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Re: Help. Y shift halfway through a print. [SOLVED] - 9 years ago

Slowed the printer down to 40 mm/sec and part came out perfect. thanks again for the help!

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Help. Y shift halfway through a print. - 9 years ago

Quotenophead Is it 1mm or 0.8mm? The former is hard to explain but the latter is a skipped motor step. A skipped motor step means not enough torque for the acceleration. I.e. increase the motor current or reduce the acceleration. Or it can be caused by too much friction if the bearings have seized. You nailed it. it must be a skipped motor step. I'm getting ~0.7mm on the calipers but it's hard

by lions3 - Mendel90

Help. Y shift halfway through a print. [SOLVED] - 9 years ago

I'm curious if i'm missing something here. I'm in the process of printing new parts for my Sturdy90. It's 2 and a half years old and some of the X brackets are showing some fatigue. Anyway, i'm trying to print the X Motor Bracket and half way through the job the print shifts 1mm on the Y axis of the printbed around the same Z height. I thought it was just a bug or my belt was old. So I replac

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Enclosure for Mendel90?? - 10 years ago

For a quick solution I got a cardboard display board and cut it to size to enclosure my Sturdy90. Doesn't look great, but it really showed how much better ABS prints with an enclosure. Recently I took a Laser Cutting class with TechShop. So now I just need to take measurements of my cardboard box and cut an acrylic version.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: 1/2" MDF vs 12mm MDF?; also, sealing MDF? - 10 years ago

QuoteRich K. The original specs for the Mendel90 "sturdy" call for 12mm MDF. Now, I live in the USA and 12mm MDF is a rare bird, but I can easily - and fairly cheaply - get 1/2" (12.7mm) MDF from Home Depot (my nearest supplier). My printed parts set, which I bought on EBay, is set up for 12mm. Has anybody successfully used 1/2" MDF with a printed kit meant for 12mm? What did you have to do to ge

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Switching to ABS - need any tips or tricks - 10 years ago

NumberSix, thanks for the comment. Yeah, my next step is to make an enclosure. I'm thinking of measuring my Sturdy90 and just getting a hardware store to cut some acrylic for me. Then print some connectors to attach it to my MDF Frame. Shouldn't be too bad. Just enclose the front & top and then the center back area. Leaving the 2 recessed areas (melzi/power and the cooling fan) still open.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Switching to ABS - need any tips or tricks - 10 years ago

I'm running 0.3mm for first layer. Ultimaker 2 ships with a glue stick and I've heard multiple times on the IRC channel that a few people have been using glue sticks. Yesterday was my first time actually trying the process. So far, so good.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Switching to ABS - need any tips or tricks - 10 years ago

Just wanted to share that i've completed 2 long prints yesterday and today using UHU glue sticks instead of acetone slurry. Hopefully adhesion will continue to be good because the setup process is much easier.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Switching to ABS - need any tips or tricks - 10 years ago

thanks for the feedback! QuoteBed needs to be around 130C 130c for the bed? Wow. A co-worker had a solidoodle and I remember he was running at 110. So I just assuming I would probably need to run something similar. QuoteMay need to recalibrate your E steps per mm Thanks for reminding me. I completely forgot to update it the firmware for E steps. QuoteThe problem is you kind of need to have bet

by lions3 - Mendel90

Switching to ABS - need any tips or tricks - 10 years ago

This week i've starting to use ABS now that I have a E3D v5 extruder. What suggestions do you guys have for changing slicing settings for ABS versus PLA? I use both Slic3r and Skeinforge. At the moment i'm using my PLA config files and switching out the temps for bed and extruder ( 115c and 230c respectively). And yes, using acetone slurry for the bed. Do you use the fan duct for cooling printe

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: New E3D-V6 hotend - with10% off..... - 10 years ago

I got my E3D V5 a week before they announced V6 I just finished customizing nophead's fan setup for my E3D and printed it last night. Tonight i'll measure the setup and see if the fan should work V6. If so, i'll be happy to post the STL. (Basically I just changed the height of his STL)

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Timelapse of Mendel90 Build... - 10 years ago

i'm so jealous. I setup a timelapse when I built mine a year ago but my device crashed and I lost the video

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Installing e3d Hotend - 10 years ago

QuoteRalph.Hilton The print cooling fan need a different mounting due to the size change. My modified version is at thanks for sharing the fan setup! i'm currently trying to modify a E3D 1.75mm direct drive setup (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:147705) for the Mendel90. The one item I hadn't figured out yet was the cooling fan.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Swapping nozzles - 10 years ago

E3D hotends are supposed to be pretty nice. I just ordered one to try out yesterday.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Update on the E3D All Metal Hotend (Now finally shipping!) [Lots of pictures] - 10 years ago

