That's fair for a PCB bed heater; I just used it as an example. The code change applies to all heaters, however. The default of being unable to recover 4 degrees on a hotend in 40 seconds is too much in my opinion. If I can't recover 4 degrees in a fraction of that time, it may not be a runaway issue, but something is wrong. Like I said, the right way to really do this would be adding options toby daichiasuka - Mendel90
I like the idea behind the Thermal Run Away code to add a bit of safety, but I was having issues with it. Namely, I warm the bed part of the way before I move the hot end into position to finish the warm up process. Doing so would trigger the a Thermal Run Away since the difference in temperature was greater than the threshold and the bed cannot close the gap fast enough. I could have tweaked theby daichiasuka - Mendel90
Don't use the newest version of Arduino. As you noted, it doesn't work with the old board configuration files that exist for the Melzi. Use 1.0.6 which is available for all OS platforms at this link: Don't forget to copy the Melzi files to the new install for it to work.by daichiasuka - Mendel90
The rules you refer to are general best practices. There are certainly situations where those guidelines can be bent and altered when it makes sense, but they require some background knowledge of why the guideline exists in the first place. In this situation and for the part the OP asked about at the start of this thread, I wouldn't recommend a fan for ABS. I would simply print it slower as we hby daichiasuka - Mendel90
Quotenophead >slowest perimeters are still at over 700 mm/s That is way faster than the printer can move! Typo. 700 mm/min As nice as the Mendel90 is, I will agree that it cannot move nearly that fast.by daichiasuka - Mendel90
Quotedemetris The second solution might work but that means I have to print a dummy object that I don't need and waste plastic. I am sure people here have successfully printed this. I've never had to use a dummy object, but I've never fully understood this logic. Even if I grossly overestimate the cost, a 10 mm x 10 mm x 100 mm column of solid plastic would cost less than $0.50 (USD) in plastic.by daichiasuka - Mendel90
The obvious answer is: slow down. There should be options in your slicer for a minimum print time for layers. Depending on the temperature, the minimum should be 10-15 seconds. You could also just print something else at the same time like another part you need or even just a column.by daichiasuka - Mendel90
@nophead Ahh, damn. I didn't realize you branched it. Looking at yours, we did very similar things. The biggest difference is I made the fan bracket longer, made the fan duct thinner, and removed the hole from the fan duct all to keep the stock fan for the E3D v6. I also changed the X carriage and wades block a bit to flip the connecting bolts and remove the wing nuts. I'll dump it up on github lby daichiasuka - Mendel90
Quotenophead Yes it standard practice to put an M8 washer in the socket. If you are re-printing it there is a version specifically for E3D here: . It will get you back some of the Z height you lost. Also there is a fan duct and bracket in the same branch. Are the updates for this in the scad files as well? I'm asking because I just redesigned the extruder block, X carriage, and the printed fanby daichiasuka - Mendel90
Ahh. That did the trick. Anyway I can get it to connect without manually pushing the button? It's not a big deal, I guess, since I would only need to do it if I power cycled the printer/pi.by daichiasuka - Repetier
I'm trying to setup the server on a Raspberry Pi to control a Mendel 90, but I can't seem to get the server to actually do anything with the printer. It will connect and claim that it is online, but no commands work (manually types or button driven, there is nothing visable in the Printer Log. All temperatures read 0, so I'm assuming that it really isn't connected correctly. I've used the printeby daichiasuka - Repetier
I've had good success with it. It is always within tolerances and consistent throughout. Their support is quick to respond and well informed, as well. being the cheapest place I can find in the US with free fast shipping doesn't hurt either.by daichiasuka - Mendel90
I realize this is complete overkill:by daichiasuka - Mendel90
Interesting. I had been looking into using a Raspberry Pi as a simple front end to the Melzi. I could drop stl files on a network share and the Pi could just pick them up, slice, and go. I wonder if the signal issues could be avoided if I powered the Pi from the 5V rail from the PSU.by daichiasuka - Mendel90
Glad to see I'm not alone. Unless this happens again, I'm considering my issue resolved. It's been printing for the better part of 7 hours now without any problems. demetris - I'm not sure what you are doing differently that you have so many issues with USB connectivity. I haven't had any communication problems before this and the root cause of my issue was a loose power connection. I'd take nby daichiasuka - Mendel90
I think I may have fixed my issue. I'm trying another test print right now and it is ~2.5 hours in printing from SD with no USB connection. I'm embarrassed to say, but I think the root of my issues was that the common from the PSU had worked itself loose from the terminal and was randomly breaking the connection during the print. I squared off the end and reconnected it and the 12V line. I haveby daichiasuka - Mendel90
As of yesterday my printer started stopping randomly during a large print. I have tried this 4 times now, and it is getting frustrating. I am trying to do a print that would run for ~4 hours. On the last 4 attempts, the print stopped after about 1.5 hours, 1 hour, 30 minutes, and 1 hour. I am printing ABS @ 245 with a heated bed @100. I have done this a few times before without issue. The firstby daichiasuka - Mendel90
Possibly. The design would need to change though to do that. Today the brackets are identical with a single mount screw on the bottom right. If you change the width, they will no longer align when mounted to the frame. What I want to do is add another bearing on the inside of the bracket to account for smaller width (~55 mm) spools. The only widths I've seen mentioned are 86 mm and 55 mm. I'llby daichiasuka - Mendel90
Printing at 0.1 takes a fair amount of tuning to get right. I have printed a thing or two at this fine of a resolution, but just to see if I could, really. My default settings are 0.2. In your settings for skeinforge, you will need to change the ratio for carve and infill to print at 0.1. The ratio is layer width to layer height. I believe the default ratio is 1.8 with a layer height of 0.3. Thiby daichiasuka - Mendel90
I printed them and fit them to the back. It is a little bit of a snug fit on the spool, but I think it is supposed to be to stop it from freely rotating. Pictures attached to the thingiverse link above. I received some other material on a much thinner spool. It is 200x72. I'm working on putting that on the same bracket by just adding another bearing to each side.by daichiasuka - Mendel90
6 degrees is the ambient temperature of the room? That seems kinda cold. Couldn't you disconnect the hot end and just connect a meter to the terminals? I wouldn't do this for an extended period of time, but it would give you idea if it is even getting any output.by daichiasuka - Mendel90
I stopped getting emails about replies to this thread for some reason, or I would have responded sooner. I have had the printer for a little over a week and haven't hit the end of a spool yet, so, I'm not sure. nophead: I actually have an stl and parameters for your scad files that will fit the spool at home. I'll upload the files and parameters to thingiverse in a few hours and drop a link heby daichiasuka - Mendel90
One of my main requests I already emailed you about. It was for more translucent colors. I believe your reply was something akin to "we're working on it, but aren't happy with the results." Colors I'm having trouble finding in the US: ivory really light brown (like a sand) dark brown shades of grey - not 20, but 2 or 3 would be nice. translucent colors Let me give some background on what I amby daichiasuka - Mendel90
> You can turn it on and off with M42, as you can > any other unused pin. If I define it in pins.h > Marlin does nothing with it and it can't then be > controlled with M42. That is why it is commented > out. Ahhh... I was reading it backwards. I thought it needed to be defined in pins.h to work and it was driving me nuts last night. Now that I removed it again, it works fine.by daichiasuka - Mendel90
The filament I use (from Matterhackers) is wound very tight on a small spool. The tube is anchored properly, but the tightly would filament twists the whole tube backwards. (see attached) I realize I can't use the same I/O port. I will just grab a spare digital one off the end. Is there anyway to make the onboard LED work? I see it is commented out in the source for some reason. Was it a problby daichiasuka - Mendel90
Let me start by saying that I am very new to 3D printing . I took an interest in it about 6 months ago and have since been bugging my wife to let me buy one. I chose the Mendel90 because of the excellent reviews and recommendations I have seen scattered about the reprap forums. It certainly didn’t hurt that, just as I was starting to seriously look at buying a printer, the new sleek black Dibondby daichiasuka - Mendel90
If they do I would love to know who they are. I found one claiming to be, but they only stocked the rainbow pack. Edit: Faberdashery has an official list of resellers:by daichiasuka - Mendel90
Thank you for the very detailed answer. I didn't think it would be simple, but I wanted to check. What this question really stems from is the availability of the material colors I wanted sourced locally (in the US). I've been through the RepRap wiki page of suppliers for both PLA and ABS and I am having a difficult time finding the colors I want. I can find most of what I am looking for from supby daichiasuka - Mendel90