79 - Mendel90
I'd prefer to keep the board seperate from the brains - I quite like using a Pi as my brain - let the board get on and do the printing things. The pi can take photos and get upgrades through the course of its life, independent of the 3D Printer. Prior to the Pi, I had an old laptop that did the job quite well, but I switch to a Pi only when it was no longer able to upgradeby majic79 - Mendel90
QuoteTraumflug For finding out the Gen7 version, look at the copper side. Version number should be etched/milled in there. Yeah, I took your design and replaced a couple of components (used screw terminals instead of the ATX and Molex connectors). I think I ported to KiCad as well and did all my PCB layout there (I've used KiCad longer than I've had a 3D printer, so it was familiar to me at theby majic79 - Mendel90
Thanks - that's quite a rabbithole!by majic79 - CoreXY Machines
Heya! I'm fishing for information, and maybe looking towards my next project. I'm in need of a controller for my next 3D printer (Mendel90) and I'm 95% happy with my home rolled Gen7 board (I did this over 6 years ago for my Foldarap - still going strong). I've got another electronics project on the go, and I'm sort of having regrets now about not going for an ARM32 MCU, but I digress. Thingsby majic79 - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Hi, I've been very happy with the results of my little FoldaRap, but therein lies the problem. It's a bit small. Z-Axis homing takes too long, I'd like to enclose it and maybe heat the enclosure, etc, etc I've long been tempted by D-Bot, and I want to get some ideas from the community if anything's changed in the past few years? What's the "ideal" corexy machine today? Tempt me please - I'm noby majic79 - CoreXY Machines
Hola! Ok, not Spanish, just saying hello I bought a kit off a friend some time ago (he had access to a laser cutter and did a few ally cutouts based on the DiBond Mendel90) and I never planned to run it on a ISO threaded bar - always intended to go to a T8x1 ACME and even had the parts to go with it. Roll on to today and after spending some time getting my foldarap back up and running, I'm fiby majic79 - Mendel90
The key part is less the fuses, and more the clock source. The ceramic oscillators that sanguinololu uses aren't brilliant (compared to a crystal) and the only thing that differs (besides frequency) is the clock drive. Ceramic oscillators are a bit unstable and therefore start faster, but have lower drive values. Crystals are more stable, take a little longer to get going but have very good driveby majic79 - Controllers
Steps per unit is the number of steps required for 1 unit (mm) of motion, for common belt movement, no steps per revolution / (pulley diameter * pi) wil give this figure. If you're full stepping with a 200 step motor, using an 18mm pulley: 200 / (18mm * pi) 200 / 56.5487mm = 3.53 If you're microstepping at 16 micro-steps per step, then multiply the number of steps in your stepper by the numberby majic79 - Controllers
The link above will allow you to calculate precisely, the highest speed that the motor is capable of (and speeds higher than this will see problems occur). The actual maximum will be limited by physical properties (and contrary to the posts earlier) can be calculated precisley, based on mass measurements and then following it up with basic acceleration calculations (a chap called Issac Newton dby majic79 - Controllers
I prefer the Molex SL series - this has wire-to-wire housings (as well as male and female pins) that the KK is missing, and also has a SL-wire-to-KK-board keyed compatible connector as well as plain connectors similar to the imageby majic79 - Controllers
My first build attempt, I got the leadscrew nuts a little too tight and it would bind up after a small amount of printing (mechanical issue - friction heating was enough to cause the rod to elongate enough to bind up solid) also, I miscalculated the steps per unit move, so it only went down half way, but once I recalculated it correctly and seperated the nuts slightly, it all worked fine (i've noby majic79 - FoldaRap
What do you want? I won't tell you what to do, but you started with talking about making a gen7 board - that means cutting a circuit board, drilling holes and soldering it all. There's a couple of ways to do it - the "classical" way (etching a design printed to a mask - making a Printed Circuit Board) and all the chemicals and stages required for that to happen, or milling a board (simpler in somby majic79 - Controllers
When printing solid layers (or using a line or linear pattern infill) it rotates the direction of print by 90 degrees each time - it'd be nice to be able to customise this. Some research has shown that rather than alternating layers, strength of the material can be improved by a small rotation of the weave on each layer: While this is more applicable to compressed weaves (eg. Carbon Fibre), itby majic79 - Slic3r
I'd recommend getting an arduino kit - this can double up as the programmer, so it's not a waste, also handy if you're not that into software (I am, hardware's a secondary thing to me) I cut my own PCB (both Gen7 personal implementation and Heated PCB.) as I have the equipment (I built a lightbox for £30 as a small project before I went down the reprap road), and I'd done some board prototypingby majic79 - Controllers
which X-carriage are you using? The one that runs on two cylindrical rails, or on a single aluminium extrusion? I think the one in sources is designed for foldarap 1.0 and 1.1 (same X-carriage as far as I can tell)by majic79 - FoldaRap
well, I re-tested it last night and it seems to work now - I wonder if it's because it was the first time that slic3r had run (I'd uninstalled a previous version, deleted my .ini files and installed 1.0.0)by majic79 - Slic3r
I'm having one issue with Slic3r (which in all other regards, seems bloody brilliant!) I want to configure the height of my first layer, and the offset from the Z=0 position seems to be the only way to do it. When I modify the Z-offset parameter, it requires a program restart before it makes any difference, rather than having an immediate effect on the output. Has anyone else noticed this? I'mby majic79 - Slic3r
I get a similar thing printing a 20mm hollow cube (calibration print) - it will print the bottom layer fine, then print the walls, but the top layer fails on the bridging. I've got no machine problems that I can tell (brand new E3d hotend, everything's levelled, thin wall calibration width is spot on, bearings are all sound, motion is good, no missed steps, belt tension is sound, no skipping teetby majic79 - Slic3r
I had a similar leakage issue due to low quality parts (I sourced my own and build my Foldarap from the plans, rather than buying a kit - I think I used a chinese supplier for the nozzle and regretted it) but I managed to alleviate it by wrapping plumbers PTFE tape around the threads (barrel and nozzle) before nipping it up. I also found that the outer surface of the heater block may encourage oxby majic79 - FoldaRap
I calibrated and used it for the first time today - I'm not sure if it will fold up inside the body or not to be honest - the hot end doesn't sit any lower than the huxley/reprappro hotend, so it should still fold and clear the main bar at the topby majic79 - FoldaRap
I think for PLA you do not need a heated bed, but for ABS, it's almost mandatory (I am still new to 3D printing, so I'm guessing here) - I've done my heated bed slightly differently, with an oversized board (FR4 type) on top of the bed plate which forms the build surface. Using ABS, I have no problem starting the print with this method, but if I allow it to cool too rapidly, I get shrinking and cby majic79 - FoldaRap