(Sorry, if this has been asked before.) How are you guys handling changing filament types with this extruder? Do you have a different nozzle for each one? Do you just over heat the existing material and extrude it out with the new material? Anyway, just trying to figure out if I should order multiple nozzles if I want to print PLA, ABS, and anything else....

by lions3 - General

Re: Getting the right dimensions - 10 years ago

I use Slic3r almost exclusively and my parts are normally within 0.1 or 0.2 of the given dimensions. One issue I discovered when I first calibrated my printer is that I over tightened the belts. They shouldn't be loose but they also don't need to be so tight that you could strum them like a guitar. This can cause the motor to skip. If it's not the belts, the next thing I would try is setting the

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Mendel90 print errors with slic3r. Anyone know how to proceed? - 10 years ago

Also if you're going to break up the model. You could just slice it in half vertically. Then lay down the two halves to print. The only issue being a seam when you glue the two finished parts back together.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Melzi Cover - 10 years ago

FYI, I've just posted another STL version to thingiverse. This one has a few vent holes and I've also knocked out the "MENDEL90" text for additional air flow.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: So close... yet so far. - 10 years ago

Just use a voltmeter and check the continuity between those thermistor connections in the photo and the melzi. That way you can rule out a bad connection.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: So close... yet so far. - 10 years ago

Double check the wiring for the extruder thermistor. I had a similar issue with mine originally. Could be a loose wire, a short, or less likely it could be the pin out on the melzi could be different than Nophead's. BUT I think I'm probably the only one with the pinout issue since I sourced my Melzi locally here in the states.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Polypropylene sheet sourcing in the USA - 10 years ago

The polypropylene sheets seem like something you should be able to get at an art and craft store here state side. Maybe at a Michaels or AC Moore. The type of plastic matters less than it flexing with the ribbon cable without sagging.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Melzi Cover - 10 years ago

Quotenophead Might be a good idea to add some ventilation slots in the top and bottom ends. The life of electronics is determined by temperature and the stepper drivers run quite warm at 1.2A. Most other RepRap controllers need heatsinks or fans to run at that. D'oh, my original intention was to add in some slots on the front. I just completely forgot. My next update will include them. Quotenei

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Melzi Cover - 10 years ago

I'm afraid I would probably need to mod the design slightly. Currently I only have section a cut away for the SD card and the USB connection. I don't have a panelolu2 but if I understand the layout correctly there's an adapter board that connects it to the Melzi direction about the USB port. It shouldn't be too hard for me to make an alternative version. I would just need a reference pic or two.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Melzi Cover - 10 years ago

I've been wanting a cover for my Melzi for a while now. So the other week I finally sat down and made one in Solidworks. I've uploaded it to thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:287860) if anyone is interested or wants to give feedback. Please note that i'm still pretty new to this stuff. So i'm sure there's some mistakes with how I build the part. But hey, it's only the 2nd model i've

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: A Promise is a Promise — Ultimaker - 10 years ago

I think they just mean 3mm filament. I know the stuff I buy tends to have a real measurement of 2.85 to 2.9mm.

by lions3 - General

Re: A Promise is a Promise — Ultimaker - 10 years ago

This is what I get when I don't keep up with RepRap. Man, the Ultimaker2 looks great! This is the machine I would love to get my office to buy... Thanks for pointing out that they shared the plans on github. I know what i'm doing to be reading/reviewing tonight. Off hand I wonder how much it would cost in parts to build one of these at home? I've got a few spare things I could use to start me

by lions3 - General

Re: Vapor Smoothing PLA - 10 years ago

what temp did you heat the ethyl acetate up too? How long did you leave the PLA parts in the heated chamber (lol, deep fryer). This sounds like something that might work well for me in the garage. I wonder if you could use an electric hotplate and some kind of jar as you're vapor chamber.

by lions3 - General

Re: Noob Questions - 10 years ago

Are you printing with PLA or ABS? If PLA, heat your bed to 70c. Mix a small amount of PVA glue (in the US - Elmore's Glue) with water. I do 1 part glue to 10 parts water. Mix and brush a thin layer on the bed surface. Let it evaporate completely. Print away. Also don't try to remove the printed part until the bed is below 30c. Or you might use too much force and mess up the bed alignment. If A

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Enclosure for Mendel90?? - 10 years ago

I haven't tried it, but here's one on thingiverse.

by lions3 - Mendel90

Re: Diluted PVA on glass is a good thing! - 10 years ago

FYI, last week on IRC several people were discussing the use of UHU glue sticks for BOTH PLA and ABS plastic. I'll post an update later this week when I have a chance to confirm that it at least works with PLA.

by lions3 - Mendel